Planning a trip to Melbourne

Getting Around

By Public Transportation

Trams are the major form of transport in the city; you probably will use a train or bus only if you are going into the suburbs. Melbourne’s transport system uses an electronic ticketing system called myki, a reusable smart card that stores either a myki pass (travel days) or myki money (dollar value) to pay for your travel. You “touch on” and “touch off” at an electronic machine on board the tram or bus, or as you enter the train station. When your myki balance gets low or your pass runs out, you just top up your card. Myki money is a dollar amount (minimum A$10), and when you touch on and touch off as you travel, the system calculates the best available fare for the journey. With myki money you aren’t restricted to zones, as you pay for what you use. A 2-hour trip in Zone 1, which will allow you to travel on all trams and trains within the city and close surrounding suburbs mentioned in this chapter from 5:30am to midnight (when transportation stops), will cost you A$3.50 or a daily fare of A$7. The maximum daily myki money fare is $12, for travel in Zones 1 and 2, but on a Saturday, Sunday, or public holiday, you will pay the off-peak rate of $3.50 per day. A 7-day myki pass will cost $35 to travel in Zone 1. You can get cards at Flinders Street or Southern Cross stations or at the MetShop. and top them up through the Public Transport Victoria website (www.ptv.vic.gov.au) or at the call center (tel. 1800/800 007); or top up as little as A$1 at myki machines in train stations and at selected tram platforms and bus interchanges.

You can pick up a free route map from the Melbourne Visitor Centre, Federation Square, or from the PTV Hub at Southern Cross station (tel. 1800/800 007 in Australia; www.ptv.vic.gov.au), which is open Monday through Friday from 7am to 7pm and weekends and public holidays (except Christmas Day) 9am to 6pm. There’s another hub at 750 Collins St., Docklands, open from 8am to 6pm weekdays only (except public holidays).

By Tram -- Melbourne has the oldest tram network in the world. Trams are an essential part of the city, a major cultural icon, and a great non-smoggy way of getting around. Several hundred trams run over 325 km (202 miles) of track.

Trams stop at numbered tram-stop signs, sometimes in the middle of the road (so beware of oncoming traffic!). To get off the tram, press the button near the handrails or pull the cord above your head.

The City Circle Tram is the best way to get around the center of Melbourne—and it’s free. The burgundy-and-cream trams travel a circular route between all the major central attractions and past shopping malls and arcades. The trams run, in both directions, every 12 minutes between 10am and 6pm (and until 9pm Thurs–Sat), except on Good Friday and Christmas Day. The trams run along all the major thoroughfares including Flinders and Spencer streets. Burgundy signs mark City Circle Tram stops.

By Bus -- The free Melbourne City Tourist Shuttle operates buses that pick up and drop off at 13 stops around the city, including Federation Square, the Melbourne Museum, Queen Victoria Market, Immigration Museum, Southbank Arts Precinct, the Shrine of Remembrance and Botanic Gardens, Chinatown, and many other attractions. You can hop on and off during the day. The entire loop takes about 90 minutes nonstop, and there’s a commentary. The bus runs every 30 minutes from 9:30am until 4:30pm daily (except Christmas Day, and with limited service on some public holidays).

By Taxi

Cabs are plentiful in the city, but it may be difficult to hail one in the city center late on Friday and Saturday night. From 10pm to 5am, anywhere in Victoria, you must prepay your fare. The driver estimates the fare at the start of the journey, gives you a receipt, and then adjusts it according to the meter reading plus any fees such as road tolls, at the end of your trip. Taxi companies include Silver Top (tel. 13 10 08 in Australia), Embassy (tel. 13 17 55 in Australia), and Yellow Cabs (tel. 13 22 27 in Australia).

By Car

Driving in Melbourne can be challenging. Roads can be confusing; there are trams everywhere; and there is a rule about turning right from the left lane at major intersections in the downtown center and in South Melbourne (which leaves the left lane free for trams and through traffic). Here, you must wait for the lights to turn amber before turning. Also, you must always stop behind a tram if it stops, because passengers usually step directly into the road. Add to this the general lack of parking and expensive hotel valet parking, and you’ll know why it’s better to avoid driving and get on a tram instead. For road rules, pick up a copy of the Victorian Road Traffic handbook from bookshops or from a Vic Roads office (tel. 13 11 71 in Australia for the nearest office).

