Planning a Trip to Molokai
“Don’t try to change Molokai. Let Molokai change you.” That’s the mantra on this least developed of the major Hawaiian Islands. No luxury hotels, no stoplights, and “no rush” are points of pride for locals, nearly half of whom are of Native Hawaiian descent. The island welcomes adventure travelers, spiritual pilgrims, and all who appreciate its untrammeled beauty and unhurried ways.
Known as “the child of the moon” in Native Hawaiian lore, Molokai remains a place apart, luminous yet largely inaccessible to the casual visitor. Tourism, and modern conveniences in general, have only a small footprint here, and although the island is just 38 miles long by 10 miles wide, it takes time to see what it has to offer. As the sign at the airport reads: ALOHA, SLOW DOWN, THIS IS MOLOKAI.
Patience and planning reward travelers with a compass of superlatives. The world’s tallest sea cliffs stand on the North Shore; on the South Shore, historic fishponds line the state’s longest fringing reef. The island’s most ancient settlement sits within gorgeous Halawa Valley on the East End, while the West End offers one of the most impressive stretches of golden sand in Hawaii, the more than 2-mile-long (and often empty) Papohaku.
The percentage of people of Native Hawaiian descent is also higher on Molokai than on the other major islands. Many have maintained or revived Hawaiian traditions such as growing taro, managing fishponds, and staging games for Makahiki, the winter festival. “Sustainability” isn’t a buzzword here but a way of life, and one that eyes modern innovations with caution—many islanders are fiercely opposed to growth.
Residents and visitors alike take inspiration from the stories of Father Damien and others who cared for the suffering exiles of Kalaupapa. Once a natural prison for those diagnosed with leprosy, the remote North Shore peninsula is now a national historical park with very limited access but profound appeal—much like Molokai itself.
Arriving
By Plane: Unless you’re flying to the island as part of a Kalaupapa charter tour, you’ll arrive in Hoolehua (airport code: MKK), which many just call the Molokai Airport. It’s about 7 1/2 miles from the center of Kaunakakai town. Note: Make sure to book your flight for daylight hours and get a window seat. The views of Molokai from above are outstanding, no matter which way you approach the island.
Hawaiian Airlines (www.hawaiianairlines.com; 800/367-5320) services Molokai with its subsidiary, Ohana by Hawaiian. The twin-engine turboprops feature splashy designs by Sig Zane and carry 48 passengers. Multiple direct flights travel daily to Hoolehua from Honolulu, Oahu and Kahului, Maui. A single direct flight leaves each morning from Lanai.
The visuals are doubly impressive from the single-engine, nine-seat aircraft of Mokulele Airlines (www.mokuleleairlines.com; 866/260-7070 or 808/270-8767 outside the U.S.), which provides nonstop service from Honolulu, with most flights on Wednesday and Saturday. Mokulele also flies to Molokai nonstop from three airports on Maui (Kahului, Kapalua, and Hana) and two airports on Hawaii Island (Kona and Kamuela). Note: At check-in, you’ll be asked to stand on a scale with any carry-on luggage. Only the agent is able to see the results, but those who weigh more than 350 pounds are not allowed to fly. Keep your shoes on—there are no security screenings.
Makani Kai Air (www.makanikaiair.com; 808/834-1111) also flies nine-seaters to Molokai from Oahu and Maui for a flat fee of $50. In addition, the small airline offers tour packages to Kalaupapa National Historical Park from Honolulu and Kahului. Flights are met by Damien Tours—the only way visitors, who must be at least 16 years old, are allowed inside the national historical park. Don’t book Kalaupapa flights independently.
Note: Important to consider if you’re booking connecting flights: On Oahu, Makani Air departs from a private terminal on the perimeter of the Honolulu airport. Mokulele operates from the commuter terminal and Ohana by Hawaiian from the interisland terminal. On Maui and Hawaii Island, Makani Air and Mokulele both depart from small commuter terminals walking distance from the main airports. The Maui commuter terminal has its own convenient parking lot.
Getting Around
Getting around Molokai isn’t easy without a rental car, which you should reserve as early as possible. During special events and holiday weekends (see “When to Go” in chapter 3), rental agencies run out of vehicles. Stay alert to invasive axis deer darting onto the highway, especially at night.
