Expect a heartfelt welcome at this homely riad, squeezed down a quiet alley in an authentic part of town near Bab Aylen. Framing a whitewashed courtyard with a plunge pool, each of the open-plan rooms has its own flair—from star-lit Dawiya with its four-poster bed, tadelakt fireplace, and private patio to ethnic-style Cheikh. Book a hammam, or learn tagine tricks with free cookery classes.