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On the southern shoulder of Haleakala is Ulupalakua Ranch, a 20,000-acre spread once owned by the legendary sea captain James Makee, celebrated in the Hawaiian song and dance “Hula O Makee.” Wounded in a Honolulu waterfront brawl in 1843, Makee moved to Maui and bought Ulupalakua. He renamed it Rose Ranch, planted sugar as a cash crop, and grew rich. Still in operation, the ranch is now home to Maui’s only winery, established in 1974 by Napa vintner Emil Tedeschi, who began growing California and European grapes here and produces serious still and sparkling wines, plus a silly wine made of pineapple juice. The grounds are the perfect place for a picnic. Settle under the sprawling camphor tree, pop the cork on a blanc de blanc, and toast your good fortune. Twice a week the staff offers historic tasting tours through the cellar, landscaped grounds, and old jail.