Major car-rental companies, all with offices at Tullamarine Airport, include Avis, Shop 2, 8 Franklin St. (tel. 03/9204 3933); Budget, Shop 3, 8 Franklin St. (tel. 03/9203 4844); Europcar, 89 Franklin St. (tel. 03/8633 0000); Hertz, 97 Franklin St. (tel. 13 30 39 in Australia, or 03/9663 4205); and Thrifty, 390 Elizabeth St. (tel. 1300/367 227 in Australia or 03/8661 6000).

Getting There

Arriving

By Plane -- Qantas (tel. 13 13 13 in Australia; www.qantas.com.au) and Virgin Australia (tel. 13 67 89 in Australia; www.virginaustralia.com.au) both fly to Melbourne from all state capitals and some regional centers. Qantas’s discount arm, Jetstar (tel. 13 15 38 in Australia; www.jetstar.com.au) flies to and from Sydney, Brisbane, Cairns, Townsville, Hamilton Island, the Sunshine Coast and Gold Coast, and various other cities around the country. Jetstar also flies between Avalon Airport, about a 50-minute drive outside Melbourne’s city center, and Sydney and Brisbane. Low-cost carrier Tigerair (tel. 03/9335 3033; www.tigerairways.com) has its hub in Melbourne, and from there flies to Sydney, Hobart, Perth, Alice Springs, Cairns, Brisbane, and the Gold and Sunshine Coasts in Queensland, and several other cities.

Melbourne Airport’s international and domestic terminals (www.melair.com.au) are under one roof at Tullamarine, 22 km (14 miles) northwest of the city center (often referred to as Tullamarine Airport). Construction is underway for an additional domestic terminal, which will be home to Tigerair and Jetstar. It is expected to be completed by mid-2015. Travelers’information desks are on the ground floor of both the international and domestic terminals, open from 6am until the last flight. The international terminal has snack bars, a restaurant, currency-exchange facilities, and duty-free shops. ATMs are available at both terminals. Showers are on the first floor of the international area. Baggage carts are free in the international baggage claim hall but cost A$4 in the parking lot, departure lounge, or domestic terminal. Baggage storage is available in the international terminal and costs from A$12 to A$25 per day, depending on size. The storage desk is open from 5am to 12:30am daily, and you need photo ID. There are three airport hotels: Parkroyal Melbourne Airport (tel. 03/8347 2000), Holiday Inn Melbourne Airport (tel. 03/9933 5111), and Ibis Budget Melbourne Airport (tel. 03/8336 1811), all within 5 minutes’walk of the terminals.

Avis (tel. 13 63 33 in Australia, or 03/9338 1800), Budget (tel. 13 27 27 in Australia or 039241 6366), Europcar (tel. 1300/131 390 in Australia or 03/9241 6800), Hertz (tel. 13 30 39 in Australia or 03/9338 4044), Thrifty (tel. 1300/367 227 in Australia or 03/9241 6100) and Redspot (tel. 1300/668 810 in Australia or 02/8303 2222) all have airport rental desks. The Tullamarine freeway to and from the airport joins with the CityLink, an electronic toll-way system. Drivers need a CityLink pass. Check with your car-rental company.

The distinctive red Skybus (tel. 03/9600 1711; www.skybus.com.au) runs between the airport and Melbourne’s Southern Cross station in Spencer Street every 10 to 15 minutes throughout the day and every 30 to 60 minutes overnight, 24 hours a day, every day. Buy tickets from Skybus desks outside the baggage claim areas or at the information desk in the international terminal. A free Skybus hotel shuttle will pick you up at your hotel to connect with the larger airport-bound bus at Southern Cross railway station in the city center, but you must book this. It operates from 6am to 10:30pm weekdays and 7:30am to 5:30pm weekends. One-way tickets cost A$17 for adults, and A$28 gets you a two-way journey. Kids aged 4 to 14 cost A$6.50 each way. Family tickets cost A$24 to A$38A for up to six people or A$40 to A$65 round-trip. The trip takes about 20 minutes from the airport to Southern Cross station, but allow longer for your return journey.

Sita Coaches (tel. 03/9689 7999; www.sitacoaches.com.au) operates a transfer service to Avalon Airport for Jetstar flights. One-way fares from Avalon Airport are A$22 for adults and A$10 for children 4 to 14 to Southern Cross station, more to other CBD locations and other suburbs.

A taxi to the city center takes about 30 minutes and costs around A$55.

By Train -- Interstate trains arrive at Southern Cross Railway Station, Spencer, and Little Collins streets (5 blocks from Swanston St., in the city center). You may often hear locals refer to it as Spencer Street Station. Taxis and buses connect with the city.