By Car—The international chain Alamo Rent a Car (www.alamo.com; 888/826-6893) has both an office and cars at the airport in Hoolehua. The office of Molokai Car Rental (www.molokaicars.com; 808/336-0670) may be in Kaunakakai, where owner Amanda Schonely also sells her unique shell-decorated caps and island jewelry, but she’s happy to leave a serviceable car (or minivan) for you at the airport or ferry dock, with the keys inside. If you’re renting for a week or longer, consider reserving a lightly used but perfectly adequate car, van, or SUV from Mobettah Car Rentals (www.mobettahcarrentals.com; 808/308-9566). The company will drop vehicles at the airport, or you can pick up your rental at its office 2 miles west on the Maunaloa Highway.
By Taxi—Per state law, taxis charge $3 a mile plus a “drop charge” of $3.50, or about $32 from the airport to the Hotel Molokai in Kaunakakai and $42 to a West End condo. Try to arrange rides a day or two in advance with the friendly folks at Hele Mai Taxi (www.molokaitaxi.com; 808/336-0967).
By Bus—The nonprofit Maui Economic Opportunity, Inc. (www.meoinc.org; 808/877-7651) provides free daytime shuttle bus service between Kaunakakai and the East End, Hoolehua/Kualapuu, and Maunaloa/Kaluakoi, running six times daily Monday to Friday and once on Saturdays. It’s designed for rural residents but open to all; if you’re feeling adventurous, check out the online schedule (click “Programs & Services,” and then follow the drop-down links, starting with “Transportation”).
Visitor Information
Molokai Visitors Association (www.gohawaii.com/molokai; 800/800-6367 from the U.S. mainland and Canada, or 808/553-3876) offers a wealth of practical tips and cultural insights on its website, and encourages first-time visitors in particular to stop by its office in Kaunakakai for sightseeing advice tailored to current conditions as well as personal preferences. Open weekdays from 9am until noon, the bureau is in the Moore Center, 2 Kamoi St. (just off Hwy. 450), next to the office of the Molokai Dispatch (www.themolokaidispatch.com), the island’s weekly newspaper. Browse the paper online before you arrive to familiarize yourself with local issues and special events, and pick up a free copy, published Wednesdays, for the island’s current dining specials and entertainment. Some of the practical information on VisitMolokai.com (slogan: “EVERYTHING ABOUT MOLOKAI, BY FOLKS WHO LIVE ON MOLOKAI”) is outdated, but the website still has a useful events calendar, sightseeing tips, photos, and insights. These sources all maintain Facebook pages, too.
Fast Facts
Note: All addresses are in Kaunakakai unless otherwise noted.
ATMs/Banks—Both Bank of Hawaii, 20 Ala Malama Ave. (www.boh.com; 808/553-3273), and American Savings Bank, 40 Ala Malama Ave. (www.asbhawaii.com; 808/553-8391), have 24-hour ATMs.
Cellphones—Good luck getting service here. The island has a few cellphone towers, but the signal is weak island-wide.
Dentists/Doctors—The Molokai Community Health Center, 30 Oki Place (www.molokaichc.org; 808/553-5038), provides dental and medical services from 8am to 5pm weekdays.
Emergencies—Call 911 in life-threatening circumstances. Otherwise, contact the police at 808/553-5355 or the fire department at 808/553-5601.
Hospital—Molokai General Hospital, 280 Homeolu Place (www.molokaigeneralhospital.org; 808/553-5331), has 15 beds, a 24-hour emergency room open daily, and an outpatient clinic open 7am to 6pm weekdays.
Internet Access—Molokai Public Library, 15 Ala Malama Ave. (www.librarieshawaii.org; 808/553-1765) offers free Wi-Fi and computers by reservation. Hotel Molokai and several restaurants also offer free, semi-reliable Wi-Fi.
Pharmacy—The family-run Molokai Drugs, 28 Kamoi St. (www.molokaidrugs.com; 808/553-5790), carries everything from greeting cards to hospital-grade equipment and is open 8:45am to 5:45pm Monday to Friday, 8am to 2pm Saturday.
