Planning a trip to Mexico

Staying Healthy

For the latest info on health risks when traveling to Mexico, and what to do if you get sick, consult the U.S. Department of State's website (www.travel.state.gov), the CDC website (www.cdc.gov), or the World Health Organization website (www.who.int).

General Availability of Healthcare

In most of Mexico's resort destinations, you can usually find healthcare that meets U.S. standards. Care in more remote areas is limited. Standards of medical training, patient care, and business practices vary greatly among medical facilities in beach resorts throughout Mexico. Cancún has first-rate hospitals, for example, but other cities along the Caribbean coast often do not. In recent years, some U.S. citizens have complained that certain healthcare facilities in beach resorts have taken advantage of them by overcharging or providing unnecessary medical care. On the other hand, Mexican doctors often spend more time with patients than doctors do north of the border, and may be just as good for less cost. Only rudimentary healthcare is generally available in much of Chiapas, Tabasco, and the Yucatán.

Prescription medicine is broadly available at Mexico pharmacies, and many drugs that in the U.S. require a prescription can be obtained in Mexico simply by asking. However, be aware that you may still need a copy of your prescription or may need to obtain a prescription from a local doctor.

Over-the-Counter Drugs in Mexico -- Antibiotics and other drugs that you'd need a prescription to buy in the States are often available over the counter in Mexican pharmacies. Mexican pharmacies also carry a limited selection of common over-the-counter cold, sinus, and allergy remedies. Contact lenses can be purchased without an exam or prescription.

Common Ailments

Sun/Elements/Extreme Weather Exposure -- Mexico is synonymous with sunshine; much of the country is bathed in intense sunshine for much of the year. Avoid excessive exposure, especially in the tropics where UV rays are more dangerous. The hottest months in Mexico's south are April and May, but the sun is intense most of the year.

Dietary Red Flags -- Travelers' diarrhea -- often accompanied by fever, nausea, and vomiting -- used to attack many travelers to Mexico. (Some in the U.S. call this "Montezuma's revenge," but you won't hear it called that in Mexico.) Widespread improvements in infrastructure, sanitation, and education have greatly diminished this ailment, especially in well-developed resort areas. Most travelers make a habit of drinking only bottled water, which also helps to protect against unfamiliar bacteria. In resort areas, and generally throughout Mexico, only purified ice is used. If you do come down with this ailment, nothing beats Pepto Bismol, readily available in Mexico. Imodium is also available in Mexico and is used by many travelers for a quick fix. A good high-potency (or "therapeutic") vitamin supplement and even extra vitamin C can help; yogurt is good for healthy digestion.

Because dehydration can quickly become life-threatening, be careful to replace fluids and electrolytes (potassium, sodium, and the like) during a bout of diarrhea. Drink Pedialyte, a rehydration solution available at most Mexican pharmacies, or natural fruit juice, such as guava or apple (stay away from orange juice, which has laxative properties), with a pinch of salt added.

The U.S. Public Health Service recommends the following measures for preventing travelers' diarrhea: Drink only purified water (boiled water, canned or bottled beverages, beer, or wine). Choose food carefully. In general, avoid salads (except in first-class restaurants), uncooked vegetables, undercooked protein, and unpasteurized milk or milk products, including cheese. Choose food that is freshly cooked and still hot. Avoid eating food prepared by street vendors. In addition, something as simple as clean hands can go a long way toward preventing an upset stomach.

High-Altitude Hazards -- Travelers to certain regions of Mexico occasionally experience elevation sickness, which results from the relative lack of oxygen and the decrease in barometric pressure that characterizes high elevations (more than 1,500m/5,000 ft.). Symptoms include shortness of breath, fatigue, headache, insomnia, and even nausea. Mexico City is at 2,240m (7,349 ft.) above sea level, and a number of other central and southern cities, such as San Cristóbal de las Casas, are as high as or even higher than Mexico City. At high elevations, it takes about 10 days to acquire the extra red blood corpuscles you need to adjust to the scarcity of oxygen. To help your body acclimate, drink plenty of fluids, avoid alcohol, and don't overexert yourself during the first few days. If you have heart or lung trouble, consult your doctor before traveling to places above 2,400m (7,872 ft.).

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- Mosquitoes and gnats are prevalent along the coast and in the Yucatán lowlands. Repelente contra insectos (insect repellent) is a must, and you can buy it in most pharmacies. If you'll be in these areas and are prone to bites, bring along a repellent that contains the active ingredient DEET. Another good remedy to keep the mosquitoes away is to mix citronella essential oil with basil, clove, and lavender essential oils. If you're sensitive to bites, pick up some antihistamine cream from a drugstore at home.

Most readers won't ever see an alacrán (scorpion). But if one stings you, go immediately to a doctor. The one lethal scorpion found in some parts of Mexico is the Centruroides, part of the Buthidae family, characterized by a thin body, thick tail and triangular-shaped sternum. Most deaths from these scorpions result within 24 hours of the sting as a result of respiratory or cardiovascular failure, with children and elderly people most at risk. Scorpions are not aggressive (they don't hunt for prey), but they may sting if touched, especially in their hiding places (which can include shoes). In Mexico, you can buy scorpion-toxin antidote at any drugstore. It is an injection, and it costs around $25. This is a good idea if you plan to camp in a remote area, where medical assistance can be several hours away. Note that not all scorpion bites are lethal, but a doctor's visit is recommended regardless.

Tropical Illnesses -- You shouldn't be overly concerned about tropical diseases if you stay on the normal tourist routes and don't eat street food. However, both dengue fever and cholera have appeared in Mexico in recent years. Talk to your doctor or to a medical specialist in tropical diseases about precautions you should take. You can protect yourself by taking some simple precautions: Watch what you eat and drink; don't swim in stagnant water (ponds, slow-moving rivers, or wells); and avoid mosquito bites by covering up, using repellent, and sleeping under netting. The most dangerous areas seem to be on Mexico's west coast, away from the big resorts.

On occasion, coastal waters from the Gulf of Mexico can become contaminated with rapid growth in algae (phytoplankton), leading to a phenomenon known as harmful algal bloom or a "red tide." The algal release of neurotoxins threatens marine life and can cause rashes and even flulike symptoms in exposed humans. Although red tides happen infrequently, you should not enter the water if you notice a reddish-brown color or are told there is a red tide.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Mexico presents a challenging course to travelers in wheelchairs or on crutches. At airports, you may encounter steep stairs before finding a well-hidden elevator or escalator -- if one exists. Airlines will often arrange wheelchair assistance to the baggage area. Porters are generally available to help with luggage at airports and large bus stations, once you've cleared baggage claim.

Mexican airports are upgrading their services, but you may still occasionally board from a remote position, meaning you either descend stairs to a bus that ferries you to the plane, which you board by climbing stairs, or you walk across the tarmac to your plane and ascend the stairs. Deplaning presents the same problem in reverse.

Escalators (and there aren't many in the country) are often out of order. Stairs without handrails abound. Few restrooms are equipped for travelers with disabilities; when one is available, access to it may be through a narrow passage that won't accommodate a wheelchair or a person on crutches. Many deluxe hotels (the most expensive) now have rooms with bathrooms designed for people with disabilities. Those traveling on a budget should stick with one-story hotels or hotels with elevators. Even so, there will probably still be obstacles somewhere. Generally speaking, no matter where you are, someone will lend a hand, although you may have to ask for it.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Mexico is a conservative country, with deeply rooted Catholic religious traditions. Public displays of same-sex affection are rare and still considered surprising for men, especially outside of urban or resort areas. Women in Mexico frequently walk hand in hand, but anything more crosses the boundary of acceptability. However, gay and lesbian travelers are generally treated with respect and should not experience harassment, assuming they give the appropriate regard to local customs.

On December 21, 2009, Mexico City became the first Latin American jurisdiction to legalize same-sex marriage, and 14th overall after the Netherlands, Belgium, Spain, Canada, South Africa, Norway, Sweden, and six U.S. jurisdictions.

While much of Mexico is socially conservative, Cancún and Playa del Carmen are not. Popular with many gay travelers, both coastal resorts offer gay-friendly accommodations, bars, and activities. For more information, visit MexGay Vacations at www.mexgay.com. Information about gay-friendly accommodations is available at www.gayplaces2stay.com.

Tips for Families

Children are considered the national treasure of Mexico, and Mexicans will warmly welcome and cater to your children. Many parents were reluctant to bring young children into Mexico in the past, primarily due to health concerns, but I can't think of a better place to introduce children to the exciting adventure of exploring a different culture. One of the best destinations for kids is Cancún. Hotels can often arrange for a babysitter.

Before leaving, ask your doctor which medications to take along. Disposable diapers cost about the same in Mexico but are of poorer quality. You can get Huggies Supreme and Pampers identical to the ones sold in the United States, but at a higher price. Many stores sell Gerber's baby foods. Dry cereals, powdered formulas, baby bottles, and purified water are easily available in midsize and large cities or resorts.

Only the largest and most luxurious hotels provide cribs. However, rollaway beds are often available. Child seats or high chairs at restaurants are common. Consider bringing your own car seat; they are not readily available for rent in Mexico.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Mexico's ecological diversity is among the broadest of any country in the world, with an abundance of ecosystems ranging from the northern deserts to the central conifer forests, and the southern tropical rainforests. Mexico also supports 111 million people and welcomes more than 20 million visitors each year. Tourism is one of the country's biggest and most lucrative industries, and while tourism has brought jobs and growth to much of Mexico, it has also created and even accelerated many of Mexico's ecological problems. Cancún might be the highest-profile example: Rapidly developed from a rural outpost to an international resort destination, Cancún imported turf from Florida for its golf courses, inadvertently introducing a disease that wiped out the local coconut palms. The region's mangroves, a key habitat for native species and vital to protecting the land from hurricanes and erosion, have also suffered.

However, tourism has also encouraged development of ecological conservation. Mexico is home to seven of the world's eight species of sea turtle, though the entire turtle population was decimated on both coasts as a result of tourism growth and local overfishing. Recent success stories such as Puerto Escondido, in Oaxaca, where sea turtles are now protected by the locals, or the Riviera Maya, in the Yucatán, where marine biologists are working with hotels to guard nesting turtles and their eggs, have demonstrated the benefits of linking tourism with local knowledge.

Mexico's people are proud of their land and culture, and through your travels, especially in rural areas, you will likely encounter ejidos and cooperativos, or local cooperatives, that offer small-scale tourism services -- this may be as simple as taking visitors on a boat ride through a lake or as visible as controlling access to archaeological ruins. Ejidos will also run tours to popular ecotourism destinations similar to those offered by large travel agencies. When you deal with ejidos, everyone you encounter will be from the community and you know that your money goes directly back to them. States with a strong network of cooperatives include Chiapas, Oaxaca, Quintana Roo, and Yucatán.

The Mexican Caribbean supports the Great Mesoamerican Barrier Reef, the second-largest reef in the world, which extends down to Honduras. This reef and other marine ecosystems face increasing pressure from sedimentation, pollution, overfishing, and exploitative recreational activities, all newly associated with growing regional tourism. The Coral Reef Alliance (CORAL; www.coral.org) is an example of an organization that, by teaming up with the World Wildlife Fund (WWF; www.wwf.org) and United Nations Environmental Programme (UNEP; www.unep.org), has been working to address threats to the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef and improve environmental sustainability throughout the region. CORAL partners with Mexican Amigos de Sian Ka'an, Conservation International, and the Cozumel Reefs National Park in an effort to build sustainability into mass tourism (such as cruise ships and hotels). CORAL assists marine tourism operators in implementing a voluntary code of conduct for best environmental practices. CORAL is soon to spread its influence to the Yum Balam region of the Yucatán Peninsula, where guidelines for whale shark interactions are greatly needed.

Biodegradable Sunscreen -- Recent scientific studies have shown that the chemicals in commercial sunscreen can do long-term damage to coral reefs, collect in fresh water, and even build up in your own body system. The Riviera Maya, Mexico's Caribbean Coast, receives more than 2.5 million visitors every year, many of them drawn to its rare marine environment -- a unique combination of freshwater cenotes and the world's second-largest coral reef. A few ounces of sunscreen multiplied by 2.5 million is equal to a substantial amount of harmful chemicals suspended in the ocean and fresh water. That's why tours to the Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve and water parks Xcaret and Xel-Ha ask that you use only biodegradable sunscreen or wear none at all when swimming in their ocean or cenotes.

The label of a biodegradable sunscreen should state that it is 100% biodegradable (and only 100% will do). You can buy it at the parks, but you'll get a better price from local markets. If you're curious, you can obtain a list of banned chemicals by contacting the parks directly. Buy a supply of biodegradable formula before you go from www.mexitan.com or www.caribbean-sol.com.

Animal-Rights Issues

Bullfights -- Bullfighting is considered an important part of Latin culture, but before you attend a correo, you should know that in all likelihood the bulls (at least four) will ultimately be killed in a gory show. That said, a bullfight is a portal into understanding Mexico's Spanish colonial past, and traditional machismo is on full display. Bullfights take place in towns as different as Tijuana and Puerto Vallarta, and they afford a colorful spectacle like no other, with a brass band playing; the costumed matador's macho stare; men shaking their heads at less-than-perfect swipes of the cape; and overly made-up, bloodthirsty women chanting "Ole," waving their white hankies, and throwing roses, jackets, and hats at the matador's feet. There is also the extremely minuscule chance that if the bull puts up a good enough fight or pierces his horn through the matador's leg, he will be spared for breeding purposes. It does happen, if only rarely. To read more about the implications of attending bullfights, see the website of People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) at www.peta.org.

