For nighttime entertainment, check the calendar of events at the Instituto Michoacano de Cultura. In addition, you can sit at one of the cafes under the stone arches across from the Plaza de Armas to do some people-watching (a very Moreliano thing to do). For dancing, go to La Casa de la Salsa (tel. 443/313-9362), a large dance hall facing Plaza Morelos at the end of the Calzada Fray Antonio de San Miguel. It's open Tuesday through Saturday from 9pm to 3am. It books live music on Friday and Saturday (50-peso cover charge). You can call ahead to reserve a table; the band plays a lot of salsa, merengue, and mambo. If you want live Latin American folk music, a drink, and something to eat, try Peña Colibrí (tel. 443/312-2261), Galeana 36, behind the Virrey de Mendoza. It opens daily at 8pm and closes around midnight.

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