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Chef Gerard Reversade has called Hawaii home for nearly 4 decades, but his French accent hasn’t lost one cédille. His charming residence-turned-restaurant beneath the Plantation Inn in Lahaina is equally authentic. I never would’ve imagined that a simple chilled cucumber soup could be transcendent—but this one is, its delicacy amplified by goat cheese and fresh dill. The roasted opakapaka served with fennel fondue and spiked with hints of orange and ginger is stellar, as is the grilled Hawaiian filet with salsify au gratin. Chef Reversade is every bit as much of a baker as a chef, and the savory dishes that incorporate pastry—such as the Hamakua mushroom appetizer—are delights. The dessert menu has a half-dozen excellent offerings, including a marvelous millefeuille and chocolate mousse with pistachio ice cream.