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This Victorian-era market started out as a creamery only (you can still see the signs above some of the inside stalls advertising butter and milk), but by the end of World War I it had expanded so much that the outdoor stalls had to be built over an old graveyard. Today the market represents both the best of traditional Sydney and its new multi-cultural face. When you head into the meat and fish hall, you'll still here sellers yelling out, in booming baritones, their "bargains of the day", but sometimes those products will be tailored to the tastes of the immigrants who now live nearby and need innards for stews, or prefer female pork to male. In the Delicatessen section, you can graze yourself a meal on everything from Middle Eastern borak, to peppered kangaroo, to Vietnamese sandwiches.  If you want to go with a real expert, try the 2-hour Foodies Dream Tour of the market; you won't need lunch afterwards! It departs Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday at 10am and costs A$40 per person. Bookings (www.qvm.com.au/tours/foodies-dream-tour; tel. 03/9320 5822) are essential. Night markets are held every Wednesday from 5:30 to 10pm in summer (from Nov to Mar, except the last week of Dec).

-Pauline Frommer