Planning a trip to Memphis

Memphis spawned several of the most important musical forms of the 20th century, yet Nashville stole the Tennessee limelight with its country music. Ask the average American what makes Memphis special, and he or she might be able to tell you that this is the city of Graceland, Elvis Presley's mansion.

What they're less likely to know is that Memphis is also the birthplace of the blues, rock 'n' roll, and soul music. Memphis is where W. C. Handy put down on paper the first written blues music, where The King made his first recording, and where Otis Redding and Al Green expressed the music in their souls.

Many fans of American music (and they come from all over the world) know Memphis. Walking down Beale Street today, sitting in the Sun Studio Cafe, or waiting to pass through the wrought-iron gates of Graceland, you're almost as likely to hear French, German, and Japanese as you are to hear English. British, Irish, and Scottish accents are all common in a city known throughout the world as the birthplace of the most important musical styles of the 20th century. For these people, a trip to Memphis is a pilgrimage. The Irish rock band U2 came here to pay homage and wound up infusing their music with Americana on the record and movie U2: Rattle and Hum. Lead singer Bono, when interviewed for the city's new Soulsville museum, called the city's musical heritage "extraordinary."

Pilgrims come to Memphis not only because Graceland, the second most-visited home in America (after the White House), is here, but they also come because Beale Street was once home to Handy -- and later, B. B. King, Muddy Waters, and others -- who merged the gospel singing and cotton-field work songs of the Mississippi Delta into a music called the blues. They come because Sun Studio's owner, Sam Phillips, in the early 1950s began recording several young musicians who experimented with fusing the sounds of "hillbilly" (country) music and the blues into an entirely new sound. This uniquely American sound, first known as rockabilly, would quickly become known as rock 'n' roll, the music that has written the soundtrack for the baby-boom generation.

For information on Memphis, contact the Memphis Convention & Visitors Bureau, 47 Union Ave., Memphis, TN 38103 (tel. 800/8-MEMPHIS [863-6744] or 901/543-5300). You can also get information online at www.memphistravel.com and the following websites:

The Memphis Flyer is Memphis's main arts and entertainment weekly: www.memphisflyer.com.
The Commercial Appeal is Memphis's morning daily newspaper: www.commercialappeal.com.

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Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Being environmentally conscious isn't the main concern of most music fans visiting Nashville and Memphis, yet Tennessee has begun taking steps to change that. After all, it is the home state of former U.S. Vice President Al Gore, whose bestseller, Earth in the Balance, launched intense scrutiny of global warming.

Increasingly, hotel chains in Nashville and Memphis are trying to be more environmentally friendly, by giving guests the option of requesting fresh linens and towels on a nightly basis. For example, the new Hutton Hotel, in Nashville, is a pioneer in sustainable luxury.

Perhaps most noticeably, green living begins with what people eat. Restaurants, such as Nashville's tayst -- the city's first green-certified eatery -- are drawing kudos for their efforts and encouraging other restaurants to take similar measures.

In both Nashville and in Memphis, chefs and restaurant owners are beginning to emphasize organic and/or locally grown and raised produce, cheese, and meat sources for their menu items. Both cities also have vibrant farmers' markets, allowing residents and tourists alike to shop for the fresh foods and ingredients.

In the pork-barbecue-loving cities of Nashville and Memphis, it's not always easy to avoid eating greasy, meat-heavy meals. But the situation is light-years better than it used to be. An abundance of ethnic eateries can be found in both cities, and vegetarian options at mainstream restaurants are much more common than they were, say, a decade ago.

Increasingly, coffee houses such as Bongo Java in Nashville feature fair-trade coffees in their own, distinctive blends.

General Resources for Green Travel

In addition to the resources for Nashville and Memphis listed above, the following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel. For a list of even more sustainable resources, as well as tips and explanations on how to travel greener, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO; www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

In Canada, www.greenlivingonline.com offers extensive content on how to travel sustainably, including a travel and transport section and profiles of the best green shops and services in Toronto, Vancouver, and Calgary.

In Australia, the national body that sets guidelines and standards for ecotourism is Ecotourism Australia (www.ecotourism.org.au). The Green Directory (www.thegreendirectory.com.au), Green Pages (www.thegreenpages.com.au), and Eco Directory (www.ecodirectory.com.au) offer sustainable travel tips and directories of green businesses.

Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Carbon Neutral (www.carbonneutral.org) provide info on "carbon offsetting," or offsetting the greenhouse gas emitted during flights.

Greenhotels (www.greenhotels.com) recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company's stringent environmental requirements. Environmentally Friendly Hotels (www.environmentallyfriendlyhotels.com) offers more green accommodation ratings. The Hotel Association of Canada (www.hacgreenhotels.com) has a Green Key Eco-Rating Program, which audits the environmental performance of Canadian hotels, motels, and resorts.

Sustain Lane (www.sustainlane.com) lists sustainable eating and drinking choices around the U.S.; also visit www.eatwellguide.org for tips on eating sustainably in the U.S. and Canada.

For information on animal-friendly issues throughout the world, visit Tread Lightly (www.treadlightly.org). For information about the ethics of swimming with dolphins, visit the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society (www.wdcs.org).

Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a list of questions to help you determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program. For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org.

Health & Insurance

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

In Memphis, call Methodist Healthcare, at 1211 Union Ave. (tel. 901/5176-7000), or the Regional Medical Center/Elvis Presley Trauma Center, at 877 Jefferson Ave. (tel. 901/545-7100).

If you have dental problems in either city, a nationwide referral service, known as 1-800-DENTIST (tel. 800/336-8478), will provide the name of a nearby dentist or clinic.

You may want to ask the concierge at your hotel to recommend a local doctor -- even his or her own. This will probably yield a better recommendation than any toll-free number would.

You can also try the emergency room at a local hospital. Many hospitals also have walk-in clinics for emergency cases that are not life threatening; you may not get immediate attention, but you won't pay the high price of an emergency room visit.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through airport security. Visitors from outside the U.S. should carry generic names of prescription drugs. For U.S. travelers, most reliable health-care plans provide coverage if you get sick away from home. Foreign visitors may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later.

Staying Safe

Nashville is a friendly city where travelers can feel safe both downtown and in outlying neighborhoods. Cautious tourists may want to be aware that the nightlife along Broadway downtown can become rowdy after dark.

Although it, too, is full of friendly people, Memphis also has a serious crime problem, with rampant gang activity and one of the highest violent crime rates in the U.S. Although tourists aren't necessarily targeted, neither are they immune. Avoid walking or driving in unpopulated or inner-city areas alone, especially after dark. Be mindful of your surroundings, and take prudent precautions to avoid becoming a victim, such as keeping valuables hidden and your car locked.

Escorted & Package Tours

Most large tour operators, including Sweet Magnolia, tailor some of their trip offerings to music guests. Others have options for Civil War buffs, including tours of historic battlegrounds and plantations. African-American history tours include sites related to the American Civil Rights movement.

Food Trips

If you're more interested in barbecue and turnip greens cooked in "pot likker" than you are in Tennessee's music attractions, you probably already know about the Southern Foodways Alliance, P.O. Box 1848 University, MS 38677 (tel. 662/915-5993; www.southernfoodways.com). Based at the University of Mississippi in Oxford, about an hour's drive south of Memphis, the fun-loving and highly regarded nonprofit organization specializes in culinary tourism. Special events, field trips, and symposia often sell out, so check their website for special activities that may be scheduled when you plan to visit the area.

Escorted General-Interest Tours

For travel planning to Memphis, Northwest Airlines, which has a hub in Memphis, offers convenient packages. (From Europe, KLM airlines offers direct flights from Amsterdam to Memphis.) For travel to Nashville, Southwest Airlines offers similar packages into Nashville from major U.S. cities.

The convention and visitors bureaus' websites in Nashville and Memphis allow tourists to book vacation packages that include hotel and attractions options. For example, the Nashville Nights "Honky Tonk Heaven" package includes 2 hotel nights, and tours to Ryman Auditorium, the Tennessee State Capitol, Historic Second Avenue, the Wildhorse Saloon, and the Hard Rock Cafe. All packages can be customized online, allowing you to book additional nights and add attractions to your itinerary.

Sweet Magnolia Tours (www.sweetmagnoliatours.com) is one of the few tour operators in Tennessee with offices in both Nashville and Memphis. In 2008, the company began offering specific vacation packages that combine the best of both cities. The land-only packages include hotel and attractions. For more information, call tel. 800/235-5295 or 615/646-0030 in Nashville, and tel. 901-369-9838 in Memphis.