Swimming with Dolphins -- The capture of wild dolphins was outlawed in Mexico in 2002. The only dolphins added to the country's dolphin swim programs since then were born in captivity. This law may have eased concerns about the death and implications of capturing wild dolphins, but the controversy is not over. Local organizations have been known to staple notes to Dolphin Discovery ads in magazines distributed in Cancún hotels. Marine biologists who run the dolphin swim programs say the mammals are thriving and that the programs provide a forum for research, conservation, education, and rescue operations. Animal rights advocates maintain that keeping these intelligent mammals in captivity is nothing more than exploitation. Their argument is that these private dolphin programs don't qualify as "public display" under the Marine Mammal Protection Act because the entry fees bar most of the public from participating.

Visit the website of the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society at www.wdcs.org or the American Cetacean Society, www.acsonline.org, for further discussion on the topic.

Visitor Information

The Mexico Tourism Board (tel. 800/44-MEXICO in the U.S., or 01-800/006-8839 or 078 from within Mexico; www.visitmexico.com) is an excellent source for general information; you can request brochures and get answers to the most common questions from the exceptionally well-trained, knowledgeable staff. You can also call the Cancún location at tel. 998/884-8073.

The Mexican Government Tourist Board's main office is in Mexico City (tel. 55/5278-4200). Satellite offices in the U.S. are in Chicago (tel. 312/228-0517), Houston (tel. 713/772-2581), Los Angeles (tel. 213/739-6336), Miami (tel. 786/621-2909), and New York (tel. 212/308-2110). In Canada, you may call the Toronto office at tel. 416/925-0704; and in the United Kingdom, offices are in London (tel. 020/7488-9392).

The Chiapas Tourism Board is at Blvd. Belisario Dominguez 950, CP29060 Tuxtla Gutiérrez, Chiapas (tel. 961/613-9396). The Quintana Roo Tourist Board is at Carr. a. Calderitas 622, CP77010 Chetumal, Quintana Roo (tel. 983/835-0860). The Tabasco Tourism Board is at Av. Los Rios s/n, Tabasco 2000, CP86035 Villahermosa, Tabasco (tel. 993/316-5134). The Yucatán Tourism Board is at Calle 59 No. 514, Centro, CP97000 Mérida, Yucatán (tel. 999/924-9389).

The Mexican Embassy in Canada is at 45 O'Connor St., Suite 1000, Ottawa, ON, K1P 1A4 (tel. 613/233-8988; fax 613/235-9123). Consulate offices are at 2055 rue Peel, Bureau 1000, Montreal, QC, H3A 1V4 (tel. 514/288-2502); Commerce Court West, 199 Bay St., Suite 4440, Toronto, ON, M5L 1E9 (tel. 416/368-2875); and 411-1177 W. Hastings St., 4th Floor, Vancouver, BC, V6E 2K3 (tel. 604/684-1859).

The Mexican Embassy (Consular Section) in the United Kingdom is at 16 Georges St., London, W1S1FD (tel. 020/7499-8586).

The Mexican Embassy in the United States is at 1911 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20006 (tel. 202/736-1600).

Staying Connected

Telephones

Mexico's telephone system is slowly catching up with modern times. Most telephone numbers have 10 digits. Every city and town with telephone access has a two-digit (Mexico City, Monterrey, and Guadalajara) or three-digit (everywhere else) area code. In Mexico City, Monterrey, and Guadalajara, local numbers have eight digits; elsewhere, local numbers have seven digits. To place a local call, you do not need to dial the area code. Many fax numbers are also regular phone numbers; ask whoever answers for the fax tone ("me da tono de fax, por favor").

The country code for Mexico is 52.

To call Mexico:

1. Dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S. and Canada; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia.

2. Dial the country code: 52.

3. Dial the two- or three-digit area code, then the eight- or seven-digit number. For example, if you wanted to call the U.S. consular agent in Acapulco, the entire number would be 011-52-744-484-0300. If you wanted to dial the U.S. embassy in Mexico City, the entire number would be 011-52-55-5080-2000.

To make international calls: To make international calls from Mexico, dial 00, then the country code (U.S. and Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next, dial the area code and number. For example, to call the British Embassy in Washington, you would dial 00-1-202-588-7800.

To call a Mexican cellular number: From the same area code, dial 044 and then the number. To dial the cellular phone from anywhere else in Mexico, first dial 01, and then the three-digit area code and the seven-digit number. To place an international call to a cellphone (e.g., from the U.S.), you now must add a 1 after the country code: for example, 011-52-1 + 10-digit number.

For directory assistance: Dial tel. 040 if you're looking for a number inside Mexico. Note: Listings usually appear under the owner's name, not the name of the business, and your chances of finding an English-speaking operator are slim.

For operator assistance: If you need operator assistance in making a call, dial tel. 090 to make an international call, and tel. 020 to call a number in Mexico.

Toll-free numbers: Numbers beginning with 800 within Mexico are toll-free, but calling a U.S. toll-free number from Mexico costs the same as an overseas call. To call an 800 number in the U.S., dial 001-880 and the last seven digits of the toll-free number. To call an 888 number in the U.S., dial 001-881 and the last seven digits of the toll-free number. For a number with an 887 prefix, dial 882; for 866, dial 883.

Mobile Phones

Telcel is Mexico's expensive, primary cellphone provider. It has upgraded its systems to GSM and offers good coverage in much of the country, including the major cities and resorts. Most Mexicans buy cellphones without a specific coverage plan and then pay as they go or purchase prepaid cards with set amounts of air-time credit. These cellphone cards with scratch-off pin numbers can be purchased in Telcel stores as well as many newspaper stands and convenience stores.

Many North American and European cellphone companies offer networks with roaming coverage in Mexico. Rates can be very high, so check with your provider before committing to making calls this way. An increasing number of Mexicans, particularly among the younger generation, prefer the less expensive rates of Nextel (www.nextel.com.mx), which features a range of service options. Cellular Abroad (www.cellularabroad.com) offers cellphone rentals and purchases as well as SIM cards for travel abroad. Whether you rent or purchase the cellphone, you need to purchase a SIM card that is specific for Mexico.

Internet & Wi-Fi

Mexico's largest airports offer Wi-Fi access provided for a fee by Telcel's Prodigy Internet service. Most five-star hotels now offer Wi-Fi in the guest rooms for free or for a fee. Hotel lobbies often have Wi-Fi as well. To find public Wi-Fi hotspots in Mexico, go to www.jiwire.com; its Hotspot Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hotspots.

Many large Mexican airports have Internet kiosks, and quality Mexican hotels usually have business centers with Internet access. You can also check out such copy stores as FedEx Office or OfficeMax, which offer computer stations with fully loaded software (as well as Wi-Fi).

Calendar of Events

Religious and secular festivals are a part of life in Mexico. Every town, city, and state holds its own festivals throughout the year commemorating religious and historic figures. Indeed, in certain parts of the country it sometimes feels like the festivities never die down.

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, see http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

Año Nuevo (New Year's Day), nationwide. This national holiday is perhaps the quietest day in Mexico. Most people stay home or attend church. All businesses are closed. In traditional indigenous communities, new tribal leaders are inaugurated with colorful ceremonies rooted in the pre-Hispanic past. January 1.

Día de los Reyes (Three Kings' Day), nationwide. This day commemorates the Three Kings' presenting gifts to the Christ Child. Children receive presents, much like they do at Christmas in the United States. Friends and families gather to share the Rosca de Reyes, a special cake. Inside the cake is a small doll representing the Christ Child; whoever receives the doll must host a tamales-and-atole (a warm drink made of corn dough) party on February 2. January 6.

Feast of San Antonio Abad, Mexico City. This feast is celebrated through the Blessing of the Animals at the Santiago Tlatelolco Church on the Plaza of Three Cultures, at San Juan Bautista Church in Coyoacán, and at the Church of San Fernando, 2 blocks north of the Juárez-Reforma intersection. January 17.

Regional Fair, León, Guanajuato. One of Mexico's largest fairs celebrates the founding of this shoemaking and leather-craft city. The fair features parades, theater, craft exhibits, music, and dance. Month of January.

February

Día de la Candelaria (Candlemas), nationwide. Music, dances, processions, food, and other festivities lead up to a blessing of seed and candles in a ceremony that mixes pre-Hispanic and European traditions marking the end of winter. Those who attended the Three Kings celebration reunite to share atole and tamales at a party hosted by the recipient of the doll found in the Rosca. Celebrations are especially festive in Tlacotalpan, Veracruz. February 2.

Día de la Constitución (Constitution Day), nationwide. This national holiday is in honor of the current Mexican constitution, signed in 1917 as a result of the revolutionary war of 1910. It's celebrated through small parades. February 5.

Carnaval, nationwide. Carnaval takes place the 3 days preceding Ash Wednesday and the beginning of Lent. The cities of Tepoztlán, Huejotzingo, Chamula, Veracruz, Cozumel, and Mazatlán celebrate with special gusto. In some places, such as Veracruz, Mazatlán, and Cozumel, the celebration resembles New Orleans's Mardi Gras, with a festive atmosphere and parades. In Chamula, the event harks back to pre-Hispanic times, with ritualistic running on flaming branches. On Shrove Tuesday, in Tepoztlán and Huejotzingo, brilliantly clad chinelos (masked dancers) fill the streets. Transportation and hotels are packed, so it's best to make reservations 6 months in advance and arrive a couple of days ahead of the beginning of celebrations.

Ash Wednesday, nationwide. The start of Lent and time of abstinence, this is a day of reverence nationwide; some towns honor it with folk dancing and fairs.

March

Annual Witches Conference, Lake Catemaco, Veracruz. Shamans, white witches, black witches, and practitioners of Caribbean, Afro, and Antillean ritualistic practices gather on the shores of the lake. Taking place the first Friday night of March every year, the annual gathering is a spectacle of witches, healers, magicians, and wizards.

Benito Juárez's Birthday, nationwide. This national holiday celebrating one of Mexico's most beloved leaders is observed through small hometown celebrations, especially in Juárez's birthplace, Guelatao, Oaxaca. March 21.

Spring Equinox, Chichén Itzá. On the first day of spring, the Temple of Kukulkán -- Chichén Itzá's main pyramid -- aligns with the sun, and the shadow of the plumed serpent moves slowly from the top of the building down. When the shadow reaches the bottom, the body joins the carved stone snake's head at the base of the pyramid. According to ancient legend, at the moment that the serpent is whole, the earth is fertilized. Visitors come from around the world to marvel at this sight, so advance arrangements are advisable. Elsewhere, equinox festivals and celebrations welcome spring, in the custom of the ancient Mexicans, with dances and prayers to the elements and the four cardinal points. It's customary to wear white with a red ribbon. March 21 (the shadow appears Mar 19-23).

Festival de México en el Centro Histórico (Annual Mexico City Festival), Mexico City. Regarded as one of Latin America's most vibrant celebrations of art and culture, this 2-week festival features diverse events including opera, concerts, theater, art exhibits, dance productions, and gourmet fare. Proceeds go toward the rescue and restoration of the art and architecture of Mexico City's historic downtown area. For a detailed schedule and more information, visit www.festival.org.mx. Mid- to late March, depending on Easter.

April

Semana Santa (Holy Week), nationwide. Mexico celebrates the last week in the life of Christ, from Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday, with somber religious processions, spoofing of Judas, and reenactments of biblical events, plus food and craft fairs. Among the Tarahumara Indians in the Copper Canyon, celebrations have pre-Hispanic overtones. Pátzcuaro, Taxco, and Malinalco hold special celebrations. Businesses close during this traditional week of Mexican national vacations.

If you plan to travel to or around Mexico during Holy Week, make your reservations early. Flights into and out of the country will be full months in advance. Buses to these towns and to almost anywhere else in Mexico will be full, so try arriving on the Wednesday or Thursday before Good Friday. Easter Sunday is quiet, and the week following is a traditional vacation period. Early April.

San Marcos National Fair, Aguascalientes. Mexico's largest fair, first held in 1604, lasts 22 days. About a million visitors come for bullfights and rodeos, as well as ranchera music and mariachis. There are craft and industrial exhibits, markets, fireworks, and folk dancing. Mid-April.

May

Labor Day, nationwide. Workers' parades countrywide; everything closes. May 1.

Cinco de Mayo, Puebla and nationwide. This national holiday celebrates the defeat of the French at the Battle of Puebla. May 5.

Feast of San Isidro, nationwide. A blessing of seeds and work animals honors the patron saint of farmers. May 15.

Cancún Jazz Festival. Over Memorial Day weekend, the Parque de las Palapas, as well as the area around the Convention Center, has live performances from jazz musicians from around the world. For dates and schedule information, check www.cancun.eventguide.com.

International Gay Festival. This weekend event in Cancún kicks off with a welcome fiesta of food, drinks, and mariachi music. Additional festivities include a tequila party, tour of Cancún, sunset Caribbean cruise, bar and beach parties, and a final champagne breakfast. For information, check www.cancun.eventguide.com.

June

Día de la Marina (Navy Day), various towns. All coastal towns celebrate the holiday, with naval parades and fireworks. June 1.

