Planning a trip to Moscow

Fast Facts

American Express -- The main local office is at 33 Usacheva Ulitsa, building 1 (tel. 495/933-8400). It's open from 9am to 7pm Monday through Friday. The office doesn't sell or cash Amex checks itself, but will tell you which nearby banks cash them. In the U.S., call tel. 800/221-7282.

Business Hours -- Businesses generally operate from 9am until 6pm. A few stores and businesses still take a lunch break around 1 to 2pm. Some shops are closed Sunday, but museums and restaurants are generally open. Many restaurants and bars are open 24 hours.

Convention Centers -- Most of Moscow's big hotels are equipped to accommodate conventions and large conferences. The chief venue is the World Trade Center at Mezhdunarodnaya Hotel, 12 Krasnopresnenskaya Naberezhnaya (tel. 495/258-1212; http://wtcmoscow.ru).

Currency Exchange -- Exchange booths (obmen valyuty) are found in every hotel, at many restaurants, and near all major metro stations. Many are open 24 hours, and most are well-guarded, reliable places to change cash. Rates are better than in most banks, and they're competitive, so shop around. Most don't charge a commission, and when they do, it's low -- around a dollar. Make sure your U.S. bills or euros are new and untainted; crinkled or pre-1995 bills will be rejected. Exchange booths have signs out front with four figures: the buy and sell rates for U.S. dollars, and the buy and sell rates for euros. To exchange other currencies, try the banks, the underground passage next to Arbatskaya metro station, and the booth on the corner of Pokrovka Ulitsa and Pokrovsky Bulvar. Banks can give cash advances on a credit card in rubles.

Dentists -- For good international-standard dentistry, including emergencies, try US Dental Care, 7/5 Bolshaya Dmitrovka, building 2 (tel. 495/933-8686; www.usdentalcare.com).

Doctors -- The following facilities offer Western-standard medical care and English-speaking staff who can help with everything from a broken limb to a bad flu. They are private clinics whose services are expensive and may not be covered by your insurance company, so be sure to check with your insurer before you go.

• American Medical Center Moscow, 26 Prospekt Mira (tel. 495/933-7700; www.amcenter.ru/en).
• European Medical Center, 5 Spiridonievskiy Pereulok 5, building 1 (tel. 495/933-6655; www.emcmos.ru).
• International SOS Clinic, 31 Grokholsky Pereulok, 10th floor of Polyclinic no. 1 (tel. 495/937-5760; www.sosclinic.ru).

Electricity -- Russia operates on 220-volt AC, like the rest of Europe. Bring converters if you have electrical equipment from North America, since they're harder to find in Russia. Most modern hotels use plugs with two thick prongs, as in continental Europe; some older hotels will need plugs with two thinner prongs. Small plastic adapters for these old plugs are available in Russian hardware stores, or often from the hotel staff. To guard against electricity surges for items like laptops, bring a stabilizer, too.

Embassies -- All embassies are located in Moscow, the capital, with consulates for several countries in St. Petersburg as well.

• United States: 8 Bolshoi Devyatinsky Pereulok; tel. 495/728-5000; emergency after hours 495/728-5025.
• Britain: 10 Smolenskaya Naberezhnaya; tel. 495/956-7200.
• Canada: 23 Starokonyushenniy Pereulok; tel. 495/925-6000; night line 495/925-6000.
• Australia: 10A/2 Podkolokolny Pereulok; tel. 495/956-6070.
• Ireland: 5 Grokholsky Pereulok; tel. 495/937-5911.

Emergencies -- For fire, dial 01; police, 02; ambulance, 03. For medical emergencies, see the "Doctors" listing, above. In extreme cases, the international clinics will send you to a better-equipped Russian hospital with a translator.

Eyeglass Repair -- Almost any eyeglass store, called optika, will make minor repairs, often for free.

Holidays -- Moscow's pace slows a bit during holidays, but it doesn't come to a halt. Many museums and restaurants remain open but with limited hours. Check with your hotel concierge or call the establishment you want to visit to make sure it's open.

Hospitals -- Some doctors speak English, but most of the Russian hospital staff is unlikely to, so get a translator if you need hospitalization. Ask your hotel for translator suggestions. These are some of the biggest and (relatively) good hospitals:

• Botkin City Hospital, 5 Second Botkinsky Proyezd; tel. 495/252-9488.
• City Hospital No. 1 (Pirogovksy), 8 Leninsky Prospekt; tel. 499/764-5022.
• Morozovskaya Children's Hospital, 1/9 4 Dobryninskiy Pereulok; tel. 495/959-8904.

Internet Access -- Though most Russians don't have computers, much less online access, Internet cafes are increasingly available in downtown Moscow. Most hotel business centers also offer Wi-Fi or online access, though at steeper rates. Try 24-hour Time Online on the bottom floor of the Okhotny Ryad shopping center next to the Kremlin (1 Manezhnaya Ploshchad; www.timeonline.ru). Or try CafeMax, a chain of cafes around town. Two convenient ones are at 25 Pyatnitskaya, building 1, near Novokuznetskaya metro station; and at 3 Novoslobodskaya Ulitsa, near Novoslobodskaya metro station. See www.cafemax.ru for other locations.

Language -- Russian is the principal language, a Slavic tongue that uses the Cyrillic alphabet. English is becoming more common but is not as widespread as in western Europe. In most hotels, at tourist sites, and in central Moscow, visitors should have no trouble communicating in English. Younger people are far more likely to speak it well than their elders. The main challenge is the Russian alphabet. Despite efforts to print signs in the Latin alphabet (the one used for western European languages), most streets and metro stations are labeled in Cyrillic. It is well worth it to learn the 33-letter alphabet, which is very phonetic and shares many letters with English. When buying a phrase book, make sure it has good phonetic transliterations of Russian words ("spa-see-ba" is "thank you," for example).

Liquor Laws -- The official drinking age in Russia is 18, but it is almost never enforced. Drinking in public is acceptable (despite a recent law against it), and seeing teenagers clutching beers on their way home from school is common. Beer, wine, and liquor -- primarily vodka, but also such cocktails as gin and tonic in a can -- are available at all supermarkets and most street kiosks. Beware of cheap vodka from kiosks, since it's often watered down or of stomach-wrenching quality. Bars with special licenses can serve alcohol all night, and many do. Some stores are closed on Sunday, but those that are open sell liquor then as well as every other day.

Mail -- Russia's postal service is underfunded and unreliable. Postcards are a safe bet, though they may not arrive until you're back home. Postcards and letters to western Europe and North America cost about 26 rubles ($1/50p); letters cost 16 rubles (70¢/35p). Both should be addressed Russian-style; see examples posted up in the post office. Shipping packages through the regular post is not recommended, because there's nothing you can do if it gets lost or damaged, and because of the complex Customs rules. Several international shipping companies serve Russia, such as FedEx (tel. 495/788-8881), DHL (tel. 495/956-1000), and UPS (tel. 495/961-2211), though their services are not cheap.

Newspapers & Magazines -- The International Herald Tribune, Financial Times, and other English-language publications are on sale at the chain hotels and some of the larger Russian hotels, but they're not available at newsstands around the city. The English-language daily The Moscow Times (www.themoscowtimes.com) is the most comprehensive and even-handed reference for news and entertainment listings in English. The Russia Journal (www.russiajournal.com) offers more politicized coverage in English, while the eXile (www.exileonline.com) is known for its raunchy commentary and detailed bar, restaurant, and club listings. These three publications are free and available at many hotels and restaurants, though not at newsstands. For Russian speakers, Vedomosti, Kommersant, and Izvestia newspapers are the most respected; Afisha is the weekly magazine of note for entertainment, dining, and shopping advice.

Pharmacies -- The number of pharmacies, called apteka and marked by a blue cross, is growing rapidly in Russia's cities. One good chain is called 36.6 (www.366.ru), with branches all over Moscow; another is Dr. Stoletov (www.stoletov.ru). Check with your hotel concierge for the all-night pharmacy nearest you.

Police -- Call tel. 02.

