The Milford Road

The road to Milford Sound is world-famous. Although it can be completed in two hours, allow at least three so you can stop to look at the many natural attractions along the way. SH94 from Te Anau leads north along the lake, with islands and wooded distant shores on your left. Since many visitors plan their visit to coincide with boat cruise departure times, the major scenic stops can get congested at specific times. The majority of tour buses (including those coming from Queenstown) depart from Te Anau between 9am and 10am and arrive at Mirror Lakes (a fantastic photo stop) around 10:30am, Knobs Flat (the last flush toilets before you reach Milford) at 11am, The Chasm (a beautiful rocky valley) at 12:30pm, and Milford Sound at 1pm. Long story short? It pays to leave an hour earlier, even if it means you’ll be waiting around for your cruise to start once you arrive in Milford.

The drive is often a slow one, especially in wet conditions, as you make your way through steep gorges and between walls of solid rock and moss-covered inclines. I would discourage anyone from taking a motor home on this road as it is narrow, steep, and winding with a lot of bus traffic—and if that doesn’t put you off, the dark, narrow tunnel will. The road is usually very busy in summer and there can be delays, especially at Homer Tunnel. Remember: There is nowhere to fuel up in Milford or after leaving Te Anau, so make sure your tank is full. This is not a road you want to be “marooned” on—in any season.  During the winter months, all drivers on Milford Road are required to carry chains for their vehicles. Road conditions can be checked with the NZTA.

If you’re not keen to self-drive after reading that preface, but also don’t want to be a sardine packed on a big tour bus, local operator Trips & Tramps  (tel. 03/249-7081) organizes small group day trips to Milford Sound, which includes the classic boat cruise, stops as all the best photo points along the way, and guided hikes on trails along the Milford Road. NZ$184 adults and NZ$90 children.

Homer Tunnel, about 100km (65 miles) into the journey, is a major engineering marvel: a 1.2km (3/4-mile) passageway first proposed in 1889, begun in 1935, and finally opened in 1940. It wasn’t until 1954 before a connecting road was completed and the first private automobile drove through. There’s no lighting in the tunnel and it’s very narrow. Drive with extreme care! Also keep an eye out for kea, who like to frequent this area (and pick at the rubber on cars).
About 6km (3[bf]3/4 miles) past the tunnel, stop and walk to the Chasm. The pleasant 15-minute round-trip goes through mossy undergrowth and beech forest to see a rather wonderful feat of natural erosion on the Cleddau River.