Getting Around

All ferries from Papeete land at Vaiare on Moorea's east coast 5km (3 miles) south of Temae Airport.

By Bus -- The only scheduled buses on Moorea are those that carry passengers from and to the morning and afternoon ferries at Vaiare. Tell the drivers where you're going; they will show you which vehicle is going to your hotel. The trip from Vaiare to the end of the line at the old Club Med site takes about 1 hour. The buses also return from the Petite Village shopping center in Haapiti to Vaiare, leaving the shopping center about 1 hour prior to each ferry departure. They go by the hotels, so ask the front-desk staff when you can expect the next bus to pass. Or you can flag them down along the road elsewhere. The one-way fare is 500CFP (US$6.25/£3.15), regardless of direction or length of ride.

By Taxi -- Unless you catch a ferry bus or rent a vehicle, you're at the expensive mercy of Moorea's taxi owners, who don't run around looking for customers. The only taxi stand is at the airport (tel. 56.10.18). It's staffed daily from 6am to 6pm. Your hotel desk can call one for you, or else phone Pero Taxis (tel. 56.14.93), Albert Tours (tel. 56.13.53), or Justine Taxi (tel. 77.48.26). Make advance reservations for service between 6pm and 6am.

Fares are 800CFP (US$10/£5) during the day, 1,700CFP (US$21/£11) at night, plus 110CFP (US$1.35/70p) per kilometer. They double from 8pm to 6am. Expect to pay about 2,000CFP (US$25/£13) one-way from the ferry or airport to the Cook's Bay area, about 4,000CFP (US$50/£25) one-way from the airport or Cook's Bay to the Haapiti area, less for stops along the way. Be sure that you understand what the fare will be before you get in.

By Rental Car & Scooter -- Avis (tel. 800/331-1212 or 56.32.68; www.avis.com) and Europcar (tel. 800/227-7368 or 56.34.00; www.europcar-tahiti.com) both have booths at the Vaiare ferry wharf and at several hotels. Although I usually rent from Avis, Europcar is the more widespread and slightly less expensive of the two, with unlimited-kilometer rates starting at 9,300CFP (US$116/£59) a day. The local firm Albert Rent-a-Car (tel. 56.19.28) is the least expensive, with unlimited-kilometer rates starting at 8,000CFP (US$100/£50) for a day.

In addition to automobiles, Europcar also rents little "Bugsters" (noisy contraptions with two seats and no top) for about 8,800CFP (US$110/£55) a day. They are fun to drive on sunny days. So are scooters, which Albert rents starting at 5,000CFP (US$63/£32) for 4 hours and 6,000CFP (US$75/£38) for 24 hours, including full insurance, and unlimited kilometers.

Making reservations for cars and scooters is a very good idea, especially on weekends, when many Tahiti residents come to Moorea.

By Bicycle -- The 60km (36-mile) road around Moorea is relatively flat. The two major hills are on the west side of Cook's Bay and just behind the Sofitel Moorea Ia Ora Beach Resort (the latter is worth the climb, as it has a stupendous view of Tahiti). Some resorts have bikes for their guests to use, and Europcar rents mountain bikes for about 1,600CFP (US$20/£10) for 8 hours, 2,000CFP (US$25/£13) all day.

Fast Facts

Bookstores -- Kina Maharepa, in the Maharepa shopping center (tel. 56.22.44), has English-language novels and magazines. Supersonics, in Le Petit Village shopping center opposite Club Med (tel. 56.14.96), carries some English-language magazines and newspapers.

Camera & Film -- The hotel boutiques, along with the aforementioned Kina Maharepa and Supersonics , all sell film.

Currency Exchange -- Banque Socredo, Banque de Tahiti, and Banque de Polynésie have offices and ATMs in or near the Maharepa shopping center. Banque de Polynésie has an ATM and a currency-exchange machine (but not an office) in Le Petit Village shopping center in Haapiti. Bring cash or traveler's checks if you're staying on the northwest corner, or be prepared to put most of your expenditures on a credit card. Banks are open Monday through Friday from 8am to noon and 1:30 to 4:30pm.

Drugstores -- Pharmacie Moorea (tel. 56.10.51) is in Maharepa. The owner, Tran Thai Thanh, is a Vietnamese refugee who speaks English. It's open Monday to Friday from 7:30am to noon and 2:30 to 4:30pm, Saturday from 8am to noon and 3:30 to 6pm, and Sunday and holidays from 8 to 10am. The owner speaks English.

Emergencies & Police -- The emergency police phone number is tel. 17. The phone number for the gendarmerie in Cook's Bay is tel. 56.13.44. Local police have offices at Pao Pao (tel. 56.13.63) and at Haapiti (tel. 56.10.84), near Club Med.

Eyeglasses -- Try Optique Moorea in the Maharepa shopping center (tel. 56.55.44).

Healthcare -- The island's infirmary, which has an ambulance, is at Afareaitu on the southwest coast (tel. 56.24.24). Several doctors are in private practice; ask your hotel staff for a recommendation.

Internet Access -- Every hotel has Internet access for its guests. In Cook's Bay, Top Phone (tel. 56.57.57) has fast Internet access for 200CFP (US$2.50/£1.25) for 15 minutes. It also sells VINI cellphone SIM cards. Open Monday to Friday 8am to 5pm, Saturday 8am to noon. In Haapiti, Polynesian Arts (tel. 70.66.38), in Le Petit Village, also has fast access at 20CFP (US25¢/15p) a minute. Open Monday to Saturday 8:30am to 6pm. You can burn your digital photos onto CDs at either.

Mail -- Moorea's main post office is in the Maharepa shopping center. It's open Monday through Thursday from 7:30am to noon and 1:30 to 4pm, Friday from 7:30am to noon and 1:30 to 3pm, and Saturday from 7:30 to 9:30am. A post office in Papetoai village is open Monday through Thursday from 7:30am to noon and 1:30 to 4pm, Friday from 7:30am to noon and 1:30 to 3pm, and Saturday from 8 to 10am.

Taxes -- Moorea's municipal government adds 100CFP to 150CFP (US$1.25-US$1.85/65p-95p) per night to your hotel bill. Don't complain: The money helps keep the island litter-free.

Visitor Information -- The Moorea Visitors Bureau, B.P. 1121, 98279 Papetoai (tel. 56.29.09; www.gomoorea.com), has an office at Le Petit Village shopping center in Haapiti. Open Monday to Thursday 8am to 4pm, Friday 8am to 3pm, holidays 8am to noon (more or less; they sometimes change).

Water -- Tap water on Moorea is not safe to drink, so buy bottled water at any grocery store. Some hotels filter their water; ask if it's safe before drinking from the tap.

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