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Three decades ago Bev Gannon, one of the pioneering chefs of Hawaii Regional Cuisine, brought her gourmet comfort food to this renovated plantation store in rural Haliimaile. It was a gamble then; now it’s one of the island’s most beloved restaurants. Menu items reflect island cuisine with hints of Texas, from which Gannon hails. The Asian duck tostada, for example, pairs shredded duck with ginger chili dressing, jicama, and toasted macadamia nuts in a crispy lumpia shell. The warm goat cheese tart comes with slivered poached pears, fennel, and pine nuts. Sauces can be rich, so it’s best to stick to one or two items rather than ordering a bunch to share. That rule does not apply to the sashimi Napoleon, however. The creamy wasabi vinaigrette that the waiter pours atop your stack of ahi tartare, smoked salmon, and wonton chips is rich, but worth the indulgence. Sound ricochets in this vintage camp store, with its polished wooden floors, high ceilings, and open kitchen. It’s quieter in the back room, which is worth exploring anyway for its rotating exhibit of paintings by top local artists. Vegetarians: Ask for the extensive veggie menu.