Getting There & Away -- To visit Mandu, most people travel via Indore, which is connected to important regional centers by daily flights and regular train services. The airport (tel. 0731/262-0819 or -0758) is 8km (5 miles) out of the center. The train trip from Bhopal lasts 6 hours; the Intercity Express from Delhi takes 13 hours; and the Avantika Express from Mumbai takes 15 hours. A far more convenient option is to base yourself in the small town of Maheshwar, 56km (35 miles) from Mandu, and about 2 hours by road from Indore. To get to Mandu (or Maheshwar) from Indore, hire a taxi through President Travels (Hotel President, 163 R.N.T. Rd.; tel. 0731/252-8866); you can arrange a pickup at the airport/station, and drive straight to Mandu (around Rs 2,500 for an A/C car); M. P. Tourism also arranges cars. If you're traveling on the cheap, there's a long, tiring bus trip to Mandu.

Visitor Information -- Madhya Pradesh Tourism has an office on the ground floor of Jhabua Tower, R.N.T. Road, in Indore (tel. 0731/252-8653; mptourismind@airtelbroadband.in; Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, closed Sun and second and third Sat of the month). In Mandu, ask the manager at MPSTDC-run Malwa Resort (tel. 07292/26-3235) for assistance.

Getting Around -- Indore has plenty of taxis and auto-rickshaws; ask the driver to use his meter. In Mandu, you can hire a bicycle, or ride on the back of a motorcycle with a local guide as your driver.