Matera’s caves don’t get any more inviting than these snug, white-walled rooms hung with old cooking implements and filled with cozy, gingham-topped tables. The homey setting is suited for such local dishes as purea di fave con cicorielle di campo (broad bean puree with chicory) or cavatelli with chickpea puree, arugula, porcini mushrooms, and tomatoes. Lamb and veal are grilled to perfection, and pizzas emerge from a wood oven at the back of the cave.