Post Office -- The main international post office is at 26 Myasnitskaya (tel. 495/628-6311). It's open daily 8am to 7:45pm. Letters and postcards are mailed from the first floor in the main building; packages go through the annex, reached through the arch to the right of the main entrance.

Salons -- Salons are ubiquitous in Moscow, one of the most image-conscious world capitals. The simpler parikmakherskaya salons tucked on side streets are cheaper, while the salon krasoty on the chic shopping streets can cost a fortune and offer a range of beauty treatments. Most cut both men's and women's hair. For a big night out, you'll find English-speaking staff at chain Yves Rocher, whose main salon is at 4 Tverskaya (tel. 495/923-5885), or at Gerlen at Hotel National 15/1 Mokhovaya Ulitsa (tel. 495/258-7179).

Smoking -- Russians smoke heavily, and nonsmokers are rarely catered to. Expensive hotels and an increasing number of restaurants offer nonsmoking options, so don't be afraid to ask. Bars are universally smoky. Smoking is forbidden on public transport and in museums. Crude Russian cigarettes cost about 40 rubles a pack, while Russian-made Marlboros, available at any street kiosk, cost slightly more. Imported brands cost 90 rubles and up.

Taxes -- VAT (value-added tax) of up to 18% is always included in the list price of store items and restaurant bills, though not always in hotel rates. It's a good idea to ask if you're unsure. The VAT cannot be refunded upon departure as it is in European cities. There is no sales tax in Moscow.

Telephone -- While cellphone service is quite advanced, Russia's traditional phone service remains so basic that many of those cell owners are still on waiting lists for land lines. Just a few years ago you had to order all international calls in advance. Today you can dial directly, but poor connections and disconnections are common on land lines.

To call Russia: If you're calling Russia from the United States:

1. Dial the international access code 011.

2. Dial the country code 7.

3. Dial the city code (495 for Moscow, 812 for St. Petersburg) and then the seven-digit number. So the whole number you'd dial would be 011-7-495-000-0000.

Calling from Russia: To make any long-distance call from within Russia, international or domestic, you must dial 8 first, then wait for a tone.

To make international calls: To make international calls from Russia, first dial 8, then wait for a tone, then dial 10, then dial the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand, 64). Next, dial the area code and number. For example, if you want to call the Russian Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial 8 (tone) 10-1-202-298-5700. If you are calling from a hotel, you may have to dial 9 before dialing the 8, depending on hotel policy.

To call from city to city within Russia: First dial 8, then wait for a tone, then dial the city code and the number. For example, calling St. Petersburg from Moscow would look like this: 8 (tone) 812-777-1000.

To call within Russian cities: Just dial the five- to seven-digit number. Local calls are free.

For directory assistance: Dial 07 if you're looking for a number inside Russia, but only if you speak Russian.

For operator assistance: If you need operator assistance in making an international call, dial 8, then wait for a tone, then dial 194. You can also try 077. If you need help calling a number in Russia, dial 08, but few operators speak English.

Toll-free numbers: You cannot phone a 1-800 number in the United States from Russia, so be sure to have standard toll numbers for all your credit card companies and travel agencies before you leave.

Pay phones: Russia has largely phased out its coin-operated phones for card-operated ones. The coin-run ones rarely work and should be avoided. If you get stuck with one, they accept 1-, 2-, and 5-ruble coins. Cards for the other phones can be purchased at most metro stations and at many hotel kiosks in Moscow and St. Petersburg. Not all phones accept all kinds of phone cards, and not all phone cards allow international calls. The most common is Moscow City Telephone Service, known as MGTS by its Russian initials. Most cards provide instructions in English, though the phones use only Russian and internationally recognizable symbols.

International calling cards: Direct access numbers for AT&T in Moscow are tel. 755-5042 and 325-5042; MCI is tel. 747-3322; BT Direct is tel. 10-80-01-10-1044 (dial 8 first and wait for the tone); Canada Direct is tel. 755-5045 or 747-3325.

Time Zone -- Moscow is 3 hours ahead of GMT from October to March, and 4 hours ahead during daylight saving time. That means it's usually 3 hours ahead of London, 8 hours ahead of New York, and 11 hours ahead of San Francisco. Russia switches to daylight saving time a week earlier than Europe and North America, and reverts to standard time a week earlier, too. To check the current time from any fixed-line phone, dial 065 (Russian only).

Tipping -- Restaurants generally include service charges in the bill, though small tips are welcome. Taxis usually set the rate before you head out, so no tip is expected. Baggage handlers and coat-check staffers should be tipped the equivalent of a dollar or so.

Useful Phone Numbers -- U.S. Dept. of State Travel Advisory: tel. 202/647-5225 (staffed 24 hr.)

U.S. Passport Agency: tel. 202/647-0518

U.S. Centers for Disease Control International Traveler's Hotline: tel. 404/332-4559.

Tips for Families

Russia can be a daunting place with kids but an unforgettable experience for them. A major challenge is the Cyrillic alphabet -- but you can turn that into a family game by setting out to learn its 33 letters together (many are the same as in English), and then sounding out street signs together ("Look, PECTOPAH means restaurant!"). Travel with small children is difficult, since few restaurants have highchairs, and nothing is stroller-friendly -- even the pharmacies have steps and unwieldy doors. Because Russians travel infrequently with their children, there are few hotels with specifically kid-friendly services, though that doesn't mean they're hostile to families. Also be prepared for unsolicited child-rearing advice from well-meaning Russian grandmothers, who always seem to think that children are underdressed no matter what the temperature. Russian circuses are world-renowned, and the Moscow Zoo and Gorky Park are good family destinations. There are several puppet theaters in Moscow.

Recommended family travel websites include Family Travel Forum (www.familytravelforum.com), a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning; Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), an online magazine providing travel tips; and TravelWithYourKids.com (www.travelwithyourkids.com), a comprehensive site written by parents for parents, offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling. There are more options and resources out there than ever before. That said, Russia remains a formidable destination for anyone in a wheelchair. Only the biggest and priciest hotels and restaurants are accessible. Many of Moscow's wide streets can be crossed only underground without ramps. Even some tourist destinations that claim to be accessible have a few stairs leading up to the cash desk, or into the church. Call every place you plan to visit before you go and be sure it can accommodate you.

Organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS [2255-6677]; www.mossresourcenet.org); the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org); and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org). AirAmbulanceCard.com is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com) offers a comprehensive database on travel agents from around the world with experience in accessible travel; destination-specific access information; and links to such resources as service animals, equipment rentals, and access guides.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel. Avis Rent a Car (tel. 888/879-4273) has an "Avis Access" program that offers services for customers with special travel needs. These include specially outfitted vehicles with swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand controls; mobility scooter rentals; and accessible bus service. Be sure to reserve well in advance.

Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com), available by subscription ($16.95 a year in U.S.; $21.95 outside U.S.).

The "Accessible Travel" link at Mobility-Advisor.com (www.mobility-advisor.com) offers a variety of travel resources to persons with disabilities.

British travelers should contact Holiday Care (tel. 0845-124-9971 in U.K. only; www.holidaycare.org.uk) to access a wide range of travel information and resources for seniors and persons with disabilities.

Tips for Women Travelers

There are no restrictions on women's travel or activity in Russia. Soviet planners succeeded at employing women in every sector of the economy, but failed to change traditional views on gender. As a result, Russian women go to work all day and do all the cooking, cleaning, child-care, and shopping. Russian men retain traditions such as opening doors for women, carrying women's bags (even strangers'), and picking up the check when in a restaurant or bar. Women traveling alone should be careful walking the streets at night, as you could be mistaken for a prostitute or otherwise hassled. Check out the award-winning website Journeywoman (www.journeywoman.com), a "real-life" women's travel-information network where you can sign up for a free e-mail newsletter and get advice on everything from etiquette and dress to safety. The travel guide Safety and Security for Women Who Travel by Sheila Swan and Peter Laufer (Travelers' Tales Guides), offering common-sense tips on safe travel, was updated in 2004.

