Intur has its main city office 1 block south and 1 block west of the Crowne Plaza Hotel (tel. 505/2222-6610; www.visit-nicaragua.com). It is open daily from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. There's also an office at the airport (tel. 505/2263-3176), which is open Monday to Friday 8 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Orientation

Managua is less a city and more a collection of bland neighborhoods bundled together, separated occasionally by strips of marsh and wasteland. Be prepared to get lost and confused. No matter where you choose to stay in Managua, you will have to jump in a taxi to properly see the highlights as it is so spread out.

The former downtown area hugs the southern shore of Lago Xolotlán and is now known as the Zona Monumental. It sits beside the lakefront in the northwest quadrant of the city. Directly south is the city's hilltop Laguna Tiscapa, and between it and the Zona Monumental is the area with the famous pyramid-shaped Crowne Plaza hotel and the Plaza Shopping Mall. To the east is the budget hotel neighborhood known as Barrio Martha Quezada. South of Laguna Tiscapa, the area becomes more upscale and modern. Here begins the Microcentro, with its five-star hotels and nightlife district -- known as the Zona Rosa. Managua's best and safest market, Mercado Roberto Huembes, lies 2km (1 1/4 miles) east of the Microcentro. The city's more upscale neighborhoods are known as Los Robles, Altamira, Bolonia, and San Juan. Farther south, you'll find the upscale mall Galerías Santo Domingo and the restaurant zone known as Zona Viva.

Carretera Panamericana (the Pan-American Highway) crosses Managua in a horseshoe shape and is known as Carretera Masaya on its southeast approach and Carretera Norte in the northeast. The cloud-billowing Masaya volcano appears on the right as you drive south out of the city.

Street Maps -- If you plan on hanging around Managua, you're going to need a good map. The government organization INETER (tel. 505/2249-2746; www.ineter.gob.ni) produces the best street map of Managua (it's the best city map of any for Nicaragua, for that matter). Maps can be purchased at their main office opposite the Hospital Metrópoli Xolotlán and cost C80. The tourism board Intur (tel. 505/2222-6610; www.visit-nicaragua.com) also provides free maps, but these seem to feature only the establishments that are advertised. The main office is located 1 block south and 1 block west of the Crowne Plaza Hotel.

Where the Streets Have No Name: Getting Around in Managua

Managua is a city that has no street names or numbers, that uses as reference points landmarks that don't exist anymore, and that insists on using a unit of measurement (the vara) not recognized anywhere else. The city also doesn't use the fundamental cardinal points north, east, or west (south is okay, though). To make it worse, some places have two names. It is a wonder people get anywhere!

And yet somehow, they do. Once you master the old indigenous-colonial positioning system, you can appreciate its convoluted logic. Here are some tips on how to "address" the problem.

Landmarks are all-important, whether one exists or not. Most addresses start with a well-known building, roundabout, or monument, followed by how many blocks or varas in whatever direction. (A vara is an old Spanish unit of measurement that equals .8m/2 1/2 ft.)

North is al lago (toward the lake). East is arriba (referring to the rising sun). West is abajo (referring to the setting sun). And the South is al sur. A typical example of an address using these terms looks like this: Donde fue la Vicky, 4 cuadras al lago, 30 vrs arriba. This translates as "from where Vicky was, 4 blocks north and 20 varas east." (Incidentally, Vicky used to be a bar now long closed.)

Other important words to remember are cuadra (block), al frente (in front of), and contiguo a (beside). Casa esquinera means the corner house.

Getting There

By Plane

The small, modern Augusto C Sandino International Airport (MGA; tel. 505/2233-1624; www.eaai.com.ni), is 11km (6 3/4 miles) east of Managua. A taxi from the airport to the city center costs C400, though you can save some money by walking across the roadway in front and hailing an ordinary city cab, which should cost C200. Always negotiate before jumping in. Laden with luggage and in the midday sun, it is easier and safer to pay the premium for the official airport taxis. Frequent city-bound buses pass in front of the airport, but again, you must cross the busy street to hail one, as none enter the airport grounds.

