Planning a trip to Martha's Vineyard

Getting Around

The down-island towns of Vineyard Haven, Oak Bluffs, and Edgartown are fairly compact, and if your inn is located in the heart of one of these small towns, you will be within walking distance of shopping, beaches, and attractions in town. Frequent shuttle buses can whisk you to the other down-island towns and beaches in 5 to 15 minutes. To explore the up-island towns, you will need to bike; it's possible to tour the entire island -- 60-some-odd miles -- in 1 day. In season you can also take the shuttle bus up-island. Otherwise you will have to take a cab.

By Bicycle

You shouldn’t leave without exploring the Vineyard on two wheels, even if only for a couple of hours. There’s a little of everything for cyclists, from paved paths to hilly country roads, and you don’t have to be an expert rider to enjoy yourself. Plus, biking is a relatively hassle-free way to get around the island.

What’s unique about biking on Martha’s Vineyard is that you’ll find not only the smooth, well-maintained paths indigenous to the Cape, but also long stretches of road with virtually no traffic that, while rough in spots, pass through breathtaking country landscapes with sweeping ocean views. It is only a few miles but a very scenic ride between Vineyard Haven and Oak Bluffs. A few more miles gets you to Edgartown along a nice flat bike path.

Bike rental operations are ubiquitous near the ferry landings in Vineyard Haven and Oak Bluffs, and there are also a few outfits in Edgartown. Bike rentals cost about $28 to $38 a day. In Vineyard Haven, try Martha’s Bike Rentals, Lagoon Pond Road (tel. 800/559-0312 or 508/693-6593). In Oak Bluffs, there’s Anderson’s, Circuit Avenue Extension (tel. 508/693-9346), which rents bikes only; and Sun ‘n’ Fun, 26 Lake Ave. (tel. 508/693-5457). In Edgartown you’ll find bikes at R. W. Cutler Edgartown Bike Rentals, 1 Main St. (tel. 800/627-2763); and Wheel Happy, with two locations, at 204 Upper Main St. and 8 S. Water St., both in Edgartown (tel. 508/627-5928).

The chamber of commerce has a great bike map available at its office on Beach Road, in Vineyard Haven.

By Moped
The number of accidents involving mopeds seems to rise every year, and many islanders are opposed to these vehicles. If you rent one, be aware they are considered quite dangerous on the island’s busy, narrow, winding, sandy roads. Moped renting is banned in Edgartown, and there is a movement to ban mopeds on the island entirely. To rent a moped, try Adventure Rentals, Beach Road (tel. 508/693-1959). In Oak Bluffs, there’s Sun ‘n’ Fun, 26 Lake Ave. (tel. 508/693-5457).

By Car

If you’re coming to the Vineyard for a few days and you’re going to stick to the down-island towns, it’s best to leave your car at home—traffic and parking can be brutal in summer. If you’re staying longer or want to explore up-island, bring your car or rent one on the island (my favorite way to tour the Vineyard is by Jeep). Keep in mind that car rental rates soar during peak season and gas is expensive. All the national car rental chains have desks at the airport and offices in Vineyard Haven and Oak Bluffs. Local agencies also operate out of all three port towns; in Vineyard Haven, you’ll find Adventure Rentals, Beach Road (tel. 508/693-1959), where a regular car costs about $140 per day; a Jeep will run you about $199 to $249 per day in season. In Edgartown, try AAA Island Rentals, 31 Circuit Ave. (tel. 508/627-6800); they’re also at Five Corners in Vineyard Haven (tel. 508/696-5300).

By Shuttle Bus & Trolley

The Martha’s Vineyard Regional Transit Authority (tel. 508/693-9440) operates shuttle buses year-round on about a dozen routes around the island. The buses, which are white with purple logos, cost about $2 to $5 depending on distance. The formula is $1 per town. For example, Vineyard Haven to Oak Bluffs is $2, but Vineyard Haven to Edgartown (passing through Oak Bluffs) is $3. A 1-day pass is $7, and a 3-day pass is $15. The main down-island stops are Vineyard Haven (near the ferry terminal), Oak Bluffs (near the Civil War statue, in Ocean Park), and Edgartown (Church Street, near the Old Whaling Church). From late June to early September, they run frequently—from 6am to midnight, every 15 minutes or half-hour. Hours are reduced in spring and fall.

In Edgartown, there’s a Downtown Shuttle that circles throughout town, and South Beach buses circle that head out to South Beach every 20 minutes in season. Both stop at the free parking lots just north of the town center, which means you won’t waste your time circling downtown Edgartown vainly searching for a parking spot. Buses also go out to Aquinnah year-round (via the airport, West Tisbury, and Chilmark), leaving every couple of hours from down-island towns and looping about every hour through up-island towns. The trip from one of the down island towns to Aquinnah is $5 to $6.25, depending on which town.