Corpus Christi, nationwide. This day, celebrated nationwide, honors the Body of Christ (the Eucharist) with processions, Masses, and food. Festivities include performances of voladores (flying pole dancers) beside the church and at the ruins of El Tajín, Veracruz. In Mexico City, children dressed as Indians and carrying decorated baskets of fruit for the priest's blessing gather with their parents before the National Cathedral. Mulitas (mules), handmade from dried cornhusks and painted, are traditionally sold outside all churches on that day to represent a prayer for fertility. Dates vary, but celebrations take place on the Thursday following "Holy Trinity" Sunday.

National Ceramics Fair and Fiesta, Tlaquepaque, Jalisco. This pottery center on the outskirts of Guadalajara offers craft demonstrations and competitions, as well as mariachis, dancers, and colorful parades. June 14 to July 14.

Día de San Pedro y San Pablo (St. Peter and St. Paul Day), nationwide. This feast day is celebrated wherever St. Peter is the patron saint; it also honors anyone named Pedro or Peter. It's especially festive at San Pedro Tlaquepaque, near Guadalajara, with mariachi bands, folk dancers, and parades with floats. June 29.

July

Guelaguetza Dance Festival, Oaxaca. This is one of Mexico's most popular events. Villagers from the seven regions around Oaxaca gather in the city's amphitheater. They dress in traditional costumes, and many wear colorful "dancing" masks. The celebration dates from pre-Hispanic times. Make advance reservations -- this festival attracts visitors from around the world. Check out www.visitmexico.com for more details. Late July.

August

International Chamber Music Festival, San Miguel de Allende. Held since 1982 in this beautiful town, the festival features international award-winning classical music ensembles. See www.festivalsanmiguel.com for details. July 30 to August 15.

Fall of Tenochtitlán, Mexico City. The last battle of the Spanish Conquest took place at Tlatelolco, ruins that are now part of the Plaza of Three Cultures. Wreath-laying ceremonies there and at the Cuauhtémoc monument on Reforma commemorate the surrender of Cuauhtémoc, the last Aztec king, to Cortez, and the loss of thousands of lives. August 13.

Assumption of the Virgin Mary, nationwide. This day is celebrated throughout the country with special Masses and, in some places, with processions. In Huamantla, flower petals and colored sawdust carpet the streets. At midnight on August 15, a statue of the Virgin is carried through the streets; on August 16 is the running of the bulls. On August 15 in Santa Clara del Cobre, near Pátzcuaro, Our Lady of Santa Clara de Asis and the Virgen de la Sagrado Patrona are honored with a parade of floats, dancers on the main square, and an exposition of regional crafts. Buses to Huamantla from Puebla and Mexico City will be full, and there are few hotels in Huamantla. Plan to stay in Puebla and commute to the festivities. August 15 to 17.

Fiestas de la Vendimia (Wine Harvest Festival), Ensenada, Baja California. This food and wine festival celebrates the annual harvest, with blessings, seminars, parties, and wine tastings. Check out www.visitmexico.com for more details. Mid- to late August.

September

International Mariachi Festival, Guadalajara, Jalisco. These public concerts of mariachi music include visiting mariachi groups from around the world (even Japan!). Workshops and lectures focus on the history, culture, and music of the mariachi in Mexico. Check www.mariachi-jalisco.com.mx to confirm dates and the performance schedule. August 30 to September 9.

Reto al Tepozteco (Tepozteco Challenge), Tepoztlán, Morelos. This celebration of King Tepoztecatl's conversion to the Catholic religion includes a performance depicting the event. A procession leads toward the Tepozteco Pyramid, where people offer food and beverages. This event includes hypnotic chinelo dances, fireworks, and a food festival. September 7 and 8.

Independence Day, nationwide. Celebrates Mexico's independence from Spain with parades, picnics, and family reunions. At 11pm on September 15, the president gives the famous independence grito (shout) from the National Palace in Mexico City. At least half a million people crowd into the zócalo (main plaza), and the rest of the country watches on TV or participates in local celebrations. Tall buildings downtown are draped in the national colors (red, green, and white), and the zócalo is ablaze with lights. Many people drive downtown at night to see the lights. Querétaro and San Miguel de Allende, where Independence conspirators lived and met, also celebrate elaborately; the schedule of events is exactly the same in every village, town, and city across Mexico. September 15 and 16.

Fall Equinox, Chichén Itzá. The same shadow play that occurs during the spring equinox is repeated. September 21 and 22.

October

Fiestas de Octubre (October Festivals), Guadalajara. This "most Mexican of cities" celebrates for a month with its trademark mariachi music. It's a bountiful display of popular culture and fine arts, and a spectacular spread of traditional food, Mexican beer, and wine. All month.

Festival Internacional Cervantino, Guanajuato. This festival began in the 1970s as a cultural event, bringing performing artists from all over the world to this picturesque village northeast of Mexico City. Now the artists travel all over the republic after appearing in Guanajuato. Check www.festivalcervantino.gob.mx for details. Mid- to late October.

Día de la Raza ("Ethnicity Day," or Columbus Day), nationwide. This day commemorates the fusion of the Spanish and Mexican peoples. October 12.

Feria Nacional del Mole, Mexico City. Just south of Mexico City, thousands of varieties of mole will be prepared for sampling and competition. This spicy sauce is a Mexican staple, made of unsweetened chocolate, peppers, and spices, often served with meat or poultry. Between October 1 and 15.

November

Day of the Dead, nationwide. This holiday (Nov 1) actually lasts for 2 days: All Saints' Day, honoring saints and deceased children, and All Souls' Day, honoring deceased adults. Relatives gather at cemeteries countrywide, carrying candles and food, and often spend the night beside graves of loved ones. Weeks before, bakers begin producing bread in the shape of mummies or round loaves decorated with bread "bones." Sugar skulls emblazoned with glittery names are sold everywhere. Many days ahead, homes and churches erect altars laden with bread, fruit, flowers, candles, favorite foods, and photographs of saints and of the deceased. On both nights, costumed children walk through the streets, often carrying mock coffins and pumpkin lanterns, into which they expect money to be dropped.

The most famous celebration -- which has become almost too well known -- is on Janitzio, an island on Lake Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, west of Mexico City. Mixquic, a mountain village south of Mexico City, hosts an elaborate street fair. At around 11pm on both nights, solemn processions lead to the cemetery in the center of town. Cemeteries around Oaxaca are well known for their solemn vigils, and some for their Carnaval-like atmosphere. November 1 and 2.

Fiestas de Noviembre (November Festivals), Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca. The month's events include the annual Pipeline of Mexico, Zicatela Beach's International Surfing Tournament, the International Sailfish Tournament, and the Coastal Dance Festival. Check local calendars or www.visitmexico.com for details. All month.

Gourmet Festival, Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco. In this culinary capital of Mexico, chefs from around the world join with local restaurateurs to create special menus and host wine and tequila tastings, cooking classes, a gourmet food expo, and other special events. For detailed information, see www.festivalgourmet.com. Dates vary, but the festival generally runs November 12 to 22.

Revolution Day, nationwide. This holiday commemorates the start of the Mexican Revolution in 1910 with parades, speeches, rodeos, and patriotic events. November 20.

Annual Yucatán Bird Festival, Mérida, Yucatán. Bird-watching sessions, workshops, and exhibits are the highlights of this festival designed to illustrate the special role birds play in our environment and in the Yucatán. Visit www.yucatanbirds.org.mx for details. Late November to early December.

National Silver Fair, Taxco. This competition pits Mexico's best silversmiths against some of the world's finest artisans. There are exhibits, concerts, dances, and fireworks. Check local calendars or www.visitmexico.com for details. Late November to early December.

Annual Hot Air Balloon Festival, León, Guanajuato. This is the largest festival in Latin America, with more than 60 balloons and pilots from all over the globe participating. Visit www.festivaldelglobo.com.mx for details. Late November.

December

Feast of the Virgin of Guadalupe, nationwide. Religious processions, street fairs, dancing, fireworks, and Masses honor the patroness of Mexico. It is one of the country's most moving and beautiful displays of traditional culture. The Virgin of Guadalupe appeared to a young man, Juan Diego Cuauhtlatoatzin, in December 1531 on a hill near Mexico City. It's customary for children to dress up as Juan Diego, wearing mustaches and red bandannas. One of the most famous and elaborate celebrations takes place at the Basílica of Guadalupe, north of Mexico City, where the Virgin appeared. But every village celebrates this day, often with processions of children carrying banners, and with charreadas (rodeos), bicycle races, dancing, and fireworks. In Puerto Vallarta, the celebration begins on December 1 and extends through December 12, with traditional processions to the church for a brief Mass and blessing. In the final days, the processions and festivities take place around the clock. There's a major fireworks exhibition on the feast day at 11pm. December 12.

Festival of San Cristóbal de las Casas, San Cristóbal de las Casas, Chiapas. This 10-day festival in Chiapas includes a procession by the Tzotzil and Tzetzal Indians, marimba music, and a parade of horses. December 12 to 21.

Christmas Posadas, nationwide. On each of the 9 nights before Christmas, it's customary to reenact the Holy Family's search for an inn. Door-to-door candlelit processions pass through cities and villages nationwide, especially Querétaro and Taxco. Hosted by churches, businesses, and community organizations, these take the place of the northern tradition of a Christmas party. December 15 to 24.

Fiesta de los Rábanos (Festival of the Radishes), Oaxaca. Local artisans and sculptors set up stalls around the main square to display their elaborate pieces of art -- made entirely from radishes! The local crop is used for creating nativity scenes and famous Mexican figures. Balloons and birds crafted from local flowers add even more color. December 23.

Christmas, nationwide. Mexicans often extend this holiday and take vacations for up to 2 weeks before Christmas, returning after New Year's. Many businesses close, and resorts and hotels fill. Significant celebrations take place on December 23 . Querétaro has a huge parade. On the evening of December 24 in Oaxaca, processions culminate on the central plaza. On the same night, Santiago Tuxtla in Veracruz celebrates by dancing the huapango and with jarocho bands in the beautiful town square. December 24 and 25.

New Year's Eve, nationwide. Like the rest of the world, Mexico celebrates New Year's Eve with parties, fireworks, and plenty of noise. New Year's Eve in Mexico is typically spent with family. Special festivities take place at Santa Clara del Cobre, near Pátzcuaro, with a candlelit procession of Christ; and at Tlacolula, near Oaxaca, with commemorative mock battles. December 31.

Special-Interest Vacations

Academic Trips & Language Classes

For Spanish-language instruction, IMAC (tel. 866/306-5040; www.spanish-school.com.mx) offers programs in Guadalajara, Puerto Vallarta, and Playa del Carmen. The Spanish Institute is affiliated with intensive Spanish-language schools in Puebla (tel. 800/554-2951; www.sipuebla.com) and Mérida (tel. 800/539-9710; www.simerida.com).

To explore your inner Frida or Diego while in Mexico, look into Mexico Art Tours, 9323 E. Lupine Ave., Scottsdale, AZ 85260 (tel. 888/783-1331 or 480/730-1764; www.mexicanarttours.com). Typically led by Jean Grimm, a specialist in the arts and cultures of Mexico, these unique tours feature compelling speakers who are themselves respected scholars and artists. Itineraries include visits to Chiapas, Guadalajara, Guanajuato, Mexico City, Oaxaca, Puebla, San Miguel de Allende, Veracruz, and the Yucatán -- and other destinations. Special tours involve archaeology, architecture, interior design, and culture -- such as a Day of the Dead tour.

The Archaeological Conservancy, 5301 Central Ave. NE, Ste. 402, Albuquerque, NM 87108 (tel. 505/266-1540; www.americanarchaeology.com), presents various trips each year, led by an expert, usually an archaeologist. The trips change from year to year and space is limited; make reservations early.

ATC Tours and Travel, Av. 16 de Septiembre 16, 29200 San Cristóbal de las Casas, Chis. (tel. 967/678-2550, -2557; fax 967/678-3145; www.atctours.com), a Mexico-based tour operator with an excellent reputation, offers specialist-led trips, primarily in southern Mexico. In addition to trips to the ruins of Palenque and Yaxchilán (extending into Belize and Guatemala by river, plane, and bus, if desired), ATC runs horseback tours to Chamula or Zinacantán, and day trips to the ruins of Toniná around San Cristóbal de las Casas; birding in the rainforests of Chiapas and Guatemala (including in the El Triunfo Reserve of Chiapas); hikes to the shops and homes of textile artists of the Chiapas highlands; and walks from the Lagos de Montebello in the Montes Azules Biosphere Reserve, with camping and canoeing. The company can also prepare custom itineraries.

Adventure & Wellness Trips

Mexico Sagaz (Asociación Mexicana de Turismo de Aventura y Ecoturismo) is an active association of ecotourism and adventure tour operators. It publishes an annual catalog of participating firms and their offerings, all of which must meet certain criteria for security, quality, and training of the guides, as well as for sustainability of natural and cultural environments. For more information, contact tel. 01-800/654-4452 toll-free in Mexico, or 55/5544-7567; www.amtave.org.

Baja Expeditions, 2625 Garnet Ave., San Diego, CA 92109 (tel. 800/843-6967 or 858/581-3311; www.bajaex.com), offers natural-history cruises, whale-watching, sea kayaking, camping, scuba diving, and resort and day trips from La Paz and Loreto, with the kayak trips from Loreto. Small groups and special itineraries are Baja Expeditions' specialty, including an exotic 7-day yoga/massage/kayak expedition to a secluded private island in the bay.

