Ko

Kō is Hawaiian for sugarcane, and this restaurant revives the melting pot of Maui’s bygone plantation days. Chef Tylun Pang takes the ethnic foods of the islands’ Japanese, Filipino, Chinese, Portuguese, and Korean immigrants and presents them in gourmet fashion. The “ahi on the rock” appetizer is my favorite: large squares of seasoned ruby-red tuna delivered with a hot ishiyaki stone. Sear the ahi on the rock to your desired temperature, and then submerge it in an orange-ginger miso sauce. The paella, fat chunks of lobster, shrimp, scallops, and chorizo simmered in a rich saffron broth, is also fantastic. If dishes sound unfamiliar, let your waiter guide you. On Sunday, a special Hawaiian laulau is served: Fresh fish, shellfish, and bok choy are wrapped in tī leaves and steamed. Served with jasmine rice, it’s a marvelous re-creation of a traditional island meal. Monthly winemakers’ dinners here are special treats; check the website for dates. At lunchtime, you can order small portions of many of the dinner entrees, as well as ahi sandwiches and paniolo burgers.