By Taxi

Upon arrival, you’ll find taxis at all ferry terminals and at the airport, and there are permanent taxi stands in Oak Bluffs (at the Flying Horses Carousel) and Edgartown (next to the Town Wharf). Most taxi outfits operate cars as well as vans for larger groups and travelers with bikes. Cab companies on the island include AdamCab (tel. 800/360-8629 or 508/627-4462), Martha’s Vineyard Taxi (tel. 508/693-8660), and Atlantic Taxi (tel. 508/693-7110). Rates from town to town in summer are generally flat fees based on where you’re headed and the number of passengers on board. A trip from Vineyard Haven to Edgartown would probably cost around $23 for two people. Late-night revelers should keep in mind that rates double after midnight until 7am.

The Chappaquiddick Ferry

The On-Time ferry (tel. 508/627-9427) runs the 5-minute trip from Memorial Wharf, on Dock Street in Edgartown, to Chappaquiddick Island (a distance of about 500 ft.) from June to mid-October daily, every 5 minutes from 6:45am to midnight. Passengers, bikes, mopeds, dogs, and cars (3 at a time) are all welcome. A round-trip is $3 per person, $10 for one car/one driver, $6 for one bike/one person.

Organized Tours
For a 2 1/2-hour bus tour of the island, call Martha’s Vineyard Sightseeing Bus Tours (tel. 508/627-8687). The buses are stationed at the ferry terminals in Vineyard Haven and Oak Bluffs from late May to the end of September. Tours are $33 per person.

Getting There

Arriving By Ferry

Most visitors take the ferry service connecting the Vineyard and the mainland. If you're traveling via car or bus, you will most likely catch the ferry from Woods Hole, in the town of Falmouth, on Cape Cod; however, boats do run from Falmouth Inner Harbor, Hyannis, New Bedford, Rhode Island, and Nantucket. On weekends in season, the Steamship Authority ferries make more than 25 trips a day to Martha's Vineyard from Woods Hole (two other companies provide an additional 12 passenger ferries a day from Falmouth Inner Harbor). Schedules are available from the Martha's Vineyard Chamber of Commerce (tel. 508/693-0085; fax 508/693-7589) or the Steamship Authority.
Tip: If you’re interested in visiting both Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket in one day trip (admittedly, that’s a very full day where you’ll only scratch the surface of either island), check out Hy-Line Cruises’ Around the Sound excursions from Hyannis.

Car Ferries
The state-run Steamship Authority runs the show in Woods Hole (tel. 508/477-8600 early Apr to early Sept, daily 8am–5pm, or 508/693-9130 daily 8am–5pm), with about 20 crossings a day in season. It maintains the only year-round ferries to Martha’s Vineyard and the only ferries that accommodate cars in addition to passengers. The large ferries make the 45-minute trip to Vineyard Haven year-round; some boats go to Oak Bluffs from late May to late October (call for seasonal schedules). If you’re bringing your car over to the island, plan to get to the Woods Hole terminal at least 30 minutes before your scheduled departure.

Many people prefer to leave their cars on the mainland, take the ferry (often with their bikes), and then rent a car, Jeep, or bicycle on the island. You can park your car at the Woods Hole lot (always full in the summer) or at one of many lots in Falmouth and Bourne that absorb the overflow of cars during the summer months; parking is $10 to $15 per day, depending on the time of year. Plan to arrive at the parking lots in Falmouth at least an hour before sailing time. Free shuttle buses (some equipped for bikes) run regularly from the outlying lots to the Woods Hole ferry terminal.

The cost of a round-trip car passage from April through October is $137 to $157 (depending on the size of your car); in the off season, it drops to $87 to $107. On top of that, each passenger needs to pay a round-trip fare of $17 adults and $9 children 5 to 12. (Kids 4 and under ride free.) Bikes add an extra $8 round-trip. You do not need a reservation on the ferry if you’re traveling without a car. 

Note: The Steamship Authority charges different rates for cars of different lengths. You will need to specify the make and model of your car when you place your reservation.

Once you are aboard the ferry, you have won the right to feel relieved and relaxed. Now your vacation can begin. Ferries are equipped with bathrooms and snack bars. Your fellow passengers will be a gaggle of kids, dogs, and happy-looking travelers.