Neighborhoods in Brief

Moscow is divided into six districts, or okrugs, with most of the activity focused on the Central district. The best way to view the city is as a daisylike flower, with neighborhoods stretching like petals from the center core toward the "ring roads" outlined above. Most historical buildings and key sights are within the Boulevard Ring; museums are within the Garden Ring; and hotels, restaurants, and shopping for all budgets are found everywhere. The area from the Kremlin to the Boulevard Ring was known historically as the "Bely Gorod," or "White Town," because of the white stone walls that encircled it to fend off outsiders. The area between the Boulevard and Garden rings was called "Zemlyanoi Gorod," or "Earth Town," after its earthen ramparts.

At the center is The Kremlin, a village unto itself, with cathedrals, palaces, an enormous concert and congress hall, and of course the seat of presidential power -- all surrounded by imposing red-brick walls that extend for 2.5km (1 1/2 miles). On its east side is Red Square, the epicenter of the city and the country. The square abuts a small neighborhood called Kitai-Gorod. This is almost like an annex to the Kremlin, with a dense collection of churches, old merchants' courtyards, and administrative buildings clustered on quiet streets overlooking the Moscow River. Its name today translates as "Chinatown," but more likely comes from an old Russian term for battlements because of its proximity to the Kremlin. The area boasts many restaurants but few hotels.

The primary petal of Moscow's daisy is undoubtedly Tverskaya Street, shooting north from Red Square in the direction of Russia's other imperial city, St. Petersburg. Moscow's most important thoroughfare, Tverskaya throbs with commerce, cafes, and nightclubs, with the columns of City Hall overseeing it all. Tverskaya and its environs include key hotels and museums, and offer close-up views of Moscow's breakneck post-Soviet evolution. Hotels right on Tverskaya suffer from its 24-hour schedule; those on the side streets are calmer but farther from the action.

The more true-to-tradition Petrovka district slopes eastward from Tverskaya. It includes several old and new restaurants, boutiques, and (mostly upmarket) hotels, in addition to two monasteries and a historic bathhouse. Curving southeast from there is the Ukrainian Quarter, whose steep and crooked lanes unveil architectural treasures tucked behind embassies and run-down government buildings. Accommodations here are limited, but the area is great for wandering. As you continue to circle Red Square clockwise, you cross the Moscow River to the Zamoskvarechye neighborhood on the opposite bank. Moving northwest, you come to aristocratic Ostozhenka and Prechistenka streets and the Arbat district, centered around the pedestrian Arbat Street lined with souvenir shops and cafes. Touristy but colorful, the Arbat is surrounded by alleys rich in literary legend and by a few convenient, reasonably priced hotels.

Outside the Garden Ring Road lie many hotels, as well as former "country mansions" now museums or concert halls surrounded by urbanism. Basing yourself beyond the center means you'll need more travel time to see city sights, but if your hotel is close to a metro station, the distance shouldn't be a hindrance.

The Boulevard Ring

The innermost of Moscow's concentric circles is both a main traffic artery and one of the world's most oddly shaped parks. The Boulevard Ring, actually a semicircle tracing a hump through central Moscow, is a road split down the middle by a 9.7km-long (6-mile) green space. It's lined with paths and benches, and interrupted by a couple of playgrounds, a pond, several monuments, and busy intersections. If you have a free afternoon and the weather cooperates, wander one or more segments of the "bulvar" -- an activity that Muscovites call the cheapest amusement in town.

The lines of the boulevard date back to the 14th century, when ramparts were erected to defend the city that had grown up between here and the Kremlin. White stone walls were installed in the 16th century, giving the settlements within the ramparts the nickname "Bely Gorod" or "White Town." Towers, chapels, and gates marked the spots where major intersections now throng with traffic and pedestrians, and the current names of some crossings reflect that era, such as Nikitsky Gates and Sretensky Gates. The ramparts were razed piece by piece in the 18th century and replaced with leafy alleys and wrought-iron lampposts much such as those standing today. When Napoleon's army entered an abandoned and charred Moscow in 1812, soldiers chopped down many of the boulevard's trees for fuel. Today, it is lined with linden and poplar trees, and if you wander the ring in June, you may be sprinkled by white poplar tufts that Russians call their "summer snow."

A few key spots on the ring worth visiting are Pushkin Square, on either side of Tverskaya Street, a major gathering place and the most energized of the boulevard's intersections; the two statues of author Nikolai Gogol, one triumphant and prominent on Arbat Square, the other contemplative and intriguing in a courtyard on Nikitsky Bulvar; and Chistiye Prudy (Clean Ponds), actually a single pond at the far eastern end of the ring that serves as an outdoor skating rink in winter and boating pond in summer.

The Land Beyond the Moscow River

The neighborhood of Zamoskvarechye (Za-moss-kva-reh-cha), which translates as "the land beyond the Moscow River," abuts the very heart of Moscow, even though its name makes it sound like it's in the city's nether reaches. The area does feel different from the rest of town, however, making it well worth a wander at some point on your trip. Situated on a bell-shaped cluster of islands south of the Moscow River, it spreads from the embankment opposite the Kremlin's southern wall down to the Garden Ring. Settlements in Zamoskvarechye date back to at least the 13th century, when Mongol envoys camped here during visits to exact tribute from their Muscovite subjects. The Muscovites themselves eventually moved into the neighborhood, setting up fortified compounds to house the streltsy (palace guards), who served as a buffer protecting the Kremlin from raids from the south.

With the end of Mongol domination, the area began attracting craftsmen, who settled in walled compounds. Each housed a different guild -- tanners, weavers, barrel-makers, sheepskin curers -- and was run by a council of elected elders called a mirsky soviet. As the guilds flourished, they began building the neighborhood's churches, many of which remain standing. Their modest lines contrast with the designs of more resplendent cathedrals elsewhere in town.

Merchants trading in the Kitai-Gorod district across the river "discovered" Zamoskvarechye in the 19th century, building mansions there and sponsoring neighborhood artists and artisans -- eventually creating the country's first art museum, Tretyakov Gallery. By the early 20th century, Zamoskvarechye had become a major industrial district, but its factories grew up alongside the homes and churches instead of subsuming them. The district was touched by uglier episodes in Russian history, too: Bolotnaya Ploshchad (Marshy Square) was once the site of public executions, though it now houses a tranquil park and a statue of painter Ilya Repin. The House on the Embankment (the enormous gray complex on Bersenevskaya Naberezhnaya) was transformed from a prestigious residence for the Communist elite into a house of terror during Stalin's purges. Overall, the neighborhood's character remains artsy and more low-key than the rest of town, with galleries, antiques dealers, and cafes its major draw. Highlights include Tretyakov Gallery, the Obvodny Canal fountains around Luzhkov Bridge, and Pyatnitskaya Street. The nearest metro stations are Novokuznetskaya, Tretyakovskaya, and Polyanka.

Visitor Information

Hey, Google, did you get my text message? -- It's bound to happen: The day you leave this guidebook back at the hotel for an unencumbered stroll through Red Square, you'll forget the address of the lunch spot you had earmarked. If you're traveling with a mobile device, send a text message to tel. 46645 (GOOGL) for a lightning-fast response. For instance, type "carnegie deli new york" and within 10 seconds you'll receive a text message with the address and phone number. This nifty trick works in a range of search categories: Look up weather ("weather St. Petersburg"), language translations ("translate goodbye in russian"), currency conversions ("10 usd in rubles"), movie times ("harry potter 60605"), and more. If your search results are off, be more specific ("the abbey gay bar west hollywood"). For more tips and search options, see www.google.com/intl/en_us/mobile/sms/. Regular text message charges apply.

Surfing the "Ru-net" Before You Go

Soviet programmers created their own interactive "Web" back in the 1980s, and today's Runet (roo-net), as the Russian-language Internet world calls itself, is as vibrant as any online community. More and more Russian sites have English-language pages, and below are a few worth checking out before you go. The sometimes clumsy translations are compensated for by the information and guidance.

Museums

• www.tretyakov.ru: Site of Moscow's Tretyakov Gallery, another good introduction to Russian art.