For European travelers interested in touring Tennessee as well as Atlanta and New Orleans, check out the following website: www.deep-south-usa.de.

For more information on escorted general-interest tours, including questions to ask before booking your trip, see www.frommers.com/planning.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling in the U.S. There are more options and resources out there than ever before.

The Disability Information Office, 25 Middleton St. (tel. 615/862-6492), provides a referral and information service for visitors with disabilities. The Nashville City Vacation Guide, available either through this office or the Nashville Convention & Visitors Bureau, includes information on accessibility of restaurants, hotels, attractions, shops, and nightlife around Nashville. Similarly, the Memphis Center for Independent Living, 1633 Madison Ave. (tel. 901/726-6404; www.mcil.org), is a consumer-oriented organization that helps people with disabilities.

Wheelchair Getaways of Memphis, Tennessee (tel. 888/245-9944; www.wheelchair-getaways.com), rents specialized vans with wheelchair lifts and other features for the disabled.

Tips for Student Travelers

There are about a dozen major colleges and universities in the Memphis area. The most prominent are Rhodes College, 2000 North Pkwy. (tel. 901/726-3000), which has a Gothic-style campus located opposite Overton Park; and the University of Memphis, on Central Avenue between Highland and Goodlett streets (tel. 901/678-2000), located on a large campus in midtown Memphis.

Tips for Black Travelers

Because Tennessee is so rich in African-American heritage, the convention and visitors bureaus in both cities offer free, specialized resources for travelers in black history and multicultural heritage.

Memphis visitors can contact the Black Business Association (tel. 901/525-2357; http://bbamemphis.blogspot.com).

For customized tours for visitors from overseas, contact Germania Travel Tour Guide (tel. 901/794-0347; www.germaniatraveltourguide.com).

When to Go

Summer is the peak tourist season in Nashville and Memphis. Unless you're specifically visiting Nashville for the Country Music Fan Fair in June, or going to Graceland for Elvis Week in August, you might want to avoid traveling during these times, when hotels sell out and prices go through the roof.

Summer is also when both cities experience their worst weather. During July and August, and often in September, temperatures can hover around 100°F, with humidity at close to 100%. (Can you say "muggy"?) Spring and fall, however, last for several months and both are quite pleasant. Days are often warm and nights cool, though during these two seasons the weather changes, so bring a variety of clothes. Heavy rains can hit any time of year, and if you spend more than 3 or 4 days in town, you can almost bet on seeing some rain. Winters can be cold, with daytime temperatures staying below freezing, and snow is not unknown.

Calendar of Events

January

Elvis Presley's Birthday Tribute, Graceland. International gathering of Presley fans to celebrate the birthday of "The King" (tel. 800/238-2000; www.elvis.com). Around January 8.

Martin Luther King, Jr.'s, Birthday, citywide. Events to memorialize Dr. King take place on the nationally observed holiday (tel. 901/521-9699; www.civilrightsmuseum.org). Mid-January.

International Blues Challenge, Beale Street. More than 200 blues bands, solo acts and duos come together to compete and perform.( tel. 901/527-2583. blues.org). Mid-January.

Southern Women’s Show, Agricenter. Catch fashion shows and shop hundreds of boutiques filled with trendy jewelry, gourmet treats, and health and beauty items. (tel. 901/376-6594. southernshows.com.) Late January.

February

Mardi Gras Celebrations, citywide. Bar crawls and crawfish boils are held from Cooper-Young to Beale Street, and at Second Line restaurant. Search “Mardi Gras” on ilovememphisblog.com. Mid- to late February.

International Jewish Film Festival, Belz Theater. A month of films highlighting the Jewish experience past and present. (tel. 901/761-0810. jccmemphis.org). All month.

March

Silky O’Sullivan St. Patrick’s Day Parade, Beale Street. Since 1973, the annual parade includes marching bands, steppers, twirlers, floats, and more. (tel. 901/526-0115. bealestreet.com). Mid-March.

April

30 Days of Opera, citywide. Opera Memphis delivers a solid month of free public events throughout the city. (tel. 901/202-4533. operamemphis.org.) April.

Africa in April Cultural Awareness Festival, downtown. A several-day festival centering on African music, dance, theater, exhibits, arts, and crafts (tel. 901/947-2133; www.africainapril.org). Third week in April.

