"Minnesota Nice" is on full display at this combination restaurant/cafe/bar created from an 1881 timber mill. Hosts greet guests like long-lost cousins and the servers are solicitous, ready to engage in long discussions of the menu, so that everyone gets what they really want. But where the real coddling comes in is in the food. A Nordic take on locavore fare, it is comfort food in the best sense of that term and just innovative enough to surprise. That might mean a salad of spiky greens with the creamiest of smoked foie gras, studded with pickled peppers and cranberries—the melange of different textures and flavors in each bite is a revelation. The pork meatballs here have achieved local fame, and rightly so. They're not the dry, dusty balls you get at so many Scandinavian joints. Instead, they're loosely packed and juicy, sided with little squares of lightly cured vegetables in a sauce with just the right hint of horseradish. And the appetizer toast boards (meant to be shared) are just plain fun: triangles of toast with a cornucopia of different spreads, charcuterie, pickles and more. During the day, the cafe serves expertly prepared coffees, breakfast and lunch fare. Late into the night, the mixologists at the downstairs bar keep the party going. I should note that long-time chef Paul Berglund (winner of the James Beard award in 2016 for Best Midwestern chef) left the restaurant in the summer of 2017. But the kitchen does not seem to have stumbled in his absence.