Post Office—The central office at 120 Ala Malama Ave. is open Monday to Friday 9am to 3:30pm and Saturday 9 to 11am. The Hoolehua branch, just off Farrington Avenue (Hwy. 480) at 69-2 Puupeelua Ave., offers the popular “Post-a-Nut” service; it’s open weekdays 8:30am to noon and 12:30 to 4pm.
Calendar of Events
Please note that as with any schedule of upcoming events, the following information is subject to change; always confirm the details before you plan your trip around an event.
For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.
January
Ka Molokai Makahiki, Kaunakakai Town Baseball Park, Mitchell Pauole Center, Kaunakakai, Molokai. Makahiki, a traditional time of peace in ancient Hawaii, is re-created with performances by Hawaiian music groups and hula halau (schools), ancient Hawaiian games, a sporting competition, and Hawaiian crafts and food. It's a wonderful chance to experience the Hawaii of yesteryear. Call tel. 800/800-6367 or 808/553-3876 or go to www.visitmolokai.com. Late January.
February
Molokai Hawaiian Paniolo Heritage Rodeo, Molokai Rodeo Arena, Maunaloa, Molokai. A celebration of Hawaii's paniolo (cowboy) heritage. Call tel. 877/88-TRAIL (888-7245).
March
Prince Kuhio Day Celebrations. Various festivals are held throughout Hawaii to celebrate the birth of Jonah Kuhio Kalanianaole, who was born on March 26, 1871, and elected to Congress in 1902. Molokai also hosts a 1-day celebration; call tel. 808/553-3876 or go to www.visitmolokai.com to learn more.
May
Outrigger Canoe Season, all islands. From May to September, canoe paddlers across the state participate in outrigger canoe races nearly every weekend. Call tel. 808/383-7798 or go to www.y2kanu.com for this year's schedule of events.
Lei Day Celebrations, various locations on all islands. May Day is Lei Day in Hawaii, celebrated with lei-making contests, pageantry, arts and crafts and music. For a list of Maui events go to www.visitmaui.com/maui/calendar, which includes the Lei Day Brothers Cazimero concert at the Castle Theatre (tel. 808/242-7469).
Molokai Ka Hula Piko Festival, Papohaku Beach Park, Kaluakoi, Molokai. This daylong celebration of the hula takes place in mid-May on the island where it was born. It features performances by hula schools, musicians, and singers from across Hawaii, as well as local food and Hawaiian crafts, including quilting, woodworking, feather work, and deer-horn scrimshaw. Call tel. 800/800-6367 or 808/553-3876 or go to www.molokaievents.com.
June
King Kamehameha Celebration, all islands. This state holiday (officially June 11, but celebrated on different dates on each island) features a massive floral parade, hoolaulea (party), and much more. Call tel. 808/667-9194 for Maui events, tel. 808/553-3876 for Molokai events, or go to http://hawaii.gov/dags/king_kamehameha_commission. Most events in 2012 will be held early to mid-June.
July
Molokai to Oahu Paddleboard Race, starts on Molokai and finishes on Oahu. Some 70 participants from an international field journey to Molokai to compete in this 32-mile race, considered to be the world championship of long-distance paddleboard racing. The race begins at Kepuhi Beach on Molokai at 7am and finishes at Maunaloa Bay on Oahu around 12:30pm. Call tel. 808/638-8208 or go to www.visitmolokai.com. Mid- to late July.
August
Admissions Day, all islands. This is a state holiday honoring the day (August 21, 1959) that Hawaii became the 50th state. All state-related facilities are closed. Third Friday in August.
September
Aloha Festivals, various locations on all islands. Parades and other events celebrate Hawaiian culture and friendliness throughout the state. Call tel. 808/878-1888 or go to www.festivalsofaloha.com.
Na Wahine O Ke Kai, Molokai. The top women canoe paddlers from across the state will arrive at Hale Lono Harbor on Molokai and paddle across the ocean to Oahu. Call tel. 808/259-7112 or go to www.molokai-hawaii.com. Mid-September.