The California Native, 6701 W. 87th Place, Los Angeles, CA 90045 (tel. 800/926-1140 or 310/642-1140; www.calnative.com), offers small-group deluxe 7-, 8-, 11-, and 14-day escorted tours through the Copper Canyon. Many trips visit the towns of Batopilas, Urique, and Tejeban, as well as the customary destinations of Creel, El Fuerte, Divisadero, Chihuahua, and Cerocahui. The guides are known throughout the area for their work with the Tarahumara Indians. They also cover Baja and the Yucatán.

Canyon Travel, 900 Rich Creek Lane, Bulverde, TX 78163-2872 (tel. 800/843-1060 in the U.S. and Canada, or 830/885-2000; www.canyontravel.com), specializes in the Copper Canyon and has a variety of adventures, from easy to challenging. It designs trips for special-interest groups of agriculturists, geologists, rockhounds, and birders. The owner works with the Tarahumara Indians.

Two private companies that run ecotours throughout Chiapas are Ecochiapas (Primero de Marzo 30, San Cristóbal de las Casas; tel. 967/631-7498; www.ecochiapas.com) and Latitud 16 (Calle Real de Guadalupe 23, San Cristóbal de las Casas; tel. 967/678-3909; www.latitud16.com).

The Mesoamerican Ecotourism Alliance (tel. 800/682-0584 in the U.S.; www.travelwithmea.org) offers award-winning ecotours recognized by National Geographic to the Yucatán and Chiapas.

Mountain Travel Sobek, 6420 Fairmount Ave., El Cerrito, CA 94530 (tel. 888/831-7526 or 510/594-6000; www.mtsobek.com), takes groups kayaking in the Sea of Cortez and hiking in Copper Canyon and Oaxaca. Sobek is one of the world's leading ecotour outfitters.

Natural Habitat Adventures, 2945 Center Green Court, Ste. H, Boulder, CO 80301 (tel. 800/543-8917 or 303/449-3711; www.nathab.com), offers naturalist-led natural history and adventure tours. Expeditions focus on monarch butterfly-watching in Michoacán, sea turtle- and gray whale-watching in Baja, and hiking through Copper Canyon.

NatureQuest, P.O. Box 22000, Telluride, CO 81435 (tel. 800/369-3033 or 970/728-6743; www.naturequesttours.com), specializes in the natural history, culture, and wildlife of the Copper Canyon and the remote lagoons and waterways off Baja California. A 10-day hiking trip ventures into rugged areas of the canyon; a less strenuous trip goes to Creel and Batopilas, in the same area. Baja trips get close to nature, with special permits for venturing via two-person kayak into sanctuaries for whales and birds. Special horse-packing adventures are available as well.

Sea Kayak Adventures, P.O. Box 3862, Coeur d'Alene, ID 83816 (tel. 800/616-1943 or 208/765-3116; www.seakayakadventures.com), features kayak trips in both the Sea of Cortez Loreto Bay National Marine Park and Magdalena Bay, with a focus on whale-watching. This company has the exclusive permit to paddle Magdalena Bay's remote northern waters, and they guarantee gray whale sightings. Trips combine paddling of 4 to 5 hours per day, with hiking across dunes and beaches, while nights are spent camping (as well as staying in a hotel in Loreto). They have added a suite of yoga and spiritual retreats that combine extensive outdoor activity with twice-daily yoga sessions.

Sea Trek Ocean Kayaking Center, P.O. Box 1987, Sausalito, CA 94966 (tel. 415/332-8494; www.seatrek.com), has been alternating sea-kayaking trips between Alaska and Baja for 20 years, which has provided them an intimate knowledge of the peninsula's coastline. Eight-day trips depart from and return to Loreto. An optional day excursion to Bahía Magdalena for gray whale-watching is available. Full boat support is provided, and no previous paddling experience is necessary.

Paddling South, P.O. Box 827, Calistoga, CA 94515 (tel. 800/398-6200 or 707/942-4550; www.tourbaja.com), offers sea-kayaking, mountain bike, and mule-pack tours in the Loreto area. Owner Trudi Angell has guided these trips for more than 20 years. She and her guides offer firsthand knowledge of the area. Kayaking, mountain biking, pack trips, and sailing charters combine these elements with outdoor adventures.

Trek America, 16/17 Grange Mills Weir Road, London, SW12 ONE, UK (tel. 800/873-5872 in the U.S., or 0844/576-1400 in the U.K.; www.trekamerica.com), organizes lengthy, active trips that combine trekking, hiking, van transportation, and camping in the Yucatán.

Veraventuras, Santos Degollado 81-8, 91000 Xalapa, Ver. (tel. 01-800/712-6572 toll-free in Mexico, or 228/818-9579; www.veraventuras.xalapa.net), offers specially trained guides on well-organized adventures into the state of Veracruz, including rafting through the rapids of the Antigua and Actopan rivers.

The Sports Scene in Mexico

Mexico has more than 120 golf courses, concentrated in the resort areas, with excellent options in Mexico City and Guadalajara. Los Cabos, in Baja Sur, has become the country's preeminent golf destination; the Puerto Vallarta area enjoys a growing reputation. Visitors to Mexico can also enjoy tennis, racquetball, squash, water-skiing, surfing, bicycling, and horseback riding. Scuba diving is excellent, not only off the Yucatán's Caribbean coast (especially Cozumel), but also on the Pacific coast at Puerto Vallarta and Manzanillo, and off Baja in the Sea of Cortez. Mountain and volcano climbing is a rugged sport that allows you to meet like-minded adventurers from around the world. The top peaks are just 80km (50 miles) south of Mexico City -- the snowcapped volcanoes Ixtaccihuatl (5,255m/17,236 ft.) and Popocatépetl (5,420m/17,778 ft.). Popocatépetl is an active volcano and has been closed to climbers since a massive eruption in 1994. For information on visiting and climbing the volcanoes, contact Mountain Guides International at tel. 800/766-3396 (www.mountainguidesinternational.com).

Food & Wine Trips

If you're looking to eat your way through Mexico, sign up with Culinary Adventures, 6023 Reid Dr. NW, Gig Harbor, WA 98335 (tel. 253/851-7676; fax 253/851-9532; www.marilyntausend.com). It runs a short but select list of cooking tours in Mexico. Culinary Adventures features well-known cooks, with travel to regions known for excellent cuisine. Destinations vary each year. The owner, Marilyn Tausend, is the author of Cocinas de la Familia (Family Kitchens), Savoring Mexico, and Mexican, and coauthor of Mexico the Beautiful Cookbook.

Volunteer & Working Trips

For numerous links to volunteer and internship programs throughout Mexico involving teaching, caring for children, providing healthcare, feeding the homeless, and doing other community and public service, visit www.volunteerabroad.com.

If you're interested in teaching English to Mexican university students in the colonial town of Dolores Hidalgo or Queretaro, Global Volunteers, 375 E. Little Canada Rd., St. Paul, MN 55117 (tel. 800/487-1074; www.globalvolunteers.org), arranges 2-week programs for a fee.

ProWorld Service Corps, 600 California St., 10th Floor, San Francisco, CA 94108 (tel. 877/429-6753 or 415/434-5464; www.myproworld.org), organizes rural outreach internships in the areas of health, environment, and economic development, particularly to Oaxaca.

Getting There

By Plane

Mexico has dozens of international and domestic airports throughout the country. Among the major airports and their airport codes are Mexico City (MEX), Cancún (CUN), Acapulco (ACA), Guadalajara (GDL), Puerto Vallarta (PVR), Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo (ZIH), and Los Cabos (SJD). There is one major Mexican airline, Aeroméxico, and a handful of newer, low-cost carriers.

Arriving at the Airport -- Immigration and Customs clearance at Mexican airports is generally efficient. Expect longer lines during peak seasons, but you can usually clear immigration and customs within a half hour.

By Car

Driving is not the cheapest way to get to Mexico, but it is a convenient way to see the country. Even so, you may think twice about taking your own car south of the border once you've pondered the bureaucracy involved and the security situation across areas you're planning to travel. One option is to rent a car once you arrive and tour around a specific region. Rental cars in Mexico generally are clean and well maintained, although they are often smaller than rentals in the U.S., may have manual rather than automatic transmission, and are comparatively expensive due to pricey mandatory insurance. Discounts are often available for rentals of a week or longer, especially when you make arrangements in advance online or from the United States. Be careful about estimated online rates, which often fail to include the price of the mandatory insurance.

If you have additional questions or you want to confirm the current rules, call your nearest Mexican consulate or the Mexican Government Tourist Office. Although travel insurance companies generally are helpful, they may not have the most accurate information. To check on road conditions or to get help with any travel emergency while in Mexico, call tel. 55/5089-7500 in Mexico City, which is staffed by English-speaking operators.

In addition, check with the U.S. Department of State (www.state.gov) for warnings about dangerous driving areas.

Car Documents -- To drive your car into Mexico beyond 25km (16 miles), you'll need a temporary car-importation permit, which is granted after you provide a required list of documents . The permit can be obtained after you cross the border into Mexico through Banco del Ejército (Banjercito) officials with Mexican Customs (aduanas), or at Mexican consulates in Austin, San Francisco, Phoenix, Albuquerque, Chicago, Houston, Dallas, Los Angeles, Sacramento, and San Bernardino. For more information, call tel. 877/210-9469 in the U.S. or visit www.banjercito.com.mx.

The following requirements for border crossing were accurate at press time:

• Passport.
• A valid driver's license, issued outside of Mexico.
• Current, original car registration and a copy of the original car title: If the registration or title is in more than one name and not all the named people are traveling with you, a notarized letter from the absent person(s) authorizing use of the vehicle for the trip is required; have it ready. The registration and your credit card must be in the same name. If the car is leased or rented, be sure to have a copy of the contract.
• Original immigration documentation: Likely a tourist card.
• Processing fee and posting of a bond: You have three options for covering the car-importation fee: pay $29 at the border, pay $39 in advance at a Mexican consulate, or prepay $49 online at www.banjercito.com.mx. If you apply online, it takes about 2 weeks before you can go into the Banjercito office to get your permit. You will generally need a credit card to make this payment. Mexican law requires the posting of a bond at a Banjercito office to guarantee the export of the car from Mexico within a time period determined at the time of the application. For this purpose, American Express, Visa, or MasterCard credit card holders will be asked to provide credit card information; others make a cash deposit of $200 to $400, depending on the make/model/year of the vehicle. To recover this bond or avoid credit card charges, go to any Mexican Customs office immediately before leaving Mexico.

If you receive your documentation at the border, Mexican officials will make two copies of everything and charge you for the copies. For up-to-the-minute information, a great source is the Customs office in Nuevo Laredo, or Módulo de Importación Temporal de Automóviles, Aduana Nuevo Laredo (tel. 867/712-2071).

Important reminder: Someone else may drive, but the person (or relative of the person) whose name appears on the car-importation permit must always be in the car. (If stopped by police, a nonregistered family member driving without the registered driver must be prepared to prove familial relationship to the registered driver -- no joke.) Violation of this rule subjects the car to impoundment and the driver to imprisonment, a fine, or both. You can drive a car with foreign license plates only if you have a foreign (non-Mexican) driver's license.

You must carry in the car at all times your temporary car-importation permit, tourist permit, and, if you purchased it, your proof of Mexican car insurance. The temporary car-importation permit papers are valid for 6 months to a year, while the tourist permit is usually issued for 30 days. It's a good idea to overestimate the time you'll spend in Mexico so that if you have to (or want to) stay longer, you'll avoid the hassle of getting your papers extended. Whatever you do, don't overstay either permit. Doing so invites heavy fines, confiscation of your vehicle (which will not be returned), or both. Remember that 6 months does not necessarily equal 180 days -- be sure to return before the earlier expiration date.

Mexican Auto Insurance (Seguros de Auto) -- Liability auto insurance is legally required in Mexico. U.S. insurance is invalid; to be insured in Mexico, you must purchase Mexican insurance. Any party involved in an accident who has no insurance may be sent to jail and have his or her car impounded until all claims are settled. U.S. companies that broker Mexican insurance are commonly found at the border crossing, and several quote daily rates.

You can also buy car insurance through Sanborn's Mexico Insurance, P.O. Box 52840, 2009 S. 10th, McAllen, TX (tel. 800/222-0158; fax 800/222-0158 or 956/686-0732; www.sanbornsinsurance.com), in daily, monthly, or yearly time periods. The company has offices at all U.S. border crossings. Its policies cost the same as the competition's do, but you get legal coverage (attorney and bail bonds if needed), roadside assistance, and for a premium, vandalism protection. You also get a detailed guide for your proposed route. Most of the Sanborn's border offices are open Monday through Friday; a few are staffed on Saturday and Sunday. AAA auto club (www.aaa.com) also sells insurance.

Returning to the U.S. with Your Car -- You must return the car documents you obtained when you entered Mexico when you cross back with your car, or within 180 days of your return. (You can cross as many times as you wish within the 180 days.) If the documents aren't returned, serious fines are imposed (50 pesos for each day you're late), your car may be impounded and confiscated, or you may be jailed if you return to Mexico. You can only return the car documents to a Banjercito official on duty at the Mexican aduana building before you cross back into the United States. Some border cities have Banjercito officials on duty 24 hours a day, but others do not; some do not have Sunday hours. See www.mexbound.com/mexican-vehicle-permits.php for a listing of office hours.