By International Bus

Managua has no central bus station, and each international bus company has its own departure points in Barrio Martha Quezada. Tica Bus, 2 blocks east of the Antiguo Cine Dorado (tel. 505/2222-6094 or 505/2222-3031; www.ticabus.com), has the most intercity routes and goes as far as Mexico City.

King Quality/Cruceros del Golfo, opposite Tica Bus (tel. 505/2228-1454; www.kingqualityca.com), has a reputation for being more comfortable and also provides meals.

Trans Nica, 300m (984 ft.) north of Rotonda Metrocentro (tel. 505/2277-2104; www.transnica.com), services El Salvador and Costa Rica. Central Line, (tel. 505/2254-5431) next to King Quality goes south to San José in Costa Rica

By Domestic Bus

To travel from Managua to other Nicaraguan cities, you must first get your head around the multiple stations, markets, and meeting points that dot each city, each serving as a transport hub for a particular direction.

Mercado Roberto Huembes (no phone) serves the south, primarily Masaya, Granada, Rivas, San Juan del Sur, and the Cost Rican border. It is in the southeast of the city, on Pista Portezuelo, halfway between Rotonda Centroamérica and Semáforos de Rubenia. A taxi to this terminal from the Metrocentro should not cost more than C120. Huembes is the biggest and busiest terminal in the city. Make sure you get off at the bus-stop side of the market, known as parada de los buses. Be aware that you will be swamped by touts as soon as you get out of your taxi, and it is normal for them to grab your stuff and run to whatever bus they want to put you on. Always check that the one you get put on truly is the next one leaving or the expreso (an express service with fewer stops) by asking around.

Buses to the north and east depart from Mercado Mayoreo (tel. 505/2233-4729) in the far eastern fringes of the city, on Avenida de Circunvalación Mercado Mayor. Here, you can get buses to Estelí, Matagalpa, Jinotega, and San Carlos. A taxi to the market should not cost more than C160 from the city center, or you can take the urban bus Ruta 102 from Barrio Martha Quezada. Expresos del Norte (tel. 505/2233-4729) is one of the better bus companies, with a punctual schedule and good-condition expreso buses that service the northern part of the country.

Mercado Israel Lewites (tel. 505/2265-2152), sometimes referred to as El Boer, takes you west and northwest to León, Chinandega, and the Honduran border. This chaotic place is located in the western outskirts of the city on Avenida Heroes de Batahola, 1km (1/2 mile) south of the American embassy. A taxi to the market should not cost more than C100 from the city center.

The UCA is the city's biggest university and also a convenient spot to jump on an express minibus or microbus to Masaya and Granada. It is located 1 block from the Rotonda Metro Centro. Microbuses depart when full (every 20 minutes or so), from 6 am to 9pm.

Getting Around

By Bus

Though Managua's urbano bus system is cheap and frequent, it has a woeful reputation for pickpockets and robberies, and well-dressed foreigners are said to be especially targeted. In general, if you stick to the city center and take buses during daylight hours, you should be okay. The buses can also be very overcrowded during rush hour, as they are the only form of public city transportation. Buses come along every 10 minutes and charge a fare of C7.

You can get on the bus only at designated bus stops. Following are the most convenient routes: Urbano 109 travels from Plaza de la República to Mercado Roberto Huembes, passing by Plaza Inter. Urbano 110 goes from Mercado Israel Lewites (Boer) to Mercado Mayoreo, passing La UCA, Metrocentro, Rotonda de Centroamérica, Mercado Huembes, and Mercado Iván Montenegro. Urbano 116 starts at the Montoya statue and passes Plaza Inter and Mercado Oriental before ending at Rotonda Bello Horizonte. Urbano 118 goes from Parque Las Piedrecitas to Mercado Mayoreo, passing Mercado Israel Lewites (Boer), Rotonda El Güegüense, Plaza Inter, and Mercado Oriental. Urbano 119 travels from Lindavista to Mercado Huembes, passing Rotonda El Güegüense and La UCA.