News

• www.themoscowtimes.com: Site of English-language daily newspaper The Moscow Times. News, weather, exchange rates, entertainment, and restaurant listings.

Listings/General Information

• www.ru: Calls itself the "original Russian Web directory." Information-packed and searchable in English, but rather unwieldy.

Airlines/Airports

• www.aeroflot.ru/eng: Site of Russian airline Aeroflot, with schedules and fares.

Visa Information:

• www.russianembassy.org: Site of Russian Embassy in the United States, with visa applications and information and links to embassies and consulates in other countries.

Maps:

• www.infoservices.com/moscow/map/index.html: Maps of Moscow neighborhoods and sights.

Staying Healthy

No vaccinations are necessary to visit Russia, though there have been cases of diphtheria and cholera in provincial areas in recent years, and tuberculosis is a major problem in prisons. Most visitors' biggest health challenges are digestive from dubiously prepared street food. Bottled water is cheap and widely available. HIV is a growing problem, and prevention and public information campaigns are sorely inadequate.

General Availability of Healthcare

Soviet healthcare was universal and nearly free, though clinics were chronically short of equipment. State subsidies shriveled in the 1990s and shortages worsened; doctors remain dismally paid and depend heavily on bribes from patients. But competition is slowly emerging, and Moscow and St. Petersburg have several private clinics that offer high-standard care and English-speaking personnel, though at high prices.

Bring any prescriptions with you, and Imodium or other anti-diarrhea medication. All-night pharmacies are common in Moscow and over-the-counter medications are easily available, though generics are rarer. Foreign brands are often of better quality and always more expensive than their Russian equivalents. For the bold, even penicillin and IUDs can be purchased without a prescription.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; (tel. 716/754-4883 or, in Canada, 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provide up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

Common Ailments

Dietary Red Flags -- Moscow's water is potable but can be risky for foreigners. Avoid fried meat pies sold on the street and meat sold outdoors. Vegetarians are finding more and more options in Russia, mainly at restaurants that specialize in Japanese or American cuisine. However, nearly all restaurant soups are made with meat stock, and vegetable side dishes are often prepared in lard. Although Russia has substantial Muslim and Jewish minorities, very few restaurants cater to those with religious dietary restrictions.

Respiratory Illnesses -- Tuberculosis, virtually wiped out by Soviet health campaigns, has resurfaced in recent years, largely among prison populations. The disease is treatable but some strains have grown resistant to standard medicines. Another respiratory challenge is air quality, which is dismal in most Russian cities. Fuel emissions are restricted but the restrictions are barely enforced.

Extreme Weather Exposure -- Though Russia is no doubt a cold place, most travelers do not spend enough time outdoors in the winter to risk hypothermia or its milder cousin, frostbite. Visitors engaging in a lot of outdoor winter activity should carry many layers of clothing and thermoses of warm liquid.

What To Do If You Get Sick Away From Home

Any foreign consulate can provide you with a list of area doctors who speak English. If you get sick, consider asking your hotel concierge to recommend a local doctor -- even his or her own. You can also try the emergency room at a local hospital. Finding doctors or all-night pharmacies can be hard in Moscow if you know no Russian, and is much easier with a Russian helper or hotel concierge. You will pay as you go no matter where you seek help, and prices can vary from a few dollars in a public clinic for emergency care to hundreds of dollars in a private one. Foreigners are sometimes charged more just because they are assumed to have more money than Russians.

For travel abroad, you may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later. Medicare and Medicaid do not provide coverage for medical costs outside the U.S. Before leaving home, find out what medical services your health insurance covers. To protect yourself, consider buying medical travel insurance.

Very few health insurance plans pay for medical evacuation back to the U.S. (which can cost $10,000 and up). A number of companies offer medical evacuation services anywhere in the world. If you're ever hospitalized more than 150 miles from home, MedjetAssist (tel. 800/527-7478; www.medjetassistance.com) will pick you up and fly you to the hospital of your choice virtually anywhere in the world in a medically equipped and staffed aircraft 24 hours day, 7 days a week. Annual memberships are $225 individual, $350 family; you can also purchase short-term memberships.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. For conditions like epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a MedicAlert identification tag (tel. 888/633-4298; www.medicalert.org), which will immediately alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through MedicAlert's 24-hour hot line.

Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry prescription medications in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through airport security. Also bring along copies of your prescriptions in case you lose your pills or run out. Don't forget an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription glasses. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name.

Healthy Travels to You

The following government websites offer up-to-date health-related travel advice.

• Australia: www.dfat.gov.au/travel
• Canada: www.hc-sc.gc.ca/index_e.html
• U.K.: www.dh.gov.uk/policyandguidance/healthadvicefortravellers/fs/en
• U.S.: www.cdc.gov/travel

Tips on Accommodations

Hotel options in Russia have come a long way from the days of the state agency Intourist's monopoly on serving foreigners, but the country still has far too few mid-range hotel rooms to satisfy demand. Luxury chains were quick to recognize this new market and opened several top-class hotels in the 1990s, some opting for renovating elegant old hotels while others started from scratch. The most active chains in the luxury market are Marriott, InterContinental, Radisson, Sheraton, and Renaissance (now part of the Marriott chain). Holiday Inn (now part of the InterContinental hotel group) and Best Western have also entered the scene with somewhat cheaper offerings.

Even the highest-end locations sometimes offer deep discounts through online or traditional travel agencies or their own websites, up to 60% off the official or "rack" rate. It definitely pays to shop around. Most package tours rely on well-established Soviet-era hotels, usually enormous, architecturally bleak buildings offering the key services tourists need but with limited enthusiasm. The good news is that several of these hotels are renovating one floor at a time, and the increased price for the new rooms is usually well worth the fresh plumbing and improved service.

Hostels and traditional bed-and-breakfasts are rare though growing. Several companies rent out furnished apartments at rates much lower than the hotel rates. Quality varies widely, with some offering warm and helpful English-speaking hosts, others offering daily maid service and hotel-style assistance, and still others offering nothing but a key. Get the opinions of previous guests through websites such as www.virtualtourist.com before booking.

Russian hotels tend to be emptier in winter and busier in summer. Rates usually reflect this. Be aware of any big festivals or holiday events that might fill up hotels.

Neither Moscow nor St. Petersburg offers an official reservations service, and your chances of just showing up and getting a room are slim, even in hostels. You are strongly recommended to reserve in advance by phone or online; the cost is usually lower that way as well. Another advantage of reserving ahead is that most hotels will arrange for your visa, and register it once you arrive.

Hotels often have "floor monitors" employed round-the-clock who in the Soviet era often acted as KGB informers; now they're basically nosy chambermaids and sometimes they'll make guests tea.

Russia's star-rating system is only gradually adjusting to the international standard and is an unreliable source of judging quality.

Bed & Breakfasts, Homestays & Apartment Rental

Opting for less conventional accommodations can inject your trip with individuality and flexibility -- or it could tangle you in scams and unfulfilled promises. If you choose wisely, these three options can offer comfort, charm, and a convenient location at a reasonable price. Be aware that they lack many of the security features and financial guarantees of big hotels, and that rates and quality vary widely.

Just because a Russian hotel calls itself a "bed-and-breakfast" doesn't mean it will look anything like what you'd expect. Russian tourism gurus have taken the term to mean just about anything: an upscale urban hotel, a room in a student dormitory, a spotless apartment serviced by a real estate agency, or a cramped room in a family's apartment vacated just for the duration of your stay. There is no single body regulating who or what can call itself a B&B. The website www.bnb.ru, for example, is a portal for Russian accommodations of any category, from high-end Marriott hotels to long-term real estate deals. The main thing to keep in mind is that in Moscow, bed-and-breakfasts are urban experiences, not village cottages with fruit fresh from the orchard. Russian B&Bs usually occupy a single apartment or a floor of an apartment building. Some were once communal apartments, with entire families sharing single rooms and the whole floor sharing a single bathroom and kitchen, but today they are entirely renovated and quite comfortable.