Crawfish Boils, various locations. Memphis goes big on mudbugs with events including the Overton Square Crawfish Festival (overtonsquare.com) and the Rajun Cajun Crawfish Festival (porterleath.org) to name two. Mid-April.

Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr., Commemoration, National Civil Rights Museum. This online and in-person event remembers the assasination of the civil rights leader through performances, speeches and the changing of the balcony wreath at 6:01 p.m. (tel. 901/525-2458. civilrightsmuseum.org April 4.

Memphis Comedy Festival, citywide. Four days highlighting local and national talent with improv and comedy shows, open mics, and seminars. Search "Memphis Comedy Festival” on ticketmaster.com. Early April.

Vintage 901 Spring Festival, Shelby Farms Park. Taste fine wines and bites as you listen to local music. vintage901.org. Mid-April.

May

Blues Music Awards, downtown. The nation’s premier blues music awards program is held where (tel. 901/527-2583. blues.org). Early May.

Memphis Fashion Week, downtown. The biggest fashion event in Memphis, fashion week showcases spring/summer collections each year with local designers, models, photographers, and stylists. arrowcreative.org. Mid-May.

Memphis in May International Festival, citywide. A month-long celebration of a different country each year with musical, cultural, and artistic festivities; business, sports, and educational programs; and food unique to the country. More than a million people come to nearly 100 sanctioned events scheduled throughout the city. The most important happenings are the Memphis in May Beale Street Music Festival (first weekend in May), the World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest (mid-May), and the Sunset Symphony (last weekend of May). Call tel. 901/525-4611; or visit www.memphisinmay.org. Entire month of May.

June

Germantown Charity Horse Show, Germantown Horse Show Arena. Four-day competition for prizes (tel. 901/754-0009; www.gchs.org). Second week in June.

Juneteenth, citywide. Celebrate the end of slavery all across the city, from musical events at LeMoyne Owen College to African-American history tours at Elmwood Cemetery. Search “Juneteenth” on ilovememphisblog.com. June 19.

Live at the Garden, Radians Amphitheater at Memphis Botanic Garden. Outdoor summer concert series that features acts ranging from REO Speedwagon to Train to Gladys Knight. (tel. 901/636-4100. liveatthegarden.com). June–July.

Memphis Pride Fest. Memphis Pride Fest Weekend spans 4 days and includes a dance party, festival, parade, parties, and a Drag Brunch on Sunday. midsouthpride.org. First weekend of June.

Memphis Italian Fest, Marquette Park. For nearly 3 decades, the place to enjoy Italian cuisine, live music, and activities, including the Luigi Land carnival game section. (tel. 901/848-4546. memphisitalianfestival.com). Early June.

July

Star-Spangled Celebration, various locations. Fireworks shows from Germantown to Bartlett to Mud Island and a parade in Cooper-Young give people in any part of town options. memphistravel.com. July 4.

Blues on the Bluff, downtown. Volunteer- and member-supported radio station WEVL-FM presents two concerts on the grounds of the National Ornamental Metal Museum, overlooking the Mississippi River. (tel. 901/528-0560. wevl.org). Late July, early August.

August

Elvis Tribute Week, Graceland and citywide. Festival commemorating the influences of Elvis (tel. 800/238-2000; www.elvis.com). Second week in August.

September

Central Gardens Home & Garden Tour, Midtown. Tour century-old private homes. (tel. 901/343-6242. centralgardens.org. Mid-September.

Cooper-Young Festival, midtown. Neighborhood festival featuring food, arts, crafts, and family activities (tel. 901/276-7222; www.cooperyoungfestival.com). Mid-September.

Delta Fair, Agricenter. This East Memphis festival serves up bands, Mixed Martial Arts, rides, a rodeo, craft fair, roller derby, shopping, and food. deltafest.com. Early September.

Germantown Festival, Midtown. Some 400 local vendors show off their jewelry, pottery, metal, woodwork, and more at this family-friendly event. (tel. 901/757-9212. germantownfest.com). Early September.

Gonerfest 20, Railgarten. Multi-day music festival with 30-plus bands including punk groups, R&B bands, and indie artists. goner-records.com. Late September.

Pink Palace Crafts Fair, Audubon Park. Crafts fair spanning 3 days where vendors from all over the country sell handmade works, demonstrate traditional crafts—furniture making, metalwork—and local arts groups perform. moshmemphis.com. Late September.

