On the bottom level is a food court, with both prepared foods and glossy fresh produce; upstairs is this woodsy, atmospheric restaurant dedicated to Oaxacan cuisine. That mountainous state is blessed with a wide variety of microclimates, so many different types of food are grow there as you'll discover when you confront the daunting task of deciding what to order at Pasillo de Humo. The lowdown: the moles reign supreme, though they may surprise diners who've only tried that dish in the United States. Here they tend to be more subtle than sweet, and with a wide range of proteins. Leave room for some chocolate—Oaxaca is known for that sweet treat, which is made with water not milk in Oaxaca. Be sure to say Alam Mendez, the charismatic chef who makes it a point to greet every guest.