Chef Gerard Reversade has called Hawaii home for nearly 4 decades, but his accent remains firmly French. His charming residence-turned-restaurant beneath the Plantation Inn in Lahaina is equally authentic. Chilled cucumber soup transcends simplicity with goat cheese and fresh dill. The roasted opakapaka served with fennel fondue and spiked with hints of orange, star anise, and ginger is stellar, as are the scallops au gratin and rack of lamb. Don’t miss the venison ragout (with Jamaican pepper, chestnuts, pearl onions, and pasta) if you spot it on the menu; you’ll not only enjoy a savory dish but also be doing your part to help remove invasive axis deer from the islands. Chef Reversade is every bit as much of a baker as a chef, and the savory dishes that incorporate pastry—such as the shiitake and oyster mushroom appetizer—are delights. The dessert menu ($12) has a half-dozen excellent offerings, including a marvelous millefeuille with Tahitian vanilla ice cream, plus housemade sorbets.