Planning a trip to Marajo

Getting There -- The only reason to go to Marajó is to stay at one of the hotel fazendas. Though there are two small towns -- Selvaterra and Soure -- close together on the eastern shore of the island, they are not in themselves worth a long ferry ride. (It's worth spending 1 night in Soure to get a feel for the local culture and community and enjoy a day at the beach, Marajó-style.) Most of the fazendas will include transportation in your package, which you should arrange ahead of time either with the hotel fazenda or through a tour agency such as Amazon Star Turismo, Rua Henrique Gurjão 236 (tel. 091/3241-8624; www.amazonstar.com.br).

Ferries -- There's a Belém-Selvaterra passenger ferry, run by Araparí Navegação, Rua Siquiera Mendes 120 (tel. 091/3242-1570), departing from Portão 10 (downstream of the Estação das Docas). Departures are Monday through Saturday at 6:30am and 2:30pm, Sundays at 10am. The trip takes 3 to 4 hours and costs R$15. To reach Soure from the ferry dock in Camará is about a 30-minute bus ride (R$7) and then a 5-minute ferry ride (free for passengers). Competition for the public bus is fierce; better to have your transport arranged beforehand with a lodge or pousada.