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An oasis of elegance and fine living, the Four Seasons is not only one of the best hotels in the Distrito Federal, it's considered, by many, to be one of the finest in the nation. That evaluation starts with the rooms, which are immaculate, decadently over-sized (and high ceilinged) with a serenity that comes from the fact that most surround a lush, fruit-tree-and-orchid-laden courtyard in this colonial-style building. All 240 have soothing palettes of taupes and creams and such niceties as deep-soaking tubs, iPod docking stations, and huge flat-screen TVs. The on-site restaurant, Reforma 500, serves a Mediterranean-inspired menu, often to live music (but doesn't offer dinner service on the weekends). The spa is state-of-the-art and the outdoor pool is always warm enough for swimming, even in the colder months.  But the real mark of a fine hotel is its service and here it is almost grandmotherly in its warmth. The concierges, in particular, are masters at their trade, magically pulling out restaurant reservations at places that fill up weeks in advance, arranging wonderful guided tours, and making each guest feel uniquely pampered.