Everyone who walks into this cheery, famliy-run restaurant walks out rooting for its success. That's because the hardworking couple who own El Cantaro (along with her father) are on a mission: they want to bring healthier, GMO-free, sustainable, food to the United States. But they push that agenda with big, wide smiles and some of the tastiest, freshest grub in town. Head up to the counter to order and you'll see what I mean. As soon as you're seated, a plate of complimentary chips and salsa will arrive at your table, important as this really isn't a fast food place. Every order is cooked individually, so there will be a delay between paying for your food and eating it. Your patience will be rewarded with tacos, tortas, pozole soup, moles and more that are awash in flavor and pleaing textures, dishes that either mimic fish, meat and poultry dishes, and ones that don't try to pretend to be anything other than what they are. Best on the menu: the fab "ceviche", the mashed potato tacos, the pozole and the cactus huaraches.

Two tips: the cooks here aren't shy about spice, so ask for it mild if you're not into fiery food. And bring a handful of change with you when you dine. Often the tiny parking lot out front is full, and the meters on the street only take coins.