This large, high-ceilinged space offers a chic atmosphere with copper walls, tall columns, and expansive windows overlooking busy rue McGill. Chalkboards dotted throughout feature the day’s specials, along with wine and beer selections. Holder offers good value for what you get: the expansive menu of primarily French classics will satisfy nearly every appetite. Standout items include fois gras au torchon and gravlax appetizers, and classic beef tartare in both appetizer and main course sizes. Holder’s take on steak frites featuring grilled hanger steak is dependably good, as is the lobster ravioli, served with truffle oil and beurre blanc. The weekend brunch offers more modestly priced items that are just as good, but more along the lines of breakfast food. Reservations are recommended on weekends.
- Leslie Brokaw, Erin Trahan, Matthew Barber