Passenger Ferries

Passengers without cars can ride the car ferry from Woods Hole. From Falmouth, the passenger-only Island Queen at Falmouth Inner Harbor (tel. 508/548-4800) makes a 35-minute crossing to Oak Bluffs, late May to mid-October. The round-trip fare is $22 for adults, $12 for kids 12 and under, and an extra $8 for bikes. No reservations are needed. Parking will run you $15 per calendar day. Credit cards are not accepted. Tip: It pays to buy a round-trip ticket on the Island Queen; it’s cheaper than two one-way tickets. The Falmouth–Edgartown Ferry Service, 278 Scranton Ave. (tel. 508/548-9400), operates a 1-hour passenger ferry, called the Pied Piper, from Falmouth Inner Harbor to Edgartown. The boat runs from late May to mid-October, and reservations are required. Round-trip fares are $60 for adults and $40 for kids 6 to 12. Bicycles are $10 round-trip. There are several options for parking. Parking is $20 for the day; $25 for overnight.

From Hyannis, the traditional Hy-Line ferry runs daily from Ocean Street Dock (tel. 800/492-8082), to Oak Bluffs, late May through mid-October. Trip time is about 1 hour and 40 minutes; round-trip costs $59 for adults; $39 for kids 5 to 12 ($14 round-trip for bikes). Parking at the Hy-Line lot is $25 per calendar day in season (spring and fall $20, $8–$12 off-season).

From New Bedford, Massachusetts, a fast 1-hour ferry travels to Martha’s Vineyard six times a day in season (late May–Oct). The fare is $70 round-trip for adults; $40 round-trip for kids 12 and under. Contact Seastreak Martha’s Vineyard for details (tel. 866/683-3779).

From North Kingstown, Rhode Island, to Oak Bluffs, Vineyard Fast Ferry (tel. 401/295-4040) runs its high-speed catamaran Millennium daily from mid-June through October. The trip takes 90 minutes. Round-trip rates are $89 to $104 for adults, $66 to $81 kids 4 to 12, $16 bikes. Parking next to the ferry port is $10 per calendar day.

From New York City and New Jersey to Oak Bluffs, Seastreak Martha’s Vineyard (tel. 866/683-3779) runs a high-speed catamaran from late May to mid-October. Round-trip fares are $240 to $310 adults, $135 to $310 children, $30 bikes. The catamaran leaves Thursdays and Fridays from New York and takes 6 1/2 hours from New York to Oak Bluffs. The ferry makes the return trip Sundays, Mondays, and Tuesdays.

By Air

You can fly into Martha’s Vineyard Airport, also known as Dukes County Airport (tel. 508/693-7022), in West Tisbury, about 5 miles outside Edgartown. Cape Air/Nantucket Airlines (tel. 800/352-0714) connects the island year-round with Boston (trip time 34 min., about $187 one-way); Hyannis (trip time 20 min.; $49 one-way); Nantucket (15 min.; $49 one-way); Providence RI (trip time 25 min.; $124 one-way); and New Bedford MA (trip time 20 min.; $49 one-way). US Airways (tel. 800/428-4322) flies from Boston for about $304 round-trip and also has seasonal weekend service from LaGuardia Airport, in New York City (trip time 1 1/4 hour), which costs approximately $400 round-trip.

By Bus

Peter Pan Bus Lines (tel. 888/751-8800 or 508/548-7588) connects the Woods Hole ferry port with South Station and Logan Airport in Boston, as well as with New York City and Providence, Rhode Island. (To get to Falmouth Inner Harbor instead, passengers disembark at the Falmouth Bus Station and take a taxi to the harbor or, in summer, a free shuttle bus that gets you a short walk away.) The trip from South Station takes about 1 hour and 35 minutes and costs about $40 one-way; from Logan Airport, the cost is $30 one-way; from Providence, the 2 1/2-hour trip to Woods Hole costs $30 one-way; from New York, the bus trip takes about 6 hours and costs approximately $74 one-way. The trip from South Station to Woods Hole takes about 1 hour and 35 minutes and costs about $40 one-way; from Logan Airport, the cost is $30 one-way; from Providence, the 2 1/2-hour trip to Woods Hole costs $30 one-way; from New York, the bus trip takes about 6 hours and costs approximately $74 one-way. After arriving in Woods Hole, bus passengers then need to buy tickets for the Steamship Authority ferry.

Both Peter Pan and Plymouth-Brockton bus lines go from South Station and Logan to Hyannis.

By Limo

Falmouth Taxi (tel. 508/548-3100) also runs limo service from Boston and the airport. It charges $165 plus a gratuity.

Plan Ahead

During the summer, you’ll most definitely need a reservation to bring your car on the ferry to Martha’s Vineyard. Word to the wise: You must reserve months in advance to secure a spot. Contact the Steamship Authority at www.steamshipauthority.com, or by calling tel. 508/693-9130.