Southern Heritage Classic, Midtown. Classic college football rivalry at the Liberty Bowl Memorial Stadium. (tel. 901/398-6655. southernheritageclassic.com). Mid-September.

October

Mempho Music Festival, Radians Amphitheater at Memphis Botanic Garden. Concerts with artists like Beck, Post Malone, and Janelle Monáe set in this urban oasis. memphofest.com. Late October.

River Arts Festival, South Main Historic District. Painters, jewelers, sculptors, woodworkers and other artists and musicians converge on the South Main Historic District in downtown Memphis for this high-quality, juried festival (tel. 901/826-3629; riverartsfestmemphis.org). Late October.

November

The Freedom Awards, downtown. Human rights activists are honored by the National Civil Rights Museum (tel. 901/521-9699; www.civilrightsmuseum.org) with public lectures and other ceremonies. Past recipients include Oprah Winfrey, Bono, Colin Powell, and Bill Clinton. Late October or early November.

Grilled Cheese Fest, Hi Tone. Taste grilled cheese sandwiches in categories ranging from “Most Cheesiest” to “Most Ridiculous,” and vote for your favoritee, all to support ALIVE animal rescue. memphisgrilledcheese.com. Early November.

Indie Memphis Film Fest, five theaters. Ranked as one of the 25 Coolest Film Festivals by “MovieMaker” magazine, the weekend-long festival attracts filmmakers and musicians from across the nation. (tel. 901/214-5171. indiememphis.com). Late October-Early November.

Zoo Lights, Memphis Zoo. Get in the holiday spirit with ice skating, snow in the courtyard, Santa in his shop, live reindeer, thousands of holiday lights, and more. (tel. 901/3330-6500. memphiszoo.org. Mid-November to New Year’s Day.to early January

Starry Nights, Shelby Farms Park. Drive through thousands of lights before visiting Mistletoe Village where you can meet Santa, buy gifts, and more. Traffic can be intense, so go to the bathroom early and pack snacks. shelbyfarmspark.org. Thanksgiving through ChristmasNew Year’s Eve.

December

St. Jude Memphis Marathon, downtown. Marathon, half-marathon, and 5K. (tel. 901/578-1555. stjude.org. Date changes annually. Early December.

Enchanted Forest Festival of Trees, Museum of Science & History - Pink PalacePink Palace Museum. Winter wonderland with cast of animated characters in a snowy forest setting. (tel. 901/287-5437. lebonheur.org. Mid-November through end of December.

AutoZone Liberty Bowl Football Classic, Liberty Bowl Memorial Stadium. Nationally televised college game. libertybowl.org. December 31.

New Year’s Eve on Beale Street, Beale Street. New Year’s Eve celebration inside the clubs and outside on Beale Street. (tel. 901/526-0115. bealestreet.com). December 31.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. Currency conversions were correct at the time of this writing. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

It's always advisable to bring money in a variety of forms on a vacation: a mix of cash and credit cards. You should also exchange enough petty cash to cover airport incidentals, tipping, and transportation to your hotel before you leave home, or withdraw money upon arrival at an airport ATM.

Nashville and Memphis are moderately priced, compared with larger U.S. cities such as New York and Atlanta. While rapid growth and developments caused costs for downtown parking, hotels, and restaurants to spike in both cities in recent years, the recent U.S. economic recession has led many of these destinations to offer discounted rates or added perks to entice travelers.

ATMs are prevalent in Nashville and Memphis. Debit cards are widely accepted.

Getting There

By Plane

Memphis is served by all of the major U.S. carriers except JetBlue, and a few of the budget ones (specifically Allegiant, Frontier and Spirit).

Getting into Memphis from the Airport -- The Memphis International Airport (tel. 901/922-8000) is located approximately 11 miles south of downtown Memphis, off I-240. From the airport to East Memphis, it's about 9 miles. The route into either downtown or East Memphis is on I-240 all the way. Generally, allow about 20 to 25 minutes for the trip between the airport and downtown or East Memphis, though it can take up to an hour more during rush hour.

There is no direct bus service from the airport to downtown Memphis. Many hotels offer shuttles to the airport, and you can find information on those at flymemphis.com/hotel-shuttles. The most popular way to get to and from the airport is by ride-sharing via Uber or Lyft. These now depart from the terminal’s upper ticketing level in a separate place from taxis, shuttles, and private pickups, which occur on the lower baggage level. Taxis are still available from the airport to downtown Memphis and cost about $40. Companies include Yellow/Checker Cab (tel. 901/577-7777) or City Wide Cab Company (tel. 901/324-4202).

