Side Trips from Malaga

In about an hour, you can drive north from Málaga to the desert hills of El Torcal de Antequera, designated in 1929 as Andalucía’s first natural park. A paved road swishes back and forth through the bone-dry landscape of wind-sculpted limestone hoodoos. Three well-marked trails depart from the visitor center (tel. 95-224-33-24; admission free; daily 10am–7pm, closes at 5pm Nov–Mar). You run a good chance of spotting several of the 30 species of wild orchids that flourish in this harsh landscape, or even seeing an eagle swoop down on a lizard. Guided tours (11€–16€, must be booked in advance) explore more remote areas of the park.

The landscape is so spooky that El Torcal has the dubious distinction of having more UFO sightings than any other place in Spain.

An on-site restaurant has great views from its terrace. Just over 50km (31 miles) north of Málaga, El Torcal is reached by driving A-45 north to Antequera, A-343 south from Antequera, then local road MA-3310 to El Torcal.

Side Trip to Bodegas Bentomiz

A quiet winemaking revolution is going on in the Axarquía hills between Málaga and Nerja, where the production of table wines has resumed after a nearly 150-year hiatus. Bodegas Bentomiz, Finca El Almendro, Pago Cuesta Robano, Sayalonga (tel. 633-049-831), offers winery tours and tastings (with or without lunch) that show the potential of the region’s ancient Moscatel de Alejandría vines to make fresh, bright wines, both sweet and dry. The tour and tasting (17€) is offered Wednesday through Sunday. A tour, tasting, and three-course lunch is 55€, wine pairing an additional 13€. Reservations are essential. WARNING: You’ll have to drive a cliff-edge mountain road with distractingly gorgeous views to get to the winery, so taste judiciously and buy bottles to drink later when the driving is over.