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When in Hawaii, do as the Hawaiians and eat poi—steamed taro root pounded with water and slightly fermented. A small bowl of this traditional staple starch comes with the Hawaiian feast; mix it with the salty kalua pork or lomi salmon and enjoy. Otherwise order my favorite dishes: the creamy squid luau (octopus simmered with taro leaves in coconut milk) and the laulau (pork and butterfish wrapped in savory taro leaves like a present and steamed). Poke bowls may be the rage on the mainland, but they originated here in the islands. Try the spicy or shoyu poke made with locally caught tuna. Save room for dessert: coconut ice cream sundae with chocolate sauce and chunks of taro.