Renting a private apartment for your stay is also popular, opening up more options in price and location than the hotel industry can. This is especially convenient during high seasons when hotels fill up fast. The safest bet is to use a real estate agency that services the apartment and is available for assistance at all hours in case of emergency. Many individual apartment owners also advertise rentals online or hover around international airports and train stations, but most of these are risky propositions.

If you're seeking a closer look at day-to-day Russian existence, or want to learn or practice Russian, a homestay can be a good option. The ideal homestay is an apartment with a family history and a family member eager to tell you about it, as opposed to someone merely renting out a room for extra cash. Your room will probably be packed with the family's stuff, a library's worth of books, and a few generations' worth of knickknacks. Your host will clear out a shelf in the overstuffed closet for your belongings, but little more. The best way to determine what you're getting into is to call your hosts before you reserve, or at least before you pay. (This is also a good way to check how well they speak English.)

Note: With any of the above options, be sure to find out before you reserve whether they can arrange your visa invitation. If not, you'll need to find a reputable travel agency to take care of that for you, which could cost up to 5,000 rubles more and takes at least 2 weeks.

• Host Families Association (www.hofa.ru): This service arranges homestays in both Moscow and St. Petersburg, with either Russian or English-speaking hosts. Rates start at 625 rubles per night.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

In line with its reputation as a country of extremes, Russia offers some of the best and worst that nature has to offer. Vast tracts of untouched Siberian forest and wildlife, and pollution-choked cities with little regard for recycling or emissions limits. Its attitude toward transport is similarly polar: Its trains and trolleybuses carry millions daily and have offered efficient, carbon-free travel for a century, and most Russians do not own cars. But those that do generally own the dirtiest kind: fuel-thirsty SUVs and Hummers, or Soviet-era models built when emissions were of no concern. One positive development is that the collapse in Russia's industry in the 1990s means office buildings and apartment towers took over factory grounds that used to cough pollution into downtown Moscow.

Navigating Moscow with the environment in mind is challenging but possible. Nearly every site listed in this guide can be reached by public transport. Bikes are available for rent in both cities.

Try www.veloprokat.ru. (in Russian only; 6 Shestaya Radialnaya Ulitsa; tel. 926/284-9232; metro: Tsaritsino). It's in a garage. Bikes cost 800 rubles a day. They'll also deliver your bike to you for another 600 rubles.

None of the car rental agencies in Moscow currently offer hybrids.

Few hotels or restaurants pay much heed to environmental concerns. To be more certain about the provenance and contents of your food, try the open-air markets. (Izmailovsky Market in Moscow is a good option). The older women camped out on the edge of the markets are often selling goods from their own gardens.

Though caviar is a centerpiece of Russian cuisine, the Caspian Sea sturgeon that produce them are desperately endangered. If you are keen for a taste, favor the red caviar, or salmon roe, on many restaurant menus.

Recycling has yet to catch on, as the excessive packaging we know in the West came only recently to Russia. An exception are Soviet-era machines that allow you to exchange empty aluminum cans for cash, though they are often out of order. Recycling bins around Moscow are marked with images of paper, glass, or plastic but are often filled with other debris.

The best way to stay "green" in both cities is to visit their extensive parks. Losiny Ostrov in Moscow was a former imperial hunting grounds and is the size of a city unto itself. It is believed to still host elk, wild boar, and beavers, and is an excellent place to get lost in the "wilderness" on a bike or cross-country skis.

The Typhoon Experimental Meteorology Research Institute sets ecological standards for the country (www.typhoon.obninsk.ru/english/main.htm).

General Resources for Green Travel

In addition to the resources for Moscow listed above, the following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel. For a list of even more sustainable resources, as well as tips and explanations on how to travel greener, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

• Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

Staying Connected

Cellphones

The three letters that define much of the world's wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. In the U.S., T-Mobile, AT&T Wireless, and Cingular use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM, and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. GSM phones function with a removable plastic SIM card, encoded with your phone number and account information. If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capable multiband phone such as many Sony Ericsson, Motorola, or Samsung models, you can make and receive calls across civilized areas around much of the globe. Just call your wireless operator and ask for "international roaming" to be activated on your account. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high -- usually $1 to $1.50 in Western Europe and up to $5 in places like Russia and Indonesia.

For many, renting a phone is a good idea. While you can rent a phone from any number of overseas sites, including kiosks at airports and at car-rental agencies, I suggest renting the phone before you leave home. North Americans can rent one before leaving home from InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626; www.intouchglobal.com) or RoadPost (tel. 888/290-1606 or 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). InTouch will also, for free, advise you on whether your existing phone will work overseas; simply call tel. 703/222-7161 between 9am and 4pm EST, or go to www.intouchglobal.com/travel.htm.

Russia's major cellphone companies (both in Moscow) are MTS (tel. 495/766-0177; www.mts.ru) and Bee-Line (tel. 495/974-8888; www.beeline.ru).

For trips of more than a few weeks spent in one country, buying a phone becomes economically attractive, as Russia and many other countries have cheap, no-questions-asked prepaid phone systems. Once you arrive at your destination, stop by a local cellphone shop and get the cheapest package; you'll probably pay less than $100 (£50) for a phone and a starter calling card. Local calls may be as low as 10¢ (5p) per minute, and with some Russian providers incoming calls are free.

Internet & E-Mail

Travelers have any number of ways to check e-mail and access the Internet on the road. Of course, using your own laptop, PDA (personal digital assistant), or electronic organizer with a modem gives you the most flexibility. If you don't have a computer, you can still access your e-mail and your office computer from cybercafes.

Without Your Own Computer -- In Moscow, cybercafes are concentrated around the tourist attractions such as the Kremlin and Nevsky Prospekt. Russian public libraries often offer Internet access free or for a small charge. Avoid hotel business centers unless you're willing to pay exorbitant rates. For a listing of cybercafes around the world, see www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com.

More and more hotels, resorts, airports, cafes, and retailers are going Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity), becoming "hotspots" that offer free high-speed Wi-Fi access or charge a small fee for usage. Most laptops sold today have built-in wireless capability. To find public Wi-Fi hotspots at your destination, go to www.jiwire.com; its Hotspot Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hotspots. The site www.waytorussia.net/Practicalities/Business/Internet.html lists spots in Moscow with Wi-Fi access.

For dial-up access, most business-class hotels throughout the world offer dataports for laptop modems, and a few thousand hotels in Europe now offer free high-speed Internet access.

Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Electric current in Russia is 220 volts (as opposed to 110 volts in the U.S.), and older hotels will require a five-pronged Russian phone adapter, available in Russian hardware stores or from hotel staff. Newer hotels will have standard phone jacks.

Getting Around

By Public Transportation

The Moscow Metro is an attraction unto itself, and well worth a visit just to view a few stations even if you have other transport. It's generally clean and efficient, with trains running every 90 seconds or so during the day. Station entrances are marked with a letter M. The Circle Line runs around the center, with nearly a dozen radial lines crossing it. Color-coded maps are posted at every station entrance and in every train car, and most are now printed in English as well as Russian. The signs in the stations directing you to platforms are in Russian, however, so it helps to know what the name of your station looks like printed in the Cyrillic alphabet. The system is slowly expanding but has not kept up with population growth. Trains are nearly always crowded, and stops are too few and far between. Opening and closing times vary from station to station but are roughly 5:30am to 1am.

Paper tickets with a magnetic strip are sold in each station, for one trip (22 rubles), two trips (44 rubles), five trips (105 rubles), or 10 trips (200 rubles). No senior or student discounts are available for foreigners. You scan the ticket across the sensor on the machine's front and walk after the light changes from red to green.

Trams are second-best to the metro if there's a tram route near your hotel or destination. The stops are on the sidewalk, even where the tram tracks are in the middle of the street. Three of the best lines (A, 3, and 39) run along the picturesque Boulevard Ring before crossing the Moscow River, offering a stunning view of the Kremlin and winding toward Moscow State University and Danilovsky Monastery, among other sights. Trolley buses, attached to electrical lines overhead, are a good option for travel around the Garden Ring Road or along Novy Arbat Street. Rush hour is crowded and the timing between trolley buses is unpredictable. Buses are the least convenient and most overcrowded form of public transport.

