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Chef Alan Wong, one of the state’s most beloved restaurateurs, ate his way through Singapore and South America before opening Amasia, his newest restaurant, at the opulent Grand Wailea. The result: a dizzying and decadent international experience. A river runs through the cool, cavernous dining room, which retains the mysterious aura of a traditional Japanese teahouse. Rocks imported from Mount Fuji in Japan stand sentry around the koi pond at the entrance. The menu is exhaustive but dishes are small, in the tradition of Spanish tapas bars and Japanese izakayas. Order several plates to share. Don’t be shy; try the spicy, crispy whole Dungeness crab, the Kona kampachi sashimi with jalapeño discs, and the uni shot—a tantalizing sliver of sea urchin doused in leche de tigre, a Peruvian aphrodisiac. Do not miss dessert. The pineapple shave ice (borrowed from Wong’s Honolulu restaurant) is a delectable combination of panna cotta, coconut tapioca, and frozen pineapple shavings that melt on your tongue. It’s heavenly, as is haupia sorbet: ice cream shaped like a coconut and ensconced in a chocolate shell.