If you, like us, are a devotee of antipasti, the best offering of this delight is at the Osteria Perricci, 1 Via Orazio Cornes (tel. 080-937-2208). Though you may disagree, we've found that the best antipasto selection in all of Puglia is offered here in the form of salt-cod fritters, fresh anchovies, boiled octopus, raw cuttlefish, tomato bruschetta -- you name it. Main dishes are served as well, but we've never been able to eat beyond the antipasti.

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