A Day Trip to Dunk Island -- If you're a beachcomber at heart, Dunk will fulfill your dreams. Just 5km (3 miles) offshore from Mission Beach, Dunk was the inspiration for writer E. J. Banfield's book Confessions of a Beachcomber. The nervous Banfield moved to Dunk at the turn of the 20th century to live out what he thought would be a short life. He lived another 23 years, which must say something about the restorative powers of a piece of paradise. Ed and Bertha Banfield's graves are alongside the track to Mount Kootaloo.

Thick bushland and rainforest cover much of the island's 12 sq. km (4 3/4 sq. miles), most of which is a national park. The island is renowned for its myriad birds and electric-blue Ulysses butterflies.

Day trips to Dunk Island may have resumed operations by the time you read this. At press time, these trips were not operating, awaiting the re-opening of Dunk Island resort. Check with the Visitor Information Centre at Mission Beach, or the resort, for details.

Coral Sea Kayaking (tel. 07/4068 9154, or 0419/782 453 mobile; www.coralseakayaking.com) runs full-day guided paddles to Dunk Island. It takes about 90 minutes to reach the small islands near Dunk and you may see dolphins and turtles. There's a stop at a nearby island for a midmorning snack; and while on Dunk Island, you can walk in the rainforest and swim or snorkel in a secluded bay. The trip costs A$136 per person, including park fees, lunch, and snacks. You must be over 13.