In the summer, the outdoor dining options that line Place Jacques Cartier are tempting but touristy. Le Jardin Nelson has a people-watching porch adjacent to the plaza, but you’re better off tucking into its large tree-shaded garden court, which sits behind a stone building dating from 1812. It’s still touristy, but a pleasant hour or two can be spent listening to live jazz, played every afternoon and evening. Food takes second place, but the kitchen does well with its pizzas and crêpes, with crêpe options both sweet and savory. There are heaters outdoors to cut the chill and a few tables indoors, too. When the weather’s nice, it’s open as late as 1am; but it’s closed November through mid-April.