When clotted cream gets top billing, you know a place is serious about their brunch. Lawrence serves one of the best biscuitlike pancake marvels we have ever had: the stuff of dreams, soaked in Canadian maple syrup and topped with local strawberries. Blatant about its British affections (hello, plaid couch), Lawrence takes masterful turns with pub standards like bubble and squeak or classic English breakfast for brunch. Lunch and dinner lean more contemporary Québécois: oysters, charcuterie, grilled mackerel, and lamb’s liver, for example. Whatever the provenance, the food is excellent. Service is friendly even if you’re not one of the regulars, who all seem to be 30-somethings who biked over in vintage dresses and bowling shirts. Reservations recommended.
- Leslie Brokaw, Erin Trahan, Matthew Barber