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The tabby cat dozing by the entrance has the right idea; there is a kind of hush about this bijou riad, where banana fronds shade the courtyard. Rooms reveal Moroccan flourishes such as Atlas carpets, buffed tadelakt (decorative plaster), and wood ceilings. Anything you want, just ask the friendly staff—from a pre-dinner hammam to a Med-style feast on the roof terrace by candlelight.