Chef Sheldon Simeon won the nation’s heart when he appeared on "Top Chef: Seattle" wearing a red wool cap and an indefatigable smile. He didn’t win that contest, but he’s won just about every other accolade—including, most recently, the title of Best New Chef in the Pacific/Northwest region by "Food & Wine." For all the hype, Simeon is remarkably humble, and his cuisine reflects his homespun roots. At Migrant, which he opened with partners Mark Ellman and Shep Gordon, Simeon spotlights Filipino flavors and local-style cooking. Spiced with house-made sambal and calamansi lime, his Hood Canal oyster shooters are the best I’ve ever had. I’m still fantasizing about the kale salad with miso dressing, pickled cucumbers, and chunks of fig. The hibachi hanger steak lights up the entire tongue, dressed in nouc cham (a simultaneously sweet, sour, salty, and spicy Vietnamese fish sauce) and tender watercress leaves. For dessert, Migrant’s fun petit fours are composed of extra-light butter mochi puto and a mini rice cake with peanut sauce. In the lobby of the Wailea Marriott, this intimate gastropub is decorated with luminous paintings that echo the Simeon’s plantation-inspired cuisine. Come before the waitlist doubles.