By Car

Memphis lies at the southwestern tip of Tennessee, bordering Mississippi and Arkansas. Interstate 40 connects Memphis with Nashville to the east and Little Rock, Arkansas, to the west. Interstate 55 connects Memphis with Mississippi to the south, and St. Louis to the north. Both interstates intersect with I-240, which loops around the city's north, east, and southern suburbs. The western edge of downtown Memphis is the Mississippi River.

For Memphis, here are some driving distances from other cities: Atlanta, 390 miles; Chicago, 534 miles; Little Rock 135 miles; New Orleans, 395 miles; St. Louis, 284 miles.

The speed limit is 70 mph for much of the stretch between Nashville and Memphis, which also offers access to clean rest stops and dozens of service stations and restaurants. For travel information at any time, dial tel. 511 on your cell phone.

If you're visiting from abroad and plan to rent a car in the United States, keep in mind that foreign driver's licenses are usually recognized in the U.S., but you should get an international one if your home license is not in English.

There is no plane service between Nashville and Memphis. You will have to rent a car and drive the 3-hour distance between the two cities. Interstate 40, also known as "The Music Highway," has several interesting diversions along the way.

By Bus

Greyhound (tel. 800/231-2222) is the sole nationwide bus line. Greyhound service between Nashville and Memphis costs about $5; see the website for costs from other cities. The Greyhound bus station is is near the airport at 3033 Airways Blvd.

By Train

Amtrak (tel. 800/872-7245) serves Memphis (but not Nashville) with a route that goes from Chicago through Memphis (about 11 hours' travel time) en route to New Orleans (about 8 hours) on the City of New Orleans. If you arrive in Memphis on an Amtrak train, you'll find yourself at Central Station, 545 S. Main St. (tel. 901/526-0052), near Calhoun Street. This historic railway station has been completely renovated into a combination transportation center with public bus and Main Street Trolley connections and retail complex.

Staying Connected

Most coffee shops and hotels, along with many restaurants and bookstores in Nashville and Memphis, have free Wi-Fi access. Nashville was at the forefront of the connectivity trend a few years ago, when its Centennial Park, in the city's affluent West End, became one of the first in the nation to offer free Wi-Fi.

Throughout this guide, we've indicated which hotels offer Wi-Fi and high-speed Internet access.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

While lacking the vibrancy of many larger U.S. cities, both Nashville and Memphis have much to offer gay travelers. Church Street near downtown is the most well known gay district in Nashville. To find out more about the Nashville gay and lesbian community, contact OutLoud! Book Store, 1703 Church St. (tel. 615/340-0034; www.outloudonline.com). Nashville also has several gay and lesbian newspapers, including the entertainment weekly Xenogeny (tel. 615/831-1806).

In Memphis, volunteers staff the Memphis Gay and Lesbian Community Center, 892 S. Cooper (tel. 901/278-4297) nightly. The Cooper-Young neighborhood is widely regarded as the most gay-friendly area of town. For more information, look for the Memphis Triangle Journal, a free weekly newspaper that's available at local bookstores, libraries, and other locations.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- The telephone area code in Memphis is 901.

Business Hours -- Banks are generally open Monday to Thursday 8:30am to 4pm, with later hours on Friday. Office hours in Memphis are usually Monday to Friday 8:30am to 5pm. In general, stores located in downtown Memphis are open Monday to Saturday 10am to 5:30pm. Shops in suburban Memphis malls are generally open Monday to Saturday 10am to 9pm and on Sunday 1 to 5 or 6pm. Bars are allowed to stay open until 3am, but may close between 1 and 3am.

Emergencies -- For police, fire, or medical emergencies, phone tel. 911.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- At press time, the average price for a gallon of gasoline in Memphis was $2.45. Taxes are already included in the printed price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons.

Hospitals -- Major hospitals in the downtown/Midtown areas are Methodist Healthcare, at 1211 Union Ave. (tel. 901/516-7000), and the Regional Medical Center/Elvis Presley Trauma Center, at 877 Jefferson Ave. (tel. 901/545-7100).

Insurance -- For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Internet Access -- Free Internet access is available in most coffee shops and many restaurants around town. Computers with Internet access are also available at public libraries and FedEx Office.