By Ship

Numerous cruise lines serve Mexico. Some (such as Carnival and Royal Caribbean) cruise from California to the Baja Peninsula and ports of call on the Pacific coast, or from Houston or Miami to the Caribbean (which often includes stops in Cancún, Playa del Carmen, and Cozumel). Several cruise-tour specialists sometimes offer last-minute discounts on unsold cabins. One such company is CruisesOnly (tel. 800/278-4737; www.cruisesonly.com).

By Bus

Greyhound (tel. 800/231-2222; www.greyhound.com), or its affiliates, offers service from around the United States to the Mexican border, where passengers disembark, cross the border, and buy a ticket for travel into Mexico. Many border crossings have scheduled buses from the U.S. bus station to the Mexican bus station.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Mexico is a popular country for retirees. For decades, North Americans have been living indefinitely in Mexico by returning to the border and recrossing with a new tourist permit every 6 months. Mexican immigration officials have caught on, and now limit the maximum time in the country to 6 months within any year. This is to encourage even partial residents to acquire proper documentation.

AIM-Adventures in Mexico, Apartado Postal 31-70, 45050 Guadalajara, Jalisco, is a well-written, informative newsletter for prospective retirees. Subscriptions are $29 to the United States.

Sanborn Tours, 2015 S. 10th St., P.O. Box 936, McAllen, TX 78505-0519 (tel. 800/395-8482; www.sanborns.com), offers a "Retire in Mexico" orientation tour.

Tips for Student Travelers

Because Mexicans consider higher education a luxury rather than a birthright, there is no formal network of student discounts and programs. Most Mexican students travel with their families rather than with other students, so student discount cards are not commonly recognized.

The U.S. Department of State offers information designated specifically for students traveling abroad: www.studentsabroad.state.gov.

The website www.hostels.com/mexico offers a list of hostels in Acapulco, Cancún, Guadalajara, Guanajuato, Mérida, Mexico City, Oaxaca, Playa del Carmen, Puerto Escondido, Puebla, San Cristobal las Casas, San Miguel de Allende, and Zacatecas, among other locations.

Getting Around

By Plane

Until recently, Mexico had two large private national carriers, but Mexicana closed operations and filed for bankruptcy in 2010. Now, only Aeroméxico remains (tel. 800/237-6399 in the U.S., or 01-800/021-4000 in Mexico; www.aeromexico.com), in addition to several low-cost carriers. Aeroméxico offer extensive connections to the United States as well as within Mexico.

Low-cost carriers include Interjet (tel. 866/285-9525 in the U.S., or 01-800/011-2345 in Mexico; www.interjet.com.mx) and Volaris (tel. 866/988-3527 in the U.S., or 01-800/122-8000 in Mexico; www.volaris.com.mx).

Because major airlines may book some regional carriers, check your ticket to see if your connecting flight is on a smaller carrier that may use a different airport or counter.

Mexico charges an airport tax on all departures. Passengers leaving the country on international flights pay about $24 or the peso equivalent. It has become a common practice to include this departure tax in your ticket price. Taxes on each domestic departure within Mexico are around $17, unless you're on a connecting flight and have already paid at the start of the flight.

By Car

Many Mexican roads are not up to North American and European standards of smoothness, hardness, width of curve, grade of hill, or safety markings. Driving at night is dangerous: The roads are rarely lit; trucks, carts, pedestrians, and bicycles usually have no lights; and you can hit potholes, animals, rocks, dead ends, or uncrossable bridges without warning. The spirited style of Mexican driving sometimes requires keen vision and reflexes. Be prepared for new customs, as when a truck driver flips on his left turn signal when there's not a crossroad for many kilometers. He's probably telling you the road's clear ahead for you to pass.

Point-to-Point Driving Directions Online -- You can get point-to-point driving directions in English for anywhere in Mexico from the website of the Secretary of Communication and Transport. The site will also calculate tolls, distance, and travel time. Go to http://aplicaciones4.sct.gob.mx/sibuac_internet and click on "Rutas punto a punto" in the left-hand column. Then select the English version.

Gasoline -- There's one government-owned brand of gas and one gasoline station name throughout the country -- Pemex (Petroleras Mexicanas). There are two types of gas in Mexico: magna 87-octane unleaded and premio 93 octane. In Mexico, fuel and oil are sold by the liter, which is slightly more than a quart (1 gal. equals about 3.8L). Many franchise Pemex stations have bathroom facilities and convenience stores -- a great improvement over the old ones. Gas stations accept credit and debit cards for gas purchases, and a small tip -- 5 to 10 pesos -- is expected for full-service.

Toll Roads -- Mexico charges relatively high tolls for its network of new toll roads, so they are less used. Generally, though, using toll roads cuts travel time. Older toll-free roads are generally in good condition, but travel times tend to be longer as these roads pass directly through small towns and villages.

Breakdowns -- If your car breaks down on the road, help might already be on the way. Radio-equipped green repair trucks, run by uniformed English-speaking officers, patrol major highways during daylight hours (usually 8am-6pm). These Angeles Verdes/Green Angels perform minor repairs and adjustments for free, but you pay for parts and materials. To contact them in Mexico, dial tel. 078. For more information, see www.sectur.gob.mx.

Your best guide to repair shops is the Yellow Pages. For repairs, look under Automóviles y Camiones: Talleres de Reparación y Servicio; auto-parts stores are under Refacciones y Accesorios para Automóviles. To find a mechanic on the road, look for the sign TALLER MECÁNICO. Places called vulcanizadora or llantera repair flat tires, and many are open 24 hours a day on the most traveled highways.

Minor Accidents -- When possible, many Mexicans drive away from minor accidents, or try to make an immediate settlement, to avoid involving the police. If the police arrive while the involved persons are still at the scene, the cars will probably be confiscated and both parties will likely have to appear in court. Both parties may also be taken into custody until liability is determined. Foreigners who don't speak fluent Spanish are at a distinct disadvantage when trying to explain their version of the event. Three steps may help the foreigner who doesn't wish to do as the Mexicans do: If you were in your car, notify your Mexican insurance company, whose job it is to intervene on your behalf. If you were in a rental car, notify the rental company immediately and ask how to contact the nearest adjuster. If all else fails, ask to contact the nearest Green Angel, who may be able to explain to officials that you are covered by insurance.

Car Rentals -- You'll get the best price if you reserve a car on the Internet. Cars are easy to rent if you are 25 or older and have a major credit card, valid driver's license, and passport with you. Without a credit card, you must leave a cash deposit, usually a big one. One-way rentals are usually simple to arrange but more costly.

Car rental costs are high in Mexico because cars are more expensive. The condition of rental cars has improved greatly over the years, and newer cars are increasingly common. You pay the least for a manual car without air-conditioning. Prices may be considerably higher if you rent around a major holiday. Also double-check charges for insurance -- some companies will increase the insurance rate after several days. Always ask for detailed information about all charges you will be responsible for. Also make sure the vehicle is in good shape and has been properly serviced before driving away.

Car-rental companies often charge on a credit card in U.S. dollars.

Deductibles -- Be careful -- these vary greatly; some are as high as $2,500, which comes out of your pocket immediately in case of damage.

Insurance -- Insurance comes in two parts: Collision and damage insurance covers your car and others if the accident is your fault, and personal accident insurance covers you and anyone in your car. Note that insurance may be invalid if you have an accident while driving on an unpaved road. Although some international credit cards include as a benefit collision and damage coverage, they almost never include liability.

Damage -- Inspect your car carefully and note every damaged or missing item, no matter how minute, on your rental agreement, or you may be charged.

By Taxi

Taxis are the preferred way to get around almost all of Mexico's resort areas. Fares for short trips within towns are generally preset by zone, and are quite reasonable compared with U.S. and European rates. For longer trips or excursions to nearby cities, taxis can generally be hired for around $15 to $20 per hour, or for a negotiated daily rate. A negotiated one-way price is usually much less than the cost of a rental car for a day, and a taxi travels much faster than a bus. For anyone who is uncomfortable driving in Mexico, this is a convenient, comfortable alternative. A bonus is that you have a Spanish-speaking person with you in case you run into trouble. Many taxi drivers speak at least some English. For safety reasons, sitio (radio) taxis should be used rather than libre taxis off the street. Your hotel can assist with the arrangements.

By Bus

Mexican buses run frequently, are readily accessible, and can transport you almost anywhere you want to go. Taking the bus is common in Mexico, and the executive and first-class coaches can be as comfortable as business class on an airplane. Buses are often the only way to get from large cities to other nearby cities and small villages. Don't hesitate to ask questions if you're confused about anything, but note that little English is spoken in bus stations.

Dozens of Mexican companies operate large, air-conditioned, Greyhound-type (or better) buses between most cities. Classes are segunda (second), primera (first), and ejecutiva (deluxe), which goes by a variety of names. Deluxe buses often have fewer seats than regular buses, show movies, are air-conditioned, and make few stops. Many run express from point to point. They are well worth the few dollars more. In rural areas, buses are often of the school-bus variety, with lots of local color.

Whenever possible, buy your reserved-seat ticket, often using a computerized system, a day in advance on long-distance routes and especially before holidays.

For each relevant destination, we list bus arrival and contact information. The following website provides reservations and bookings for numerous providers throughout Mexico: www.ticketbus.com.mx/wtbkd/autobus.jsp.

Tips for Women Travelers

Women do not frequently travel alone in Mexico, including driving alone on the highways. Walking on the street could net you a catcall, and walking alone at night is not advisable except in well-protected tourist areas. I've known people who have had uncomfortable experiences in crowded places such as subways. In general, though, Mexicans are extremely gracious, and will help a woman carry heavy items, open doors, and provide information, among other courtesies.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Entering Mexico During the Covid-19 Pandemic

Health and safety regulations are not mandated on a federal level in Mexico and therefore vary by state. None are requiring negative Covid-19 tests for entry, but most are mandating that restaurants and other public facilities to reduce capacity by either 40 or 50 percent. Mexico also has no quarantine requirements, but it does ask incoming visitors to fill out a health declaration form and provide contact info. Many airports are also checking the temperatures of arriving travelers.

Important: if you are returning to the United States, you must get tested (NAAT or antigen) no more than 3 days before your flights to the U.S. or present documentation of having recovered from Covid-19 within the last three months.

Onsite testing is now available at many resorts; when planning your trip, check ahead with your hotel, or the destination's tourism website, for information about the area's testing options.

Passports

Citizens from all countries are required to present a valid passport for entry to Mexico. That includes all U.S. citizens, including children. They are required to present a valid passport or passport card for travel beyond the "border zone" into Mexico, with the "border zone" defined as an area within 20 to 30km (12-19 miles) of the United States. The passport should be valid for, at minimum, 6 months from your time of arrival in country.

All U.S. and Canadian citizens traveling by air or sea to Mexico are required to present a valid passport or other valid travel document to enter or reenter the United States except if returning from a closed-loop cruise. In addition, all travelers, including U.S. and Canadian citizens, attempting to enter the United States by land or sea must have a valid passport or other WHTI compliant document.

Other valid travel documents include the Passport Card and the U.S. Coast Guard Mariner Document. Members of the U.S. Armed Forces on active duty are eligible for fee-free passports. U.S. citizens may apply for the limited-use, wallet-size Passport Card, but we think applying for a regular passport makes more sense, as the passport card is valid only for land and sea travel between the U.S. and Canada, Mexico, the Caribbean region, and Bermuda, whereas a regular passport will work around the world.

Safeguard your passport in an inconspicuous, inaccessible place, and photograph the critical pages (those with your passport number and photo) so you have a digital record of it. If you lose your passport, visit the nearest consulate of your native country as soon as possible for a replacement.

Passport Offices

• Australia -- Australian Passport Information Service (tel. 131-232; www.passports.gov.au).
• Canada -- Passport Office (www.canada.ca, click on "Travel and Tourism").
• Ireland -- Passport Office (www.dfa.ie, click on "Passport Services").
• New Zealand -- Passports Office (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).
• United Kingdom -- HM Passport Office (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.gov.uk, click on "HM Passport Office").
• United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. Department of State website (travel.state.gov/passport).

Visas

No visa is required for visitors to Mexico from Australia, Canada, New Zealand, the U.K., and the U.S., among other countries (see www.inm.gob.mx/gobmx/word/index.php/paises-no-requieren-visa-para-mexico for the full list). Visitors can stay legally for up to 180 days. At the entry point, you'll be given a Mexico Visitor's Permit (FMM) to fill out. Try not to lose it, as you'll need to show it when leaving the country, to prove you are within the 180 day limit. If you do lose it, you'll need to apply for a replacement at a local immigration office (available in every city and many towns) or at the airport. Taking a photo of the document is a good idea. The fee to replace the FMM is about $30 USD.

Your FMM is stamped on arrival. If traveling by bus or car, ensure that you obtain such a card at the immigration module located at the border and have it stamped by immigration authorities at the border. If you do not receive a stamped tourist card at the border, ensure that, when you arrive at your destination within Mexico, you immediately go to the closest National Institute of Immigration office, present your bus ticket, and request a tourist card. Travelers who fail to have their tourist card stamped may be fined, detained, or expelled from the country.

If you plan to enter Mexico by car, please read the vehicle's importation requirements.

