Originally built in 1504 when Japan was in the throes of continuing and bloody civil wars, Matsumoto Castle is a fine specimen of a feudal castle with a 400-year-old donjon that's the oldest existing keep in the country. Surrounded by a moat with ducks and white swans and lined with willow and cherry trees, the outside walls of the donjon are black, earning the place the nickname of Karasu-jo, or Crow Castle. Although it appears to have five stories from the outside, it's actually a six-story structure, with a secret floor that may have hidden warriors. It's rather small as castles go, but English-speaking Goodwill Guides stand ready daily to provide free, 1-hour tours outlining the castle's history and architectural features. Take your shoes off at the entrance and walk in stocking feet over worn wooden floors and up steep and narrow steps until you finally reach the sixth floor, from which you have a nice view of the city. This would have served as the daimyo's (feudal lord's) headquarters in case of enemy attack, while the fifth floor, with views in all directions, was where the generals would have conferred during war. Although the Ishikawa clan rebuilt the castle in 1593 in anticipation of gun warfare (guns were introduced to Japan in 1543) with many arrow and gun slots and walls thick enough to withstand bullets, the castle was never attacked because the civil wars ended with the coming of the Edo Period (1603-1867). Nevertheless, guns were manufactured in Japan throughout the Edo Period, and on display inside the castle are approximately 370 matchlocks, armor, and other arms manufactured in Japan from 1543 to the late Edo Era, providing interesting insight into how the import was adapted for domestic use. With war no longer a threat, a moon-viewing room was added to the castle in 1635.

Included in your castle ticket is admission to the Matsumoto City Museum (tel. 0263/32-0133) next to the castle. This rather eclectic museum has displays relating to archaeology, history, Matsumoto's many festivals (including the summer Tanabata Festival and a fertility festival held in Sept featuring, well, phalluses), and folklore of the surrounding region, including samurai armor, an ornate palanquin, and farming equipment. You can tour both castle and museum in about 90 minutes.