Beloved by Montréalers and visitors alike for its old-timey Parisian style, there’s almost always a wait for tables at L’Express. Main courses include the usual bistro fare, from pot-au-feu to duck confit, and the maple syrup pie is outstanding. (It’s possible that the globe lights, glossy maroon walls, and checkered floor make the food taste even more French.) A 50-person service team runs a smooth ship, though at busier times, like brunch, the kitchen may grind to a halt. Try for a reservation or drop in to see if there’s an opening at the bar. One more thing: it’s easy to miss. Look for the name spelled out in tile on the sidewalk out front.