Bev Gannon, one of the pioneering chefs of Hawaii Regional Cuisine, brought her gourmet comfort food to this renovated plantation store in rural Haliimaile in 1988. It was a gamble then; now it’s one of the island’s most beloved restaurants. Menu items reflect island cuisine with hints of Texas, from which Gannon hails, and most lunch items are moderately priced. Smoky baby-back pork ribs ($18) come with Asian slaw, while the brie and grape quesadilla ($14) includes cilantro-macadamia-nut pesto and sweet pea guacamole. At dinner, it’s best to stick to one rich item like the coconut seafood curry ($38) or the crispy roast half duck ($36) rather than ordering several to share. That rule does not apply to the sashimi Napoleon, however. The creamy wasabi vinaigrette that the waiter pours atop your stack of ahi tartare, smoked salmon, and wonton chips is rich but worth the indulgence. Sound ricochets in this vintage camp store, with its polished wooden floors, high ceilings, and open kitchen. It’s quieter in the back room, which is worth exploring anyway for its rotating exhibit of paintings by top local artists. Vegetarians: Ask for the extensive vegetarian dinner menu.