Tickets for trams, trolley buses, and buses cost 20 rubles if bought from street ticket booths and 25 rubles if purchased from the driver. You validate your ticket while entering the bus at the machine and walk through a turnstile when you see the green light. Maps are posted inside the vehicles, and routes are often listed at the stops, but in Russian only. Bus stops are marked by signs with the letter A, trolley stops with the letter T, and tram stops with the letters TP. Some stops serve all three. Waiting time can be from 5 to 40 minutes, depending on the hour and the traffic. The three forms of transportation run from 6am to midnight.

A new monorail system serves northern Moscow, between metro station Timiryazevskaya and Sergei Eisenstein Street. It serves the All-Russian Exhibition Center and the Ostankino Estate. It's well beyond the center of town but worth a cruise along the full route (allow 40 min.) if you are in the neighborhood, for a view of a corner of Moscow few visitors reach. Prices are the same as on the metro.

Route taxis, or marshrutky, are minivans that take up to 10 people along several routes that bigger buses don't serve. Fares vary but are generally not more than a couple of dollars (£1). The destinations are marked on the front of the van in Russian only. To get off, yell "Stop!" to the driver. The minivans are more convenient than buses, trams, or trolleys, but the drivers are often reckless and there are no seat belts.

The World Underground

The perekhod, or underground walkway, is one of those things that leaves you thinking: "Only in Russia. . . ." Soviet city planners built the walkways to allow passage across the extrawide boulevards they so favored, without disrupting aboveground traffic. Post-communism, the perekhods turned into thriving commercial centers lined with kiosks, shops, buskers, pharmacies, and cafes. They also provide shelter on blustery days or during rainstorms, and are often used as wintertime meeting places ("Meet me under Pushkin Square at 8pm"). They're invariably crowded but are often useful: for getting rubles at a currency exchange booth, for buying a cool drink or quick snack, or for finding an emergency umbrella (or shampoo, or batteries, or aspirin, or a DVD, or a bunch of wildflowers, or a fur hat . . . ). As a pedestrian, you're bound to encounter plenty of them in Moscow and St. Petersburg. When trying to cross major avenues, you may have to walk some distance to find the next perekhod, but making the extra journey is much wiser than trying to jaywalk across an eight-lane road clogged with fearless Russian drivers. The busiest perekhods are at central intersections or along major thoroughfares such as Moscow's Tverskaya Street and St. Petersburg's Nevsky Prospekt. Many also serve as auxiliary entrances to metro stations, though the thicket of kiosks sometimes makes it hard to find the metro doors. There's nothing sinister about this underground world during the day, but after the shops shut down at night, some perekhods attract drug dealers and drunken brawls. Avoid them after dark if you're alone.

City Layout

At Moscow's heart and nearly its geographical center lies the Kremlin, from which the rest of the city has expanded in roughly concentric circles: the Boulevard Ring, the Garden Ring, and the Third Ring. The last circle, the Moscow Ring Road, is the bypass around the city limits. The expansion continues apace and Moscow is now an unwieldy megalopolis of 12 million people encompassing 1,000 sq. km (386 sq. miles) -- nearly 10 times bigger than Paris or Manhattan.

The Moscow and Yauza rivers curve through the city, delineating neighborhoods. Visitors are often struck by Moscow's broad boulevards and vast squares, as well as the city's large swaths of green space (which turn to white space during the winter). Yet housing remains largely concentrated in cramped apartment blocks.

All major airports are well out of town . Train stations are scattered around a circle that generally corresponds to the Garden Ring Road and the metro system's Ring Line. Trains from the west arrive at Kievsky Station or Belorussky Station on the northwest side of town, and trains from the north arrive at Leningradsky Station or Rizhky Station on the northeast side.

Map Confusion

Beware of maps and guidebooks printed before the mid-1990s, which may include the Soviet-era names of many streets and metro stations instead of the new ones.

Address Advice

Finding addresses in Russia can be challenging, especially for buildings tucked in a courtyard or down a footpath. Russians usually list the house number after the street name. The number may include dashes or slashes or have an addendum like "building 2" or "wing 3." Big apartment buildings rarely have one central entrance; instead, apartments are reached by separate entrances called podyezdy, making it crucial to know which entrance you need.

Don't be alarmed if you see a slash in your address, such as 5/2. Pay attention to the number before the slash, which corresponds to the street number. The number after the slash usually refers to an annex, or wing. So for example, 5/2 Tverskaya Ulitsa will be on the odd-numbered side of the street, somewhere between No. 3 and No. 7. It may be adjacent to No. 5, or tucked into a courtyard behind No. 5. (Successive waves of reconstruction may mean that there's no 5/1 -- but don't let that worry you!)

For example, to find Kutuzovsky Prospekt 21/4, building 3, entrance 1, apartment 16: Locate no. 21/4 between nos. 19 and 23 (ignore the "/4"), walk through the parking lot, and search for building no. 3. Then find entrance no. 1 and check the list in the elevator to locate apartment no. 16's floor.

Calendar of Events

All dates below are official holidays unless noted. December 25 is not a holiday in Russia.

January 1-2: New Year's Day. This is the major holiday of the Russian year, a family event centered around a fir tree, a huge feast, and gift-giving traditions transferred by Soviet leaders from Christmas to the more secular New Year's Day. Even the smallest children stay up to ring in midnight. Both January 1 and 2 are holidays.

Presents under a fir tree, a copious family feast, and a big man with a long white beard -- for a Russian, these traditions conjure up not Christmas, but New Year's Eve. The atheist Soviet government wiped religious holidays off the official calendar, but they couldn't suffocate the midwinter holiday spirit. Stalin, recognizing the people's unwillingness to abandon Christmas traditions, encouraged their shift to the more secular New Year's holiday. Even today, a decade and a half after the collapse of Soviet Communism, New Year's remains the primary event on the Russian calendar. Russian Orthodox Christmas -- celebrated on January 7, according to the Julian calendar in use before the revolution -- has reassumed some of its former significance, but it's seen as a day for attending Mass and singing hymns instead of gift-giving and family celebration. Those rituals are reserved for December 31, when even the smallest children stay up to ring in the New Year.

Some restaurants and clubs are tapping into Western New Year's rituals with expensive all-night parties drenched in champagne, but the majority of Russians consider it an at-home, family event. The appetizers emerge in early evening, when relatives squeeze around the over-burdened table. For the next several hours, people eat, drink, tell stories, and dance to favorite songs. Father Frost, or Dyed Moroz, delivers gifts sometime around midnight. Because most Russians live in apartment buildings, the whole coming-down-the-chimney tradition plays no role here, and family members pull presents from cupboards or from under beds. In fairy tales, Dyed Moroz is assisted by a Snow Maiden, Snegurochka, and some families dress up as the two characters.

Menu items reflect the end of the pre-Christmas fast called for by Orthodox custom, 40 days of refraining from meat and dairy products: beef and pork roasts dripping with fatty sauces, cured meats, veal in aspic, salads packed with diced ham and egg and heaped with mayonnaise, buttery pancakes heaped with caviar. . . . To drink, men stick to vodka; women either join in or sip nastoika, a homemade liqueur made of vodka brewed with berries, herbs, or roots. Pre-revolutionary aristocrats introduced fine French champagne to their Christmas feasts; the Soviets spread the tradition to the masses with the production of cheap sparkling wine that is still a staple of the New Year's table. The most popular brand is Sovietskoye (all categories but the brut are quite sweet).

The New Year's celebrations peak with a midnight fireworks display over Red Square, broadcast nationwide. The crowds of mostly young revelers in the square are so dense that few of them notice the freezing temperatures. Back at home, many families celebrate well into the night, or go outside to set off their own small firecrackers. The first day of the year is a day of rest and lots of leftovers.