Note on travel of minors: Mexican law requires that any non-Mexican citizen under the age of 18 departing Mexico without both parents must carry notarized written permission from the parent or guardian who is not traveling with the child to or from Mexico. This permission must include the name of the parent, the name of the child, the name of anyone traveling with the child, and the notarized signature(s) of the absent parent(s). The U.S. Department of State recommends that permission include travel dates, destinations, airlines, and a summary of the circumstances surrounding the travel. The child must be carrying the original letter (not a facsimile or scanned copy), and proof of the parent/child relationship (usually a birth certificate or court document) and an original custody decree, if applicable. Travelers can also contact the Mexican Embassy or closest Mexican Consulate for more current information.

Customs

If you have an unusual amount of luggage or an oversized piece, you may be subject to inspection. Passengers that arrive by air will be required to put their bags through an X-ray machine, and then move to the kiosk and push a button to determine whether their luggage will be selected for any further inspection.

What You Can Bring into Mexico: When you enter Mexico, Customs officials will be tolerant if you are not carrying illegal drugs or firearms. Tourists are allowed to bring in their personal effects duty-free. The underlying guideline is: Don't bring anything that looks as if it's meant to be resold in Mexico. The website of the U.S. Embassy has guidance on what can be brought into the country.

For information on what non-Mexican visitors can be bring home from Mexico, be sure to check with your home country (use the link above for U.S. regulations):

Australian Citizens: The Australian government provides a detailed list of what can and cannot be brought home from abroad (www.abf.gov.au; click on "Entering and Leaving Australia").

Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, go to the Canada Border Services Agency (www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca, click on "Customs Tarriff").

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered by the New Zealand Customs Service (www.customs.govt.nz, click on "Personal" to see the rules for individuals bringing goods back into the country).

U.K. Citizens: Full information can be found on the website of the HM Revenue & Customs at tel. 0845/010-9000 (www.gov.uk).

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever, see top of page for Covid-19 information), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into Puerto Rico.

If you have a medical condition that requires syringe-administered medications, carry a valid signed prescription from your physician; syringes in carry-on baggage will be inspected. Insulin in any form should have the proper pharmaceutical documentation. If you have a disease that requires treatment with narcotics, you should also carry documented proof with you -- smuggling narcotics aboard a plane carries severe penalties in Mexico.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency (unless rates are given in U.S. dollars).  However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

Traditionally, prices in the southern region of Mexico are cheaper than in other parts of the country, although prices vary depending on the specific location. The most expensive destinations are those with the largest number of foreign visitors, such as Cancún and Los Cabos. The least expensive are those off the beaten path and in small rural villages, particularly in the poorer states. In the major cities, prices vary greatly depending on the neighborhood. As you might imagine, tourist zones tend to be more expensive.

The currency in Mexico is the peso.

Many establishments that deal with tourists, especially in coastal resort areas, quote prices in U.S. dollars. To avoid confusion, they use the abbreviations DLLS. for dollars and M.N. (moneda nacional, or national currency) or M.X.P. for Mexican Pesos. Note: Establishments that quote their prices primarily in U.S. dollars are listed in this guide with U.S. dollars.

Getting change is a problem. Small-denomination bills and coins are hard to come by, so start collecting them early in your trip. Shopkeepers and taxi drivers everywhere always seem to be out of change and small bills; that's doubly true in markets. There seems to be an expectation that the customer should provide appropriate change, rather than the other way around.

Large airports have currency-exchange counters that often stay open whenever flights are operating. Though convenient, they generally do not offer the most favorable rates. The bottom line on exchanging money: Ask first, and shop around. Banks generally pay the top rates.

Travelers to Mexico can easily withdraw money from ATMs, called cajeras, in most major cities and resort areas. Use the same precautions you would at any ATM. Most machines offer Spanish/English menus and dispense pesos, but some offer the option of withdrawing dollars.

In Mexico, Visa, MasterCard, and American Express are the most accepted cards. You'll be able to charge most hotel, restaurant, and store purchases, as well as almost all airline tickets, on your credit card. Most Pemex gas stations now accept credit card purchases for gasoline, though this option may not be available everywhere and often not at night -- check before you pump. Generally you receive the favorable bank rate when paying by credit card. However, be aware that some establishments in Mexico add a 5% to 7% surcharge when you pay with a credit card. This is especially true when using American Express. Many times, advertised discounts will not apply if you pay with a credit card.

Beware of hidden credit-card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

A Few Words About Prices -- Many hotels in Mexico -- except places that receive little foreign tourism -- quote prices in U.S. dollars or in both dollars and pesos. Thus, currency fluctuations are unlikely to affect the prices most hotels charge.

Tips on Dining

Markets & Restaurants

Exploring the culinary delights of a tianguis, or traditional market, is one of my favorite pastimes. The people-watching is top-notch, and the food stalls harbor creative surprises ranging from strawberry shortcakes covered in fresh cream to juicy cheeseburgers and onion rings. To ensure your chances of getting the healthiest food possible, visit stands that seem to be popular among the locals. Word spreads fast in Mexico, so it doesn't take long for customers to root out the stalls with less than stellar hygiene practices. On the other side of the spectrum, avoid eating at those inviting sidewalk restaurants that you see beneath the stone archways that border the main plazas. These places usually cater to tourists and don't need to count on any return business. But they are great for getting a coffee or beer and watching the world turn.

In most nonresort towns, there are always one or two restaurants (sometimes it's a coffee shop) that are social centers for a large group of established patrons. Over time, they become virtual institutions, and change comes very slowly. The food is usually good standard fare, cooked as it was 20 years ago, and the decor is simple. The patrons have known each other and the staff for years, and the charla (banter), gestures, and greetings are friendly, open, and unaffected. If you're curious about Mexican culture, these are fun places to eat in and observe the goings-on.

You'll see multitudes of taquerías (taco joints) everywhere in Mexico. These are generally small places with a counter or a few tables set around the cooking area; you see exactly how they make their tacos before deciding whether to order. Most tacos come with a little chopped onion and cilantro, but not with tomato and lettuce. Find one that seems popular with the locals and where the cook performs with brio (a good sign of pride in the product). Sometimes a woman will be making the tortillas (or working the masa into gorditas or sopes, if these are also served) right there. You will never see men doing this -- this is perhaps the strictest gender division in Mexican society. Men do all other cooking and kitchen tasks, and work with already-made tortillas, but will never be found working masa.

Dining Tips

• Nearly all restaurants and bars that serve middle-class Mexicans use filtered water, disinfect their vegetables, and buy ice made from purified water. If in doubt, look for ice with a rough cylindrical shape and a hollow center, produced by the same kind of machinery across the country. Street vendors and market stalls are less consistent. I've never gotten sick on any of my travels to Mexico, but people who live there say a good way of keeping your stomach happy is by drinking one of the tiny Yakult yogurt drinks found in the dairy section of just about every grocery store or corner market.

• For the afternoon meal, the main meal of the day, many restaurants offer a multicourse daily special called comida corrida or menú del día. This is the most inexpensive way to get a full dinner.

• In Mexico, you need to ask for your check; it is considered rude to present a check to someone who hasn't requested it. If you're in a hurry, ask for the check when your food arrives.

• Tips are about the same as in the U.S. You'll sometimes find a 15% value-added tax on restaurant meals, which shows up on the bill as IVA. This is effectively the tip, which you may augment if you like. Just make sure you're not tipping twice.

• To summon the waiter, wave or raise your hand, but don't motion with your index finger, which is a demeaning gesture that may cause the waiter to ignore you. Or if it's the check you want, you can motion to the waiter from across the room using the universal scribbling motion against the palm of your hand.

Meals

desayuno -- Breakfast.

comida -- Main meal of the day, taken in the afternoon.

cena -- Supper.

Courses

botana -- A small serving of food that accompanies a beer or drink, usually served free of charge.

entrada -- Appetizer.

sopa -- Soup course. (Not necessarily a soup -- it can be a dish of rice or noodles, called sopa seca [dry soup].)

ensalada -- Salad.

plato fuerte -- Main course.

postre -- Dessert.

comida corrida -- Inexpensive daily special usually consisting of three courses.

menú del día -- Same as comida corrida.

Degree of Doneness

término un cuarto -- Rare, literally means one-fourth.

término medio -- Medium rare, one-half.

término tres cuartos -- Medium, three-fourths.

bien cocido -- Well done.

Note: Keep in mind, when ordering a steak, that medio does not mean "medium."

Miscellaneous Restaurant Terminology

cucharra -- Spoon.

cuchillo -- Knife.

la cuenta -- The bill.

plato -- Plate.

plato hondo -- Bowl.

propina -- Tip.

servilleta -- Napkin.

tenedor -- Fork.

vaso -- Glass.

IVA -- Value-added tax.

fonda -- Strictly speaking, a food stall in the market or street, but now used in a loose or nostalgic sense to designate an informal restaurant.

Popular Mexican Dishes

a la tampiqueña -- (Usually bistec a la t. or arrachera a la t.) A steak served with several sides, including but not limited to an enchilada, guacamole, rice, and beans.

adobo -- Marinade made with chiles and tomatoes, often seen in adjectival form adobado/adobada.

albóndigas -- Meatballs, usually cooked in a chile chipotle sauce.

antojito -- Literally means "small temptation." It's a general term for tacos, tostadas, quesadillas, and the like, which are usually eaten for supper or as a snack.

arrachera -- Skirt steak, fajitas.

arroz -- Rice.

bistec -- Steak.

bolillo -- Small bread with a crust much like a baguette.

buñuelos -- Fried pastry dusted with sugar. Can also mean a large, thin, crisp pancake that is dipped in boiling cane syrup.

cajeta -- Thick caramel sauce made from goat's milk.

calabaza -- Zucchini squash.

caldo tlalpeño -- Chicken and vegetable soup, with rice, chile chipotle, avocado, and garbanzos. Its name comes from a suburban community of Mexico City, Tlalpan.

caldo xochitl -- Mild chicken and rice soup served with a small plate of chopped onion, chile serrano, avocado, and limes, to be added according to individual taste.

camarones -- Shrimp. For common cooking methods, see pescado.

carne -- Meat.

carnitas -- Slow-cooked pork dish from Michoacán and parts of central Mexico, served with tortillas, guacamole, and salsa or pickled jalapeños.

cebolla -- Onion.

cecina -- Thinly sliced pork or beef, dried or marinated, depending on the region.

ceviche -- Fresh raw seafood marinated in fresh lime juice and garnished with chopped tomatoes, onions, chiles, and sometimes cilantro.

chalupas poblanas -- Simple dish from Puebla consisting of handmade tortillas lightly fried but left soft, and topped with different chile sauces.

chayote -- Spiny squash boiled and served as an accompaniment to meat dishes.

chilaquiles -- Fried tortilla quarters softened in either a red or a green sauce and served with Mexican sour cream, onion, and sometimes chicken (con pollo).

chile -- Any of the many hot peppers used in Mexican cooking, in fresh, dried, or smoked forms.

chile ancho -- A dried chile poblano, which serves as the base for many varieties of sauces and moles.

chile chilpotle (or chipotle) -- A smoked jalapeño dried or in an adobo sauce.

chile en nogada -- Chile poblano stuffed with a complex filling of shredded meat, nuts, and dried, candied, and fresh fruit, topped with walnut cream sauce and a sprinkling of pomegranate seeds.

chile poblano -- Fresh pepper that is usually dark green in color, large, and not usually spicy. Often stuffed with a variety of fillings (chile relleno).

chile relleno -- Stuffed pepper.

chivo -- Kid or goat.

cochinita pibil -- Yucatecan dish of pork, pit-baked in a pibil sauce of achiote, sour orange, and spices.

col -- Cabbage. Also called repollo.

consomé -- Clear broth, usually with rice.

cortes -- Steak; in full, it is cortes finas de carne (fine cuts of meat).

cuitlacoche -- Variant of huitlacoche.

elote -- Fresh corn.

empanada -- For most of Mexico, a turnover with a savory or sweet filling. In Oaxaca and southern Mexico, it is corn masa or a tortilla folded around a savory filling and roasted or fried.

empanizado -- Breaded.

enchilada -- A lightly fried tortilla, dipped in sauce and folded or rolled around a filling. It has many variations, such as enchiladas suizas (made with a cream sauce), enchiladas del portal or enchiladas placeras (made with a predominantly chile ancho sauce), and enchiladas verdes (in a green sauce of tomatillos, cilantro, and chiles).

enfrijoladas -- Like an enchilada, but made with a bean sauce.

enmoladas -- Enchiladas made with a mole sauce.

entomatadas -- Enchiladas made with a tomato sauce.

escabeche -- Vegetables pickled in a vinegary liquid.

flan -- Custard.

flautas -- Tortillas that are rolled up around a filling (usually chicken or shredded beef) and deep-fried; often listed on a menu as taquitos or tacos fritos.

gorditas -- Thick, fried corn tortillas, slit open and stuffed with meat or cheese.

horchata -- Drink made of ground rice, melon seeds, ground almonds, or coconut and cinnamon.

huazontle -- A vegetable vaguely comparable to broccoli, but milder in taste.

huitlacoche -- Salty and mild-tasting corn fungus that is considered a delicacy.

jitomate -- Tomato.

lechuga -- Lettuce.

limón -- A small lime. Mexicans squeeze them on everything from soups to tacos.

lomo adobado -- Pork loin cooked in an adobo.

