This patch of green in central Moscow is a great getaway from the buzz of nearby Tverskaya Street and the Garden Ring, and an unmatchable spot for lazy people-watching. Mikhail Bulgakov made the neighborhood famous and gave it a permanently bohemian reputation with his novel Master and Margarita, in which the devil meets the protagonists next to the ponds. There's actually just one pond now, which serves as an ice rink in winter and shelters a few swans in summer. Kids appreciate the playground, surrounded by bronze screens depicting the fables of another favorite Russian author, Ivan Krylov. The benches fill up in late afternoon, as young people congregate with guitars and beer. Nearby Café Margarita carries on the Bulgakov tradition, and offers funky fare along with Gypsy or jazz music.