The Sydney–Melbourne XPT travels between Australia’s two largest cities daily; trip time is 11 hours. For more information, contact NSW Trainlink (tel. 13 22 32 in Australia; www.nswtrainlink.info). V/Line (tel. 13 61 96 in Australia or 03/9697 2076; www.vline.com.au) services also connect Melbourne with country Victoria destinations and other capital cities.

By Bus -- Several bus companies connect Melbourne with other capitals and regional areas of Victoria. Among the biggest are Greyhound Australia (tel. 1300/473 946 in Australia, or 03/9642 8562; www.greyhound.com.au). Coaches serve Melbourne’s Transit Centre, 58 Franklin St., two blocks north of the Southern Cross Railway station on Spencer Street. Trams and taxis serve the station; V/Line buses (tel. 13 61 96 in Australia; www.vline.com.au), which travel all over Victoria, depart from the Spencer Street Coach Terminal.

By Car -- You can drive from Sydney to Melbourne along the Hume Highway (a straight trip of about 9 1/2 hr.). Another route is along the coastal Princes Highway, for which you will need a minimum of 2 days, with stops. For information on all aspects of road travel in Victoria, contact the Royal Automotive Club of Victoria (tel. 13 13 29 in Australia or 03/8792 4006; www.racv.com.au).

Fast Facts

ATMs/Banks -- Banks are open Monday through Thursday from 9:30am to 4pm, and Friday from 9:30am to 5pm.

Business Hours -- In general, stores are open Monday through Wednesday and Saturday from 9am to 5:30pm, Thursday from 9am to 6pm, Friday from 9am to 9pm, and Sunday from 10am to 5pm. The larger department stores stay open on Thursday until 6pm and Friday until 9pm.

Dentists -- The Royal Dental Hospital of Melbourne (tel. 03/9341 1000), at 720 Swanston St., Carlton, offers emergency services 9am to 9:15pm daily.

Doctors & Hospitals -- The “casualty” department at the Royal Melbourne Hospital, 300 Grattan St., Parkville (tel. 03/9342 7000), responds to emergencies. The Traveller’s Medical & Vaccination Centre, Second Floor, 393 Little Bourke St. (tel. 03/9935 8100; www.traveldoctor.com.au), offers full vaccination and travel medical services.

Embassies & Consulates -- The following English-speaking countries have consulates in Melbourne: United States, Level 6, 553 St. Kilda Rd. (tel. 03/9526 5900); United Kingdom, Level 17, 90 Collins St. (tel. 03/9652 1600); and New Zealand, Level 4, 45 William St. (tel. 03/9678 0201).

Emergencies -- In an emergency, call tel. 000 for police, ambulance, or the fire department.

Internet Access -- The State Library of Victoria, 328 Swanston St. (tel. 03/8864 7000; www.slv.vic.gov.au), has free wireless Internet in all areas of the library and powerpoints in all reading rooms. There are many Internet cafes along Elizabeth Street, between Flinders and Latrobe streets, and around Flinders Lane and Little Bourke Street in Chinatown. Most are open from early until well into the night.

Mail & Postage -- The General Post Office (GPO) at 250 Elizabeth St. (tel. 13 13 18 in Australia) is open Monday through Friday 8:30am to 5:30pm and on Saturday 9am to 5pm.

Newspapers & Magazines -- Melbourne’s daily newspapers are The Age and the Herald-Sun. Both have Sunday versions as well.

Pharmacies (Chemist Shops) -- The Mulqueeny Pharmacy, 99 Swanston St. (tel. 03/9654 8569), is open Monday through Friday from 8am to 8pm, Saturday from 9am to 6pm, and Sunday 11am to 6pm. The Mulqueeny Midnight Pharmacy, 416 High St., Prahran (tel. 03/9510 6130), is open every day of the year until midnight.

Safety -- St. Kilda might be coming up in the world, but walking there alone at night still isn’t wise. Parks and gardens can also be risky at night, as can the area around the King Street nightclubs.

Neighborhoods in Brief

At more than 7,695 sq. km (2,971 sq. miles), Melbourne is one of the biggest cities in the world by area, with a population of about 3.5 million. Following are the neighborhoods of most interest to visitors.

City Center -- Made up of a grid of streets north of the Yarra River, the city center is bordered by Flinders, Latrobe, Spring, and Spencer streets. There’s good shopping and charming cafes, and in recent years an active nightlife has sprung up with the opening of a swath of funky bars and restaurants playing live and recorded music to suit all ages. The gateway to the city is the Flinders Street Station, with its dome and clock tower, flanked by the Federation Square precinct.