masa -- Soft dough made of corn that is the basis for making tortillas and tamales.

menudo -- Soup made with beef tripe and hominy.

milanesa -- Beef cutlet breaded and fried.

mole -- Any variety of thick sauce made with dried chiles, nuts, fruit or vegetables, and spices. Variations include m. poblano (Puebla style, with chocolate and sesame), m. negro (black mole from Oaxaca, also with chocolate), and m. verde (made with herbs and/or pumpkinseeds, depending on the region).

pan -- Bread. A few of the varieties include p. dulce (general term for a variety of sweet breads), p. de muerto (bread made for the Day of the Dead holidays), and p. Bimbo (packaged sliced white bread).

panuchos -- A Yucatecan dish of masa cakes stuffed with refried black beans and topped with shredded turkey or chicken, lettuce, and onion.

papas -- Potatoes.

papadzules -- A Yucatecan dish of tortillas stuffed with hard-boiled eggs and topped with a sauce made of pumpkinseeds.

parrillada -- A sampler platter of grilled meats or seafood.

pescado -- Fish. Common ways of cooking fish include al mojo de ajo (pan seared with oil and garlic), a la veracruzana (with tomatoes, olives, and capers), and al ajillo (seared with garlic and fine strips or rings of chile guajillo).

pibil -- See cochinita pibil. When made with chicken, it is called pollo pibil.

picadillo -- Any of several recipes using shredded beef, pork, or chicken and onions, chiles, and spices. Can also contain fruit and nuts.

pipián -- A thick sauce made with ground pumpkinseeds, nuts, herbs, and chiles. Can be red or green.

poc chuc -- A Yucatecan dish of grilled pork with onion marinated in sour orange.

pollo -- Chicken.

pozole -- Soup with chicken or pork, hominy, lettuce, and radishes, served with a small plate of other ingredients to be added according to taste (onion, pepper, lime juice, oregano). In Jalisco it's red (p. rojo), in Michoacán it's clear (p. blanco), and in Guerrero it's green (p. verde). In the rest of Mexico, it can be any one of these.

puerco -- Pork.

quesadilla -- Corn or flour tortillas stuffed with white cheese and cooked on a hot griddle. In Mexico City, it is made with raw masa folded around any of a variety of fillings (often containing no cheese) and deep-fried.

queso -- Cheese.

res -- Beef.

rompope -- Mexican liqueur, made with eggs, vanilla, sugar, and alcohol.

salbute -- A Yucatecan dish like a panucho, but without bean paste in the middle.

sopa azteca -- Tortilla soup.

sopa tarasca -- A blended soup from Michoacán made with beans and tomatoes.

sope -- Small fried masa cake topped with savory meats and greens.

tacos al pastor -- Small tacos made with thinly sliced pork marinated in an adobo and served with pineapple, onion, and cilantro.

tamal -- (Not "tamale.") Masa mixed with lard and beaten until light and folded around a savory or sweet filling, and encased in a cornhusk or a plant leaf (usually corn or banana) and then steamed. Tamales is the plural form.

taquitos -- See flautas.

tinga -- Shredded meat stewed in a chile chipotle sauce.

torta -- A sandwich made with a bolillo.

When to Go

Mexico has two principal travel seasons. High season begins around December 20, peaks over New Year's, and continues through Easter week (Semana Santa); in some places, it begins as early as mid-November. Low season is from the day after Easter to mid-December, when prices may drop 20% to 50%. In beach destinations popular with Mexican travelers, such as Veracruz and Acapulco, prices will revert to high season during July and August, the traditional national summer vacation period. Prices in inland cities seldom fluctuate from high to low season, but may rise dramatically during the weeks of Easter and Christmas. Taxco and Pátzcuaro raise prices during their popular Easter-week celebrations. Along the Caribbean coast, many hotels divide the year into five or six rate periods; high season starts earlier than in the rest of the country and includes the month of August, when many European visitors and Mexican families arrive.

Mexico has two main climate seasons: rainy (May to mid-Oct) and dry (mid-Oct to Apr). The rainy season can be of little consequence in the dry, northern regions of the country. Southern regions typically receive tropical showers, which begin around 4 or 5pm and last a few hours. Though these rains can come on suddenly and be quite strong, they usually end just as quickly and cool off the air for the evening. Hurricane season particularly affects the Yucatán Peninsula and the southern Pacific coast, especially from June through October. If no hurricanes strike, however, the light, cooling winds, especially from September through November, can make it a perfect time to tackle the pre-Hispanic ruins that dot the interior of the peninsula.

Norte (northern) season runs from late November to mid-January, when the jet stream dips far south and creates northerly winds and showers in many resort areas. These showers usually last only for a couple of days.

June, July, and August are unrelentingly hot on the Yucatán Peninsula and in most coastal areas, though temperatures rise only into the mid-20s to 32°C (mid-80s to 90°F). Most of coastal Mexico experiences temperatures in the 20s°C (80s°F) in the hottest months. The northern states that border the U.S. endure very high summer temperatures.

Elevation is another important factor. High-elevation cities, such as Mexico City and San Cristóbal de las Casas, can get quite cool. Temperatures can drop near freezing at night in winter, even in San Miguel de Allende and Guanajuato, which are at lower elevations.

Mexican beaches reach uncomfortably hot temperatures, often with high humidity, in summer, and most foreign visitors prefer the Caribbean and Pacific Coasts after the hurricane and rainy seasons end in October. Although the weather may be ideal then, the craziest time to visit Cancún and the Riviera Maya is during the American spring-break period from mid-February into March and April, so avoid this time if you're looking for rest and relaxation. The north of Mexico is unspeakably hot in summer, so it's probably best to avoid extensive travel there at that time. Mexico City is temperate year-round, and the only important difference is whether it's the rainy season or not.

Staying Safe

Mexico is one of the world's great travel destinations and millions of visitors travel safely here each year. Yet drug-related violence and widespread media coverage of Mexico's insecurity have severely impacted its tourism industry. Mexican drug-trafficking organizations have been engaged in brutal fights against each other for control of trafficking routes, and the Mexican government has deployed military troops and federal police across the country. Much of the worst drug-related violence has occurred in the border region. In a late 2010 travel warning, the U.S. Department of State urged U.S. citizens to defer unnecessary travel to Michoacán and Tamaulipas, and to parts of Chihuahua (particularly Ciudad Juarez), Sinaloa, Durango, and Coahuila. The state of Guerrero, including Acapulco, has been affected by drug-related violence. The level of violence in Monterrey has also increased, and there have been numerous incidents of violence in the city of Cuernavaca, near Mexico City. The Mexican government is working hard to protect visitors to major tourist destinations, which do not experience anything like the levels of violence and crime reported in the border region and along major drug-trafficking routes, mainly in the north.

In most places, it's uncommon for foreign visitors to face anything worse than petty crime. The risk of pickpockets and petty theft rises considerably during the winter high tourist season. Always use common sense and exercise caution when in unfamiliar areas. Leave valuables and irreplaceable items in a safe place, or don't bring them at all. Use hotel safes when available. Avoid driving alone, especially at night. You can generally trust a person you approach for help or directions, but be wary if someone approaches you offering the same. The more insistent a person is, the more cautious you should be. Stay away from areas where drug dealing and prostitution occur.

The U.S. and Mexico share a border more than 3,000km (nearly 2,000 miles) long and Americans comprise the vast majority of tourists to Mexico. Due to this close and historically intertwined relationship, we recommend that all travelers read the U.S. Department of State travel advisories/warnings for Mexico (www.travel.state.gov). The U.S. Department of State encourages its citizens to use main roads during daylight hours, stay in well-known tourist destinations and tourist areas with better security, cooperate fully with Mexican military and other law enforcement checkpoints, and provide an itinerary to a friend or family member not traveling with them.

Stories of murder and mayhem are making all the headlines about Mexico these days. Stories of assassinations, kidnappings, and shootouts sell newspapers but are of no help evaluating the risk in traveling through the country. They are newsworthy in that they document the gravity of the problem Mexico faces in gaining control of its borders and ensuring public safety. But the best way to understand the risk of traveling in Mexico is to read the U.S. Department of State travel warnings (www.travel.state.gov).

The current situation has changed the way I travel in two ways beyond the usual precautions -- such as not flashing a lot of money, not wearing an expensive watch, keeping aware of my surroundings, and not driving on the highway at night. These changes boil down to two objectives: Avoid being in the wrong place at the wrong time, and avoid the possibility of mistaken identity. The first is largely met by not lingering in Mexico's northern border states (including Durango and the interior of Sinaloa), where most violence occurs. The second minimizes any risk of being held up or nabbed by kidnappers, and it is achieved by looking as much like a tourist as possible. Kidnappers in Mexico don't target tourists. They have targeted resident foreigners with family in Mexico or businesspeople who have associates because they need someone to demand a ransom from. The risk here is from small-time gangs who act opportunistically. (Serious kidnappers aren't a threat because they won't do anything without planning and surveillance.) In the last few years, small-time gangs have increased. The best way I know of to avoid this risk is not to carry a briefcase or satchel. What's more, by hauling around a backpack, you will automatically escape scrutiny because businesspersons in Mexico never use them. The backpack (mochila) in Mexico is a strong cultural identifier. It's associated with students and counterculture types, so much so that the word mochilero has come to describe hippies.

Crime in Mexico City

Violent crime is also serious in the capital. Do not wear fine jewelry or expensive watches, or display any other obvious signs of wealth. If you do not have local friends who can help guide you around the city, ask your hotel staff to help point you in the right direction. Muggings are common by day and by night. Theft is even common at the Benito Juárez International Airport, where items such as briefcases, cameras, or laptops are common targets. To avoid theft upon arrival, incoming passengers in need of pesos should use the exchange counters or ATMs in the arrival/departure gate area, where access is restricted, rather than changing money after passing through Customs. Metro (subway) robberies are frequent in Mexico City.

Avoid the use of the green Volkswagen Beetle and libre taxis, many of which have been involved in "pirate" robberies, muggings, and kidnappings. These taxis are also common in incidents where passengers are "hijacked" and released only after they are forced to withdraw the limit on their ATM bank cards. Always use official airport or radio taxis (called sitios) instead. Tourists and residents alike should avoid driving alone at night anywhere in the city.

Crime in Resort Towns

A significant number of rapes have been reported in Cancún and other resort areas, usually at night or in the early morning. Women should not walk alone late at night. Drug-related violence has increased in Acapulco and Mazatlán. Although this violence is not targeted at foreign residents or tourists, visitors in these areas should be vigilant in their personal safety. Armed street crime is a serious problem in all the major cities. Some bars and nightclubs, especially in resort cities such as Cancún, Cabo San Lucas, Mazatlán, Acapulco, and Tijuana, can be havens for drug dealers and petty criminals.

The U.S. Department of State offers specific safety and security information for travelers on spring break in Mexico: www.travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/spring_break_mexico/spring_break_mexico_5014.html. It is also advised that you should not hike alone in backcountry areas nor walk alone on less-frequented beaches, ruins, or trails.

Kidnapping

Kidnapping, including the kidnapping of non-Mexicans, continues to occur at alarming rates. Although visitors are less likely to be targeted, those who believe they are being targeted for kidnapping or other crimes should notify Mexican law enforcement and their respective embassy or consulate, and should consider returning to their home country immediately. The U.S. Department of State states the following: "So-called express kidnappings, that is, attempts to get quick cash in exchange for the release of an individual, have occurred in almost all of Mexico's large cities and appear to target not only the wealthy but also the middle class. Kidnapping in Mexico has become a lucrative business, whether the kidnappings are actual or "virtual." A common scam throughout Mexico is "virtual" kidnapping by telephone, in which the callers typically speak in a distraught voice in a ploy to elicit information about a potential victim and then use this knowledge to demand ransom for the release of the supposed victim. In the event of such a call, it is important to stay calm, as the vast majority of the calls are hoaxes. Do not reveal any personal information; try to speak with the victim to corroborate his/her identity; and contact the local police as well as the Embassy or nearest consulate." Also avoid hailing taxis on the street and use sitio (radio) taxis instead. It can be useful to travel with a working cellphone, as well. This is good advice for all travelers to Mexico.

Highway Safety

Travelers should exercise caution while traveling Mexican highways, avoiding travel at night and using toll (cuota) roads rather than the less secure free (libre) roads whenever possible. Fully cooperate with all official checkpoints, the number of which has increased, when traveling on Mexican highways.

Bus travel should take place during daylight hours on first-class conveyances. Although bus hijackings and robberies have occurred on toll roads, buses on toll roads have a markedly lower rate of incidents than second-class and third-class buses that travel the less secure "free" highways.

Bribes & Scams

As is the case around the world, there are the occasional bribes and scams in Mexico, targeted at people believed to be naive, such as telltale tourists. For years, Mexico was known as a place where bribes -- called mordidas (bites) -- were expected; however, the country is rapidly changing. Frequently, offering a bribe today, especially to a police officer, is considered an insult, and it can land you in deeper trouble.

Many tourists have the impression that everything works better in Mexico if you "tip"; however, in reality, this only perpetuates the mordida tradition. If you are pleased with a service, feel free to tip. But you shouldn't tip simply to attempt to get away with something illegal or inappropriate -- whether it is evading a ticket that's deserved or a car inspection as you're crossing the border.

