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Down a twisty derb (alley) off Rahba Qedima and behind a heavy wooden door, you’ll find this 280-year-old riad. Relax in tropical gardens full of swaying palms, cypress trees, babbling fountains, and dozing turtles. The illusion is complete in artfully designed rooms—some with four-poster boat beds, others with ornately carved ceilings and mosaic-tiled bathrooms. Breakfast is served in the vaulted surrounds of a former hammam.