On arguably the most romantic square in Puglia, Ristorante ai Portici, 6 Piazza Maria Immacolata (tel. 080-4801702), may not be for everyone. Vegetarians would flee in horror; but gourmets from around the world hail it for its authentic cuisine, perhaps the most authentic of any restaurant in the south of Italy. We hesitate to recommend the specialty, but gnomarelli has its devotees. Strictly for fans of organ meats, the dish consists of bits of lung, heart, liver, or spleen bound in intestines from a pig. It's all part of the arrosto misto of mixed roasts that features tender and delectable baby lamb chops and regional sausage. Gourmets finish all this carnivore consumption with a plate of fresh vegetables that they dip in salt (only tourists, we are told, dip the veggies in olive oil). Since Ristorante ai Portici keeps no set hours, and some days might not be open at all, we strongly advise you to call ahead.

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