Chinatown -- This colorful section centers on Little Bourke Street between Swanston and Exhibition streets. The area marks Australia’s oldest permanent Chinese settlement, dating from the 1850s, when a few boardinghouses catered to Chinese prospectors lured by gold rushes. Plenty of cheap restaurants crowd its alleyways. Tram: Any to the city.

Carlton -- North of the center, Carlton is a rambling suburb famous for Italian restaurants along Lygon Street with outdoor seating—though the quality of the food varies. It’s the home of Melbourne University, so there’s a healthy student scene. From Bourke Street Mall, it’s a 15-minute walk to the restaurants. Tram: 1 or 22 from Swanston Street.

Fitzroy -- A ruggedly bohemian place 2 km (1 1/4 miles) north of the city center, Fitzroy is raw and funky, filled with students and artists and popular for people-watching. Fitzroy revolves around Brunswick Street, with its cheap restaurants, busy cafes, late-night bookshops, art galleries, and pubs. Around the corner, on Johnston Street, is a growing Spanish quarter with tapas bars, flamenco restaurants, and Spanish clubs. Tram: 11 from Collins Street.

Richmond -- One of Melbourne’s earliest settlements is a multicultural quarter noted for its historic streets and back lanes. Victoria Street is reminiscent of Ho Chi Minh City, with Vietnamese sights, sounds, aromas, and restaurants everywhere. Bridge Road is a discount-fashion precinct. Tram: 48 or 75 from Flinders Street to Bridge Road; 70 from Batman Avenue at Princes Bridge to Swan Street; 109 from Bourke Street to Victoria Street.

Southgate & Southbank -- This flashy entertainment district on the banks of the Yarra River opposite Flinders Street station (linked by pedestrian bridges) is home to the Crown Casino, Australia’s largest gaming venue. Southbank has a myriad of restaurants, bars, cafes, nightclubs, cinemas, and designer shops. On the city side of the river is the Melbourne Aquarium. All are a 10-minute stroll from Flinders Street Station. Tram: 8 from Swanston Street.

Docklands -- Near the city center, at the rear of the Spencer Street station, this industrial area has become the biggest development in Melbourne. NewQuay on the waterfront has a diverse range of restaurants, shops, and cinemas. This is also where you’ll find Melbourne’s celebration of the dominance of Australian Rules football, the 52,000-seat Etihad Stadium. Docklands is accessible by the free City Circle Tram.

St. Kilda -- Hip and bohemian in a shabby-chic sort of way, this bayside suburb (6 km/3 3/4 miles south of the city center) has Melbourne’s highest concentration of restaurants, ranging from glitzy to cheap, as well as some superb cake shops and delis. Historically it was Melbourne’s red-light district. The Esplanade hugs a beach with a vintage pier and a lively arts-and-crafts market on Sundays. Acland Street houses many restaurants. Check out Luna Park, one of the world’s oldest fun parks, built in 1912, and ride the wooden roller coaster. Tram: 10 or 12 from Collins Street; 15 or 16 from Swanston Street; 96 from Bourke Street.

South Yarra/Prahran -- This posh part of town abounds with boutiques, cinemas, nightclubs, and galleries. Chapel Street is famous for its upscale eateries and designer-fash1ion houses, while Commercial Road is popular with the gay and lesbian community. Off Chapel Street in Prahran is Greville Street, a bohemian enclave of retro boutiques and music outlets. Every Sunday from noon to 5pm, the Greville Street Market offers arts, crafts, old clothes, and jewelry. Tram: 8 or 72 from Swanston Street.

South Melbourne -- One of the city’s oldest working-class districts, South Melbourne is known for its historic buildings, old-fashioned pubs and hotels, and markets. Tram: 12 from Collins Street; 1 from Swanston Street.

The River District -- The muddy-looking Yarra River runs southeast past the Royal Botanic Gardens and near other attractions such as the Arts Centre, the National Gallery of Victoria, the Sidney Myer Music Bowl, the Melbourne Cricket Ground, and Birrarung Marr parkland. It is accessible by the free City Circle Tram.

Williamstown -- A lack of extensive development has left this waterfront suburb with a rich architectural heritage. It centers on Ferguson Street and Nelson Place—both reminiscent of old England. On the Strand overlooking the sea is a line of bistros and restaurants and a World War II warship museum. Ferry: From Southgate, the World Trade Center, or St. Kilda Pier.