October
Molokai Hoe, Molokai to Oahu. This men's 40-mile outrigger contest starts in Molokai and finishes at Fort DeRussy Beach in Waikiki. Call tel. 808/259-7112 or go to www.molokai-hawaii.com or www.holoholo.com.
November
Hawaii International Film Festival, various locations throughout the state. This cinema festival with a cross-cultural spin features filmmakers from Asia, the Pacific Islands, and the United States. Call tel. 808/792-1577 or go to www.hiff.org. Late October or early November.
December
Christmas Light Parade, Kaunakakai, Molokai. This is a light parade with music and holiday arts and crafts. Call tel. 808/552-2800. Mid-December.
Festival of Lights, all islands. On Maui, marching bands, floats, and Santa roll down Lahaina's Front Street in an annual parade. Molokai celebrates with a host of activities in Kaunakakai. Call tel. 808/667-9175 for Maui and go to www.visitmolokai.com for Molokai. Early December.
The Island in Brief
Kaunakakai ★
This central, usually sunny town on the south side is the island’s closest approximation to a downtown. Nearly every restaurant, store, and community facility on the island lies within a few blocks of one another. You’ll find a public library with a great Hawaiian history section, two gas stations, and Friendly’s Market, where aloha spirit is required for entry—according to a note taped to the front door. The state’s longest pier serves fishing boats, outrigger canoes, and kids enjoying a dip in the ocean. Other than Saturday mornings, when it seems as if the entire island (pop. 7,400) turns out for the farmer’s market, it’s easy to find a parking space among the pickup trucks.
Central Uplands & North Shore ★★
Upland from Kaunakakai, Hawaiian homesteaders in Hoolehua tend small plots near the state’s largest producer of organic papaya and the main airport. In the nearby plantation town of Kualapuu, the smell of Coffees of Hawaii’s roasting beans perks up hikers and mule riders returning from Kalaupapa National Historical Park ★★★ on the North Shore’s isolated peninsula, where generations of people diagnosed with leprosy (now called Hansen’s disease) were exiled. The forest grows denser and the air cooler as Kalae Highway (Hwy. 470) passes the island’s lone golf course and ends at Palaau State Park ★★, known for its phallic rock and dramatic overlook of Kalaupapa, some 1,700 feet below. To the east stand the world’s tallest sea cliffs, 3,600 to 3,900 feet, which bracket the North Shore’s cascading waterfalls, lush valleys, and dramatic islets, all virtually inaccessible. Fishing charters, helicopter tours from Maui, and, in summer, a strenuous kayak trip can bring them within closer view.
The West End ★
Molokai Ranch (www.molokairanch.com) owns most of the rugged, often arid West End of the island, famous for the nearly 3-mile-long Papohaku Beach ★★★—and not much else since the ranch shut down in 2008, closing its lodge, beach camp, movie theater, and golf course, among other facilities. The plantation-era village of Maunaloa at the end of the Maunaloa Highway (Hwy. 460) remains a virtual ghost town, and the decaying buildings of Kaluakoi Hotel (closed in 2001), above Kepuhi Beach ★★, look like a set from Lost. Summer is the best time to explore the shoreline here, although the crash of winter waves provides a convenient sleep aid for inhabitants of the three still-open condo developments on the overgrown Kaluakoi resort. Look out for axis deer when driving here at night; wild turkeys rule the roost by day.
The East End ★★★
From Kaunakakai, the two-lane King Kamehameha V Highway (Hwy. 450) heads 27 miles east past coastal fishponds and sculpted hillsides to Halawa Valley. This stunning, culturally significant enclave is only accessible by guided tour, though anyone may drive to the road’s end and explore Halawa Beach Park ★★. Before the road makes its final dip to the valley, pull over for a distant view of 500-foot Hipuapua Falls and 250-foot, two-tiered Mooula Falls (also known as Moaula Falls). Before you arrive, though, you’ll pass pocket beaches, a mom-and-pop grocery/take-out counter, two churches built by Father Damien, and picturesque Puu O Hoku, a working cattle ranch and biodynamic farm that also serves as a reserve for nene, the endangered state bird. Stop here for local honey and fresh produce. This is the rainier half of the island, with more frequent showers January through March, but be careful: The sun still blazes here, too.