By Taxi

Don't worry -- cabs will honk at you before you even see them. Even occupancy won't stop them from stopping, and strangers often share taxis (this is a dangerous practice at night). Offer the taxi driver extra cash if you want to travel alone. Taxis are not metered, so it is imperative that you agree on a price before boarding and make sure you determine whether the amount quoted is per person or for the group. Fares go up 50% after dark. Because of Managua's puzzling address system, you will find yourself over-dependent on drivers to get you around. Always try to have the address of your hotel in Spanish. Most hotels will recommend their own favored taxi companies, but many may charge a premium rate. Hotel taxis generally do not pick up strangers on the way to your destination. If you do find a good, reliable taxi driver (and there are many), take his telephone number. Many will gladly show you around the city for a flat day rate of approximately C1,000.

By Car

Driving in Managua is like getting lost in a huge bowl of noodle soup -- the streets are that messy and intertwined. That said, traffic is pretty light, and the roads in the city center are in fairly good condition. Just be warned, even the most advanced GPS system will still get you lost. You should get a car in this city only if you intend to live here or plan a tour of the country.

On Foot

Unless you are a marathon walker, do not mind the heat, and are in absolutely no rush, don't plan on getting around Managua on foot. This city is frustrating for walkers as it is so spread out; in addition, the streets lack charm and, even worse, names. What may hurt the most are the frequent missing manhole covers. If you do insist on getting by on foot, keep your eyes peeled, or you might risk serious injury.

Fast Facts

ATMs -- ATMs are located outside most banks, in malls and service stations, and at the airport. Most banks will also change dollars to córdobas. There are bank branches all over the city, in particular, around Plaza España (also known as Rotonda El Güegüense), along with casual street changers (known as coyotes) who actually give better rates and a faster service with no passport required. Banpro (Edificio Malaga, Plaza España; tel. 505/2266-0069) and Bancentro, 1 block south of Rotonda El Güegüense (tel. 505/2268-5013), are two conveniently located banks.

Drugstores -- Farmacia 24 Horas, 150m (492 ft.) east of Rotonda Bello Horizonte (tel. 505/2240-06233), is good for any late-night pharmacy emergencies. Farmacia 5 Estrellas, 3 1/2 blocks north of Semáforo El Colonial (tel. 505/2248-8026), is an option closer to the center.

Emergencies -- The main headquarters of the Policía Nacional (tel. 505/2277-4130) are situated in the Edificio Faustino Ruiz, Plaza del Sol. For emergencies, dial tel. 118.

Hospitals -- Hospital Metropolitano Vivian Pellas (Carretera Masaya Km 9.7; tel. 505/2255-6900; www.metropolitano.com.ni) is the city's most modern (it was built in 2004) and best-equipped hospital. Hospital Bautista, 2 blocks south of Casa RMA (Barrio Largaespada; tel. 505/2249-7070), also has a good reputation.

Internet -- Internet cafes are dotted all around the city, but if you have trouble locating one, just head to any of the malls that dot the city. iMac Center, 1 block east and 1/2 block south of the Semáforo UCA (tel. 505/2270-5918), offers cheap internet for C30 an hour. It is open daily from 8am to 8pm. Cyber City, in front of UCA (tel. 505/2604-7416), is another good place, as is the modern and comfortable Cyber, on the ground floor of Plaza Inter. They both charge C40 an hour and are open daily 10am to 10pm. Laundry -- Most hotels and hostels will arrange laundry service for a price. Dryclean USA (tel. 505/2270-1107) has branches all over the city. One is close to Plaza Bolonia, behind Santa Fe Steakhouse. Another is at Carretera Masaya Km 3.5.

Post Office -- The grandly titled main post office, Palacio de Correos (tel. 505/2222-2048), is 2 blocks west of the Plaza de la República in the former Enitel building. Here, you'll also find an excellent philatelist store.

Restrooms -- There are no public restrooms except in malls. Restaurants should allow you to use their bathrooms if you ask nicely. If you find yourself needing a restroom while in the Zona Monumental, head to the Centro Cultural Managua. There are public bathrooms on the second floor.

Traveler's Checks -- Exchange all traveler's checks in Managua if you can, as there are very few places outside the city that will change these checks. There's an American Express 1 block east of Rotonda El Güegüense (tel. 505/2266-4050). Multicambios, 1/2 block east of Rotonda El Güegüense (tel. 505/2266-8407), also changes traveler's checks.

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