Newspapers & Magazines -- The Commercial Appeal is Memphis's daily newspaper. The arts-and-entertainment weekly is the Memphis Flyer. Out-of-town newspapers are available at Davis-Kidd Booksellers and Borders.

Police -- For police emergencies, phone tel. 911.

Smoking -- Smoking is banned in most workplaces and inside restaurants (patios are an exception), but is allowed in bars and establishments exclusively for people over 21.

Taxes -- The state sales tax is 9.25%. An additional room tax of 6.7% on top of the state sales tax brings the total hotel-room tax to a whopping 15.95%.

The United States has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the national level. Every state, county, and city may levy its own local tax on all purchases, including hotel and restaurant checks and airline tickets. These taxes will not appear on price tags.

Visitor Information -- The city's main visitor information center, located downtown at the base of Jefferson Street, is the Tennessee State Welcome Center, 119 N. Riverside Dr. (tel. 901/543-6757). It's open daily 24 hours but staffed only between 8am and 7pm (until 8pm in the summer months). Inside this large information center, you'll find soaring statues of both Elvis and B. B. King.

At the airport, you'll find information boards with telephone numbers for contacting hotels and numbers for other helpful services. Other visitor centers are located off I-40, just east of the Memphis city limits, and at Elvis Presley Boulevard just north of Graceland.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Virtually every air traveler entering the U.S. is required to show a passport. All persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda are required to present a valid passport. U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U.S. at land and sea ports of entry from within the Western Hemisphere will need to present government-issued proof of citizenship, such as a birth certificate, along with a government issued photo ID, such as a driver's license. A passport is not required for U.S. or Canadian citizens entering by land or sea, but it is highly encouraged to carry one.

Visas

The U.S. Department of State has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of the following countries to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. Citizens of Czech Republic, Estonia, Hungary, Latvia, Lithuania, Malta, Republic of Korea, and Slovakia are soon to be admitted to the VWP. (Note: This list was accurate at press time; for the most up-to-date list of countries in the VWP, consult http://travel.state.gov/visa.) Even though a visa isn't necessary, in an effort to help U.S. officials check travelers against terror watch lists before they arrive at U.S. borders, visitors from VWP countries must register online through the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) before boarding a plane or a boat to the U.S. Travelers will complete an electronic application providing basic personal and travel eligibility information. The Department of Homeland Security recommends filling out the form at least 3 days before traveling. Authorizations will be valid for up to 2 years or until the traveler's passport expires, whichever comes first. Currently, there is no fee for the online application. Note: Any passport issued on or after October 26, 2006, by a VWP country must be an e-Passport in order for VWP travelers to be eligible to enter the U.S. without a visa. Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. E-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing biometric information, such as the required digital photograph of the holder. If your passport doesn't have this feature, you can still travel without a visa if it is a valid passport issued before October 26, 2005, and includes a machine-readable zone, or between October 26, 2005, and October 25, 2006, and includes a digital photograph. For more information, go to http://travel.state.gov/visa. Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas; they will need to show passports (if traveling by air) and proof of residence, however.

Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the U.S., and (2) a tourist visa.

Customs

What You Can Bring Into the U.S. -- Every visitor more than 21 years of age may bring in, free of duty, the following: (1) 34 ounces of wine or hard liquor; (2) 200 cigarettes, 100 cigars (but not from Cuba), or 3 pounds of smoking tobacco; and (3) $100 worth of gifts. These exemptions are offered to travelers who spend at least 72 hours in the United States and who have not claimed them within the preceding 6 months. It is forbidden to bring into the country almost any meat products (including canned, fresh, and dried meat products such as bullion, soup mixes, and such). Generally, condiments including vinegars, oils, spices, coffee, tea, and some cheeses and baked goods are permitted. Avoid rice products, as rice can often harbor insects. Bringing fruits and vegetables is not advised, though not prohibited. Customs will allow produce depending on where you got it and where you're going after you arrive in the U.S. International visitors may carry in or out up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs on entering or leaving, which includes filing form CM 4790. For details regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or U.S. Customs (www.customs.gov).

What You Can Take Home from the U.S. -- For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Revenue & Customs (tel. 0845/010-9000, or 020/8929-0152 from outside the U.K.; www.hmce.gov.uk).

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs and Border Protection Service (tel. 1300/363-263; www.customs.gov.au).

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs Service, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States.