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It’s hard to say which is better at this beloved neighborhood restaurant—the delicious Vietnamese cuisine or the hilarious waiters who make wisecracks while taking your order. Whatever you order—the steamed opakapaka with ginger and garlic, one of a dozen soups, the catfish simmering in a clay pot, or the fragrant lemongrass curry—you’ll notice the freshness of the flavors. Owner Jennifer Nguyen grows many of her own vegetables and herbs and even sprouts her own mung beans. My favorites are the Buddha rolls dunked in spicy peanut sauce and the Vietnamese “burritos.” You make the latter tableside—tricky at first, but fun.