Whatever you do, avoid impoliteness; you won't do yourself any favors if you insult a Mexican official. Extreme politeness, even in the face of adversity, rules Mexico. In Mexico, gringos have a reputation for being loud and demanding. By adopting the local custom of excessive courtesy, you'll have greater success in negotiations of any kind. Stand your ground, but do it politely.

As you travel in Mexico, you may encounter several types of scams, which are typical throughout the world. One involves some kind of a distraction or feigned commotion. While your attention is diverted, for example, a pickpocket makes a grab for your wallet. In another common scam, an unaccompanied child pretends to be lost and frightened and takes your hand for safety. Meanwhile the child or an accomplice plunders your pockets. A third involves confusing currency. A shoeshine boy, street musician, guide, or other individual might offer you a service for a price that seems reasonable -- in pesos. When it comes time to pay, he or she tells you the price is in dollars, not pesos. Be very clear on the price and currency when services are involved. An ATM scam involves ATMs in questionable locations where card numbers are "skimmed" and information is copied, money stolen, or cards fraudulently charged.

Fast Facts

Business Hours -- Most businesses in larger cities are open between 9am and 7pm; in smaller towns they may close between 2 and 4pm. Many close on Sunday. In resort areas, stores commonly open in the mornings on Sunday, and shops stay open late, until 8 or even 10pm. Bank hours are Monday through Friday from 9 or 9:30am to anywhere between 3 and 7pm. Banks open on Saturday for at least a half-day.

Doctors -- Any embassy or consulate staff in Mexico from an English-speaking country can provide a list of area doctors who speak English. If you get sick in Mexico, consider asking your hotel concierge to recommend a local doctor -- even his or her own. Some hotels even have in-house medical personnel. You can also try the emergency room at a local hospital or urgent care facility. Mexican doctors may not always have access to the latest technologies, and the quality of medical facilities varies, but they usually spend considerable time with patients and charge much less than their North American counterparts. Before choosing a doctor, you can ask for his or her qualifications and where he or she was trained.

Drinking Laws -- The legal drinking age in Mexico is 18; however, asking for ID or denying purchase is extremely rare. Grocery stores sell everything from beer and wine to national and imported liquors. You can buy liquor 24 hours a day, but during major elections, dry laws often are enacted by as much as 72 hours in advance of the election -- and they apply to tourists as well as local residents. Mexico does not have laws that apply to transporting liquor in cars, but authorities are beginning to target drunk drivers more aggressively. It's a good idea to drive defensively.

It's illegal to drink in the street; but many tourists do. If you are getting drunk, you shouldn't drink in the street, because you are more likely to get stopped by the police.

Electricity -- The electrical system in Mexico is 110 volts AC (60 cycles), as in the United States and Canada. In reality, however, it may cycle more slowly and overheat your appliances. To compensate, select a medium or low speed on hair dryers. Many older hotels still have electrical outlets for flat two-prong plugs; you'll need an adapter for any plug with an enlarged end on one prong or with three prongs. Adapters are available in most Mexican electronics stores. Many better hotels have three-hole outlets (trifásicos in Spanish). Those that don't may loan adapters, but to be sure, it's always better to carry your own.

Embassies & Consulates -- Citizen services provided by country missions include passports, notaries, lists of doctors and lawyers, regulations concerning marriages in Mexico, emergency preparedness information, and other valuable assistance. Contrary to popular belief, your embassy cannot get you out of jail, provide postal or banking services, or fly you home if you run out of money. Consular officers provide advice on most matters and problems, however. Most countries have an embassy in Mexico City, and many have consular offices or representatives in the provinces.

It is a good idea to register with your embassy or consulate when visiting Mexico. The Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP) is a free service provided by the U.S. government to U.S. citizens who are traveling to, or living in, a foreign country. STEP allows them to enter information about their upcoming trip abroad so that the Department of State can better assist them in an emergency, and also allows Americans residing abroad to obtain routine information from the nearest U.S. embassy or consulate. Visit https://travelregistration.state.gov.

The Embassy of Australia in Mexico City is at Rubén Darío 55, Col. Polanco (tel. 55/1101-2200; www.mexico.embassy.gov.au). It's open Monday through Thursday from 9:30am to noon.

The Embassy of Canada in Mexico City is at Schiller 529, in Polanco (tel. 55/5724-7900, or for emergencies 01-800/706-2900; http://mexico.gc.ca); it's open Monday through Friday from 9am to 1pm and 2 to 5pm. The website above also lists consulates and consular agencies in Mexico.

The Embassy of Ireland in Mexico City is at Cda. Bl. Manuel Avila Camacho 76, 3rd floor, Col. Lomas de Chapultepec (tel. 55/5520-5803; www.irishembassy.com.mx). It's open Monday through Thursday from 8:30am to 5pm, and Friday from 8:30am to 1:30pm.

The Embassy of New Zealand in Mexico City is at Jaime Balmes 8, 4th Floor, Col. Los Morales, Polanco (tel. 55/5283-9460; www.nzembassy.com/mexico). It's open Monday through Thursday from 8:30am to 2pm and 3 to 5:30pm, and Friday from 8:30am to 2pm.

The Embassy of the United Kingdom in Mexico City is at Río Lerma 71, Col. Cuauhtémoc (tel. 55/1670-3200; http://ukinmexico.fco.gov.uk/en). It's open Monday through Thursday from 8am to 4pm and Friday from 8am to 1:30pm.

The Embassy of the United States in Mexico City is at Paseo de la Reforma 305, next to the Hotel María Isabel Sheraton at the corner of Río Danubio (tel. 55/5080-2000); hours are Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 5:30pm. Visit http://mexico.usembassy.gov for information related to U.S. Embassy services. A U.S. consulate is at Calle 60 No. 338 K x 29 y 31, Col. Acala Martin, Mérida (tel. 999/942-5700). In addition, there are consular agencies in Cancún (tel. 998/883-0272) and Cozumel (tel. 987/872-4574).

Emergencies -- In case of emergency, dial tel. 066 from any phone within Mexico. Dial tel. 065 for the Red Cross. The 24-hour Tourist Help Line in Mexico City is tel. 01-800/987-8224 in Mexico, or 55/5089-7500, or simply dial tel. 078. The operators don't always speak English, but they are always willing to help.

Hospitals -- Many hospitals have walk-in clinics for emergency cases that are not life-threatening; you may not get immediate attention, but you won't pay emergency room prices. The quality varies, but is often quite high, especially in resort towns.

Insurance -- For travel to Mexico, you may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later. Before leaving home, find out what medical services your health insurance covers. To protect yourself, consider buying medical travel insurance.

For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com/tips.

Language -- Spanish is the official language in Mexico. English is spoken and understood to some degree in most tourist areas. Mexicans are very accommodating with foreigners who try to speak Spanish, even in broken sentences.

Legal Aid -- Embassies and consulates can often provide a list of respected lawyers in the area who speak English.

Mail -- Postage for a postcard or letter varies by destination; it may take from a few weeks to over a month to arrive. The price for registered letters and packages depends on the weight. The recommended way to send a package or important mail is through FedEx, DHL, UPS, or another reputable international mail service.

Newspapers & Magazines -- The Miami Herald is published in conjunction with El Universal. You can find it at most newsstands. The News is a new English-language daily with Mexico-specific news, published in Mexico City. Newspaper kiosks in larger cities also carry a selection of English-language magazines.

Packing -- In general, Mexico is an easy destination to pack for, as weather is consistent and predictable, and the style is casual and accepting. Check forecasts before you go and bring something for cool nights. For more helpful information on packing for your trip, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Police -- Several cities, including Cancún, have a special corps of English-speaking Tourist Police to assist with directions, guidance, and more. In case of emergency, dial tel. 060 or 066 from any phone within Mexico.

Smoking -- In early 2008, the Mexican president signed into law a nationwide smoking ban in workplaces and public buildings, and on public transportation. Under this ground-breaking law, private businesses are permitted to allow public smoking only in enclosed ventilated areas. Hotels may maintain up to 25% of guest rooms for smokers. Violators face stiff fines, and smokers refusing to comply could receive up to 36-hour jail sentences. The law places Mexico -- where a significant percentage of the population smokes -- at the forefront of efforts to curb smoking and improve public health in Latin America. So before you light up, be sure to ask about the application of local laws in Mexican public places and businesses you visit.

Taxes -- Mexico has a value-added tax of 16% (Impuesto de Valor Agregado, or IVA; pronounced Ee-bah) on most everything, including restaurant meals, bus tickets, and souvenirs. (Exceptions are in Cancún, Cozumel, and Los Cabos, where the IVA is 11%; as ports of entry, they receive a break on taxes.) Hotels charge the usual 16% IVA, plus a locally administered bed tax of 3% (in most areas), for a total of 19%. In Cancún, Cozumel, and Los Cabos, hotels charge the 11% IVA plus 3% room tax, for a total of 14%. The prices quoted by hotels and restaurants do not necessarily include IVA. You may find that upper-end properties (three or more stars) often quote prices without IVA included, while lower-priced hotels include IVA. Ask to see a printed price sheet and ask if the tax is included.

Time -- Central Time prevails throughout most of Mexico, including the Yucatán, Tabasco, and Chiapas. The states of Baja California Sur, Chihuahua, Nayarit, Sinaloa, and Sonora fall in the Mountain Time Zone, while Baja California uses Pacific Time. All of Mexico observes daylight saving time.

Tipping -- Most service employees in Mexico count on tips for the majority of their income, and this is especially true for bellboys and waiters. Bellboys should receive the equivalent of 5 to 15 pesos per bag; waiters generally receive 10% to 15%, depending on the level of service. It is not customary to tip taxi drivers, unless they are hired by the hour or provide touring or other special services.

Toilets -- Public toilets are not common in Mexico, but an increasing number are available, especially at fast-food restaurants and Pemex gas stations. These facilities and restaurant and club restrooms commonly have attendants, who expect a small tip (about 5 pesos).

Water -- Tap water in Mexico is generally not potable and it is safest to drink purified bottled water. Some hotels and restaurants purify water, but you should ask rather than assume this is the case. Use ice with caution as it may also come from tap water.

Tips on Accommodations

Mexico's Hotel Rating System

The hotel rating system in Mexico is called "Stars and Diamonds." Hotels may qualify to earn one to five stars or diamonds. Many hotels that have excellent standards are not certified, but all rated hotels adhere to strict standards. The guidelines relate to service, facilities, and hygiene more than to prices.

Five-diamond hotels meet the highest requirements for rating: The beds are comfortable, bathrooms are in excellent working order, all facilities are renovated regularly, infrastructure is top-tier, and services and hygiene meet the highest international standards.

Five-star hotels usually offer similar quality, but with lower levels of service and detail in the rooms. For example, a five-star hotel may have less luxurious linens or, perhaps, room service during limited hours rather than 24 hours.

Four-star hotels are less expensive and more basic, but they guarantee cleanliness and basic services such as hot water and purified drinking water. Three-, two-, and one-star hotels are at least working to adhere to certain standards: Bathrooms are cleaned and linens are washed daily, and you can expect a minimum standard of service. Two- and one-star hotels generally provide bottled water rather than purified water.

Hotel Chains

In addition to the major international chains, you'll run across a number of less-familiar brands as you plan your trip to Mexico. They include the following:

• Brisas Hotels & Resorts (www.brisashotelonline.com): These were the hotels that originally attracted jet-set travelers to Mexico. Spectacular in a retro way, these properties offer the laid-back luxury that makes a Mexican vacation so unique.

• Fiesta Americana and Fiesta Inn (www.posadas.com): Part of the Mexican-owned Grupo Posadas company, these hotels set the country's midrange standard for facilities and services. They generally offer comfortable, spacious rooms and traditional Mexican hospitality. Fiesta Americana hotels offer excellent beach-resort packages. Fiesta Inn hotels are usually more business-oriented. Grupo Posadas also owns the more luxurious Caesar Park hotels and the eco-oriented Explorean hotels.

• Hoteles Camino Real (www.caminoreal.com): Hoteles Camino Real remains Mexico's premier hotel chain with beach resorts, city hotels, and colonial inns scattered throughout the country. Its beach hotels are traditionally located on the best beaches in the area. This chain also focuses on the business market. The hotels are famous for their vivid and contrasting colors.

• Quinta Real Grand Class Hotels and Resorts (www.quintareal.com): These hotels are noted for architectural and cultural details that reflect their individual regions. At these luxury properties, attention to detail and excellent service are the rule. Quinta Real is the top-line Mexican hotel brand.

House Rentals & Swaps

House and villa rentals and swaps are becoming more common in Mexico, but no single recognized agency or business provides this service exclusively for Mexico.

You'll find the most extensive inventory of homes at Vacation Rentals by Owner (VRBO; www.vrbo.com). They have thousands of homes and condominiums worldwide, including a large selection in Mexico. Another good option is VacationSpot (tel. 888/903-7768; www.vacationspot.com). It has fewer choices, but the company's criteria for adding inventory is much more selective and often includes on-site inspections. They also offer toll-free phone support.

Boutique Lodgings

Mexico lends itself beautifully to the concept of small, private hotels in idyllic settings. They vary in style from grandiose estate to palm-thatched bungalow. Mexico Boutique Hotels (tel. 877/278-8018; www.mexicoboutiquehotels.com) specializes in smaller places to stay with a high level of personal attention and service. Most options have less than 50 rooms, and the accommodations consist of entire villas, casitas, bungalows, or a combination.