If you visit Moscow over New Year's, be sure to check in advance online or through your travel agent for special holiday events at your hotel. If you can't get invited to a Russian home, try one of the elaborate parties at traditional Russian restaurants such as One Red Square, Baltschug Kempinski hotel, or Le National hotel (all have great views of the Moscow fireworks). Meal service starts at 10pm or later. Seats are expensive and must be booked well in advance. For English-language listings on New Year's parties, see The Moscow Times newspaper (www.themoscowtimes.com). And practice saying "S Novym Godom!" ("Happy New Year!").

January 7: Russian Orthodox Christmas. Ignored in Soviet times, this is now a primary religious holiday, with many people attending midnight Mass and more festive meals.

January 14: "Old" New Year. Not an official holiday, but celebrated nonetheless. It's left over from the pre-revolutionary days when Russia followed the Julian calendar, which was about 2 weeks behind the one used by the Western world.

February 23: Defenders of the Motherland Day (Armed Forces Day). With the military draft still mandatory, many Russians see this as a general "Men's Day," involving much vodka and stories of hazing and corrupt commanding officers.

February/March: Maslenitsa, or Butter Week. Not an official holiday. The week before Orthodox Lent is traditionally a time to eat lots of buttery bliny (crepelike pancakes) and other rich foods that believers will forego for the next 40 days. Each day of the week has a significance, such as Cleansing Thursday when Russians purge overstuffed closets, and Forgiveness Sunday when people forgive wrongs committed over the past year. The origins of the holiday are pagan, and many towns stage raucous Maslenitsa festivals. It's not Carnival or Mardi Gras, but it's lively.

Butter Week began as a pagan festival celebrating the end of winter. The arrival of the Orthodox calendar didn't extinguish this week of revelry, but turned it into a pre-Lenten party, a sort of Russian version of Carnival or Mardi Gras. The name comes from the butter used for pancakes eaten throughout the week -- pancakes whose golden warmth and roundness are meant to represent the sun and impending springtime. The butter also refers to the upcoming Lent, when Orthodox believers are expected to refrain from dairy products and other luxuries. To store up for this austere period, Russians indulge greedily in rich foods during Maslenitsa. Pancakes are stuffed with soft farmers' cheese, ham, or caviar. Eggy desserts grace the table, not to be seen again until Easter.

Maslenitsa was a major event in Moscow before the revolution, and after a Soviet-era lull, festivities are again staged at parks such as Kolomenskoye in Moscow and the Summer Gardens in St. Petersburg, as well as in villages and country estates on the cities' outskirts. A key part of the ritual is the burning of one or several straw scarecrows representing winter. They're paraded around a snow-covered field and then set alight as onlookers cheer, chant, and dance. At Kolomenskoye, performers in embroidered costumes revive traditional songs and children's games, and build ice forts for mass snowball fights. Everyone is treated to honey from nearby hives, and tea and barrels of mead -- a warm, fermented honey drink -- are prepared just for the occasion.

Dates of Butter Week vary from year to year, since it's linked to Orthodox Easter, but it usually falls between late February and late March. The original rituals have been adapted to modern times, with the big parties usually held on Saturday and Sunday to accommodate work schedules. Each day of the week has a significance. Thursday, for example, is Cleansing Day, when Russians are expected to clean out their cupboards and lives for the coming spring. Sunday is Forgiveness Day, and even in Soviet times it was common for long-feuding siblings to phone each other on that day to mend their differences. According to some traditions, Monday morning is teeth-cleaning day, when men are expected to drink large amounts of vodka to cleanse the remnants of fatty foods from their teeth.

If you're visiting Russia during this season, tracking down a Maslenitsa party is a great way to boost your mood and distract you from the cold slushiness all around. Some Russian travel agencies arrange special Maslenitsa tours. Check with your hotel concierge for a calendar of Moscow Maslenitsa events.

March 8: International Women's Day. Begun by U.S. feminists in the 1920s, the holiday became a Soviet banner for gender equality. Today's Russian women lament that men get pampered 364 days a year and women get appreciated only on Vosmovo Marta (Mar 8). It's a sacred holiday and official day off work for everyone nonetheless, and every Russian male is expected to present flowers or chocolates to his wife, mother, daughters, and female colleagues.

April/May: Orthodox Easter. The date varies, but it's usually 1 or 2 weeks after Catholic/Protestant Easter. The following Monday is a state holiday, though Good Friday is not. The day has taken on greater significance since the collapse of Soviet atheism, and on Easter morning, every Orthodox church has lines of people waiting to have their traditional Easter cakes blessed. The holiday feast is the richest on the Russian calendar, with eggs a major theme.

April/May: Easter Arts Festival. A weeklong event showcasing St. Petersburg's Mariinsky Company orchestra in Moscow and small choral ensembles performing in the city's cathedrals following Orthodox Easter. Bell ringing is a major part of the event.

May 1-2: Labor Day/Spring Festival. May Day parades under red Communist banners still wend through Moscow's streets, though they're no longer allowed on Red Square, site of the tremendous Soviet-era demonstrations of Kremlin-enforced proletarian solidarity.

May 9: Victory Day. The Soviet Union lost more people than any other nation in World War II, and even 6 decades later the day commemorating Hitler's defeat is a major Russian holiday. Every Russian has a relative or friend who served in what they call the Great Patriotic War, and the sight of elderly veterans pinning on rusting medals for a day is a poignant reminder of one of the most impressive feats of the Soviet era.

June 12: Russian Independence Day. On this day in 1990, the Russian Federation declared itself independent from the Soviet Union, a symbolic move inspired by nationalist movements in the Baltics and eastern Europe. Few Russians today know what the holiday commemorates.

November 7: Day of Reconciliation and Accord. For 70 years this was called Revolution Day, marking the 1917 events that brought the Soviets to power. The post-Soviet government didn't have the heart to take away the holiday, so they renamed it. A dwindling number of Communist die-hards still gather around Red Square, visiting Lenin's tomb and lamenting the demise of his brainchild.

December 12: Constitution Day. Marks the 1993 referendum that approved Russia's first post-Soviet constitution.

Last week in December: White Days Festival (St. Petersburg). The city boosters' efforts to lure tourists during the snowy months, this festival includes winter carnivals in the city parks and a dense program of dance, opera, and orchestral performances. See www.whitedays.com for more information.

Staying Safe

What About Terrorism?

This is a sadly pertinent question for travel almost anywhere in this post-9/11 world. Russia's experiences with terrorism date back to the 19th century, when revolutionary bombers assassinated Czar Alexander II. The source of more recent terrorist attacks has been the war in Chechnya, where a conflict between Russian troops and Chechen guerrillas has simmered for more than a decade. Two major terrorist attacks outside Chechnya in recent years -- the Moscow theater siege in 2002 and the Beslan school massacre in 2004 -- terrified the world and hardened Russian opposition to the Chechen cause. With no end to the conflict in sight, the Chechen problem will continue to cast a shadow over Russia's post-Soviet progress.

The provinces in the Northern Caucasus Mountains neighboring Chechnya are at the most risk of spillover violence that could affect tourists. Moscow, 1,000km (621 miles) to the north, is sheltered from everyday Chechnya-related violence, but as the seat of Russia's government, it is at risk of rare attacks like the theater siege. Like terrorist acts in other European cities, these are nearly impossible to predict and avoid. Most experts judge the terrorism risk in Moscow as no higher than in other major capitals, though if an attack occurs, Russian security services are likely to handle it more ruthlessly than their European counterparts would.

See the U.S. State Department's Advisory website (www.travel.state.gov) for recent warnings, though be aware that they tend to be more alarmist than the travel advisories posted by other governments. If you notice a suspicious abandoned bag on the metro or in a public place, report it to the nearest metro official or police officer.

Staying Safe

The notorious Russian "mafia" made for good movie villains in the 1990s, but its reputation is rather exaggerated and it is not a serious threat to foreign visitors. The victims of most organized crime are Russian millionaires and powerful tycoons who have much more to lose than the average American tourist. Pickpockets and over-friendly drunks are the main annoyances to today's traveler; you can avoid both by being alert, traveling in groups, and sticking to well-lit areas after dark. Prostitution and drug use are illegal but widespread, and not worth a run-in with the Russian police. Drunk-driving laws are strict, forbidding drivers from having even one drink, but traffic police (unfortunately) readily accept payoffs for overlooking minor infractions.

