Renovated in 2017 with a stylish new look, this three-star hotel is our favorite place to stay in town. Dating from 1800, anyone who is anyone has stayed here over the years from Winston Churchill to Catherine Deneuve, and even the first giraffe to set foot on European soil (Zarafa, in 1827). Rooms are decorated in a chic dove grey, complemented by dashes of silver and white. Most overlook the courtyard, but we like the deluxe rooms, which have a river view (104€–165€). Breakfast features organic produce including award-winning jams, and the lobby bar has a good selection of local wines accompanied by tapas.