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Near Ali Ben Youssef Medersa, this tiny riad is a delight with light-filled, citrus-hued rooms overlooking a serene patio. But it's the service that takes it to another level: owner Francis pleases youngsters with magic tricks and grown-ups with argan-oil massages, while his partner Christine will help you get your bearings. Raja rustles up superb Moroccan food (dinner 200dh). Check the website for courses from calligraphy to belly dancing.