Dealing With Discrimination

The Soviet Union was one of the most ethnically diverse places on the planet, and Russia is still home to hundreds of nationalities. Few Russians can claim to be 100% Slavic, after centuries of mingling with people of Turkic, Nordic, and Mongol blood. However, the two recent wars in Chechnya have fueled a blanket suspicion of people from the Caucasus region, and there have been sporadic incidents of skinhead violence against ethnic minorities in recent years, especially immediately following a terrorist attack. Foreigners with "southern" features -- dark eyes and hair and olive skin -- very occasionally suffer reluctant service and suspicious looks, unless it's clear that you're a tourist and not a terrorist. Africans from fellow socialist states were welcomed in the Soviet era, but periodic waves of nationalist sentiment in the post-Soviet era have resulted in backlashes against anyone with black skin, usually in the bleak suburbs where jobless young white men target their even poorer African and Asian neighbors. The majority of Russians do not share this hostility and tourists only very rarely suffer from it, especially those traveling in groups.

Most Russians are eager to criticize the U.S. government for something, but the comments are purely political -- a way of making conversation and demonstrating their knowledge of world events, as opposed to a personal attack. Most interlocutors are happy to talk to a foreigner about current events, even if your views differ, and you'll find pro-Western sentiment as common as anti-Western sentiment.

Money

Though capitalism has brought Russia more in line with the economies of the West, money matters continue to vex visitors. Red caviar, symphony tickets, and haircuts can barely dent your wallet; rubbery pizza and roach-ridden hotels can drain it. Russia can be quite cheap, though visitors on escorted tours may not notice, as accommodations are often overpriced and tour operators charge a premium. Cash is by far the most popular form of payment among Russians, but credit cards are increasingly accepted. ATMs are widely available in Moscow and are generally reliable.

Frommer's lists prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

Currency

Russia's ruble is still making the transition to becoming a truly "hard" currency, which means very few banks abroad will sell you rubles (in cash or traveler's checks) before you leave home or buy them back from you when you return. The U.S. dollar was the de facto second currency in the 1990s as the ruble lost all credibility among Russians. In recent years the ruble has remained quite stable, even stronger than the dollar, and inflation has calmed down considerably, though Russians still prefer to keep their savings in dollars or euros. If you're not queasy about carrying cash from home, change it at the currency exchange booths found at all airports, hotels, and most street corners. Exchange booths in town offer more competitive rates than do hotels and airports and do not charge commissions, though most buy only U.S. dollars and euros. Be sure to have crisp, new bills, as exchange booths often refuse well-worn notes or those printed pre-1995. Note that prices listed on menus and in shops are often in dollars or euros, though only rubles are accepted as payment. This is a remnant of the 1990s, when the ruble's value plunged daily.

ATMs

The easiest way to get cash in Moscow is from an ATM. The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to see which network you're on. Most Russian ATMs accept both. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) before you leave home, and be sure to find out your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Also keep in mind that many banks impose a fee every time a card is used at a different bank's ATM; that fee can be higher for international transactions than for domestic ones. On top of this, the Russian bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own small fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank. To limit these charges, take out as much money as you're comfortable with at once.

You can also get cash advances on your credit card at an ATM. Credit card companies try to protect themselves from theft by limiting the funds you can withdraw outside your home country, so call your credit card company before you leave home. And keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time.

Traveler's Checks

Few places in Russia accept traveler's checks outside major hotels and restaurants, and those that do usually accept only American Express. If you have checks from elsewhere, call your hotel in advance to see if they're accepted. Currency exchange booths in the major hotels generally accept traveler's checks, but most other exchange booths do not.

Traveler's checks are something of an anachronism from the days before the ATM made cash accessible at any time. Traveler's checks used to be the only sound alternative to traveling with dangerously large amounts of cash. They were as reliable as currency but, unlike cash, could be replaced if lost or stolen. These days, traveler's checks are less necessary because most cities have 24-hour ATMs that allow you to withdraw small amounts of cash as needed. However, keep in mind that you will likely be charged an ATM withdrawal fee if the bank is not your own.

You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. They are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233, or tel. 800/221-7282 for cardholders -- this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322) -- AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee (for checks up to $1,500) at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378; and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

Be sure to keep a record of the traveler's checks' serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

American Express, Thomas Cook, Visa, and MasterCard offer foreign currency traveler's checks, useful if you're traveling to one country or to the Euro zone; they're accepted at locations where dollar checks may not be.

Another option is the new prepaid traveler's check cards, reloadable cards that work much like debit cards but aren't linked to your checking account. The American Express Travelers Cheque Card, for example, requires a minimum deposit, sets a maximum balance, and has a one-time issuance fee of $15. You can withdraw money from an ATM (for a fee of $2.50 per transaction, not including bank fees), and the funds can be purchased in dollars, euros, or pounds. If you lose the card, your available funds will be refunded within 24 hours.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are welcome in nearly all Russian hotels and many restaurants, but many museums and train stations take only cash. Cards most commonly accepted in Russia are American Express, Visa, MasterCard, and Eurocard. Places that take Diners Club are rare, and those that take Discover are nearly nonexistent.

Credit cards are a safe way to carry money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can also withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, provided you know your PIN. If you've forgotten yours, or didn't even know you had one, call the number on the back of your credit card and ask the bank to send it to you. It usually takes 5 to 7 business days, though some banks will provide the number over the phone if you tell them your mother's maiden name or some other personal information. Keep in mind that when you use your credit card abroad, most banks assess a 2% fee above the 1% fee charged by Visa, MasterCard, or American Express for currency conversion on credit charges. But credit cards still may be the smart way to go when you factor in exorbitant ATM fees and higher traveler's check exchange rates (and service fees).

Tips for Senior Travelers

Russians have great respect for their elders, but the country's modern history has been brutal to them, wiping out their savings, shriveling the value of their pensions, and leaving them without cheap healthcare just when they need it most. Russians over 60 qualify for discounts everywhere, including reduced admission on public transport and to many museums and other attractions. However, many tourist sites offer this discount only to Russians, and charge all foreigners a separate, inflated price. Also note that Russian sightseeing requires a lot of walking and ubiquitous stairs.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (tel. 800/454-5768; www.elderhostel.org) arranges worldwide study programs for those age 55 and over. ElderTreks (tel. 800/741-7956 or 416/558-5000 outside North America; www.eldertreks.com) offers small-group tours to off-the-beaten-path or adventure-travel locations, restricted to travelers 50 and older.

Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond.com) and the bestselling paperback Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can't Get Unless You're Over 50, 2007-2008, 16th Edition (McGraw-Hill), by Joann Rattner Heilman.

When to Go

Frost-tinged, wind-whipped, ice-glazed. Snow blankets much of Russia for much of the year, and Moscow and St. Petersburg usually see flurries in May and September. Warming global temperatures have made for some unusually mild Januarys in recent years, but it's still a northern nation. Understandably, September through May prices are lower and tourist sites less crowded. Hotel and airline rates spike around the New Year's holiday, the main event in the Russian calendar.

Most visitors favor summer, in both Moscow and subarctic St. Petersburg, with sunsets that linger until sunrise, balmy temperatures, and all-night activity that makes you forget it's 3am and you haven't slept. Russians shed layers, sunbathe on park benches, and let loose after their long hibernation. Festivals and open-air concerts make up for the summer departure of the major opera and dance companies such as the Bolshoi and Mariinsky (formerly the Kirov) theaters. Summer weather in both cities can be unpredictable, though, with spells of heavy heat (and rare air-conditioning) or drizzly cold. Bring layers and an umbrella no matter when you go.

Autumn is a few idyllic weeks in late September and early October when the poplars and oaks shed their leaves and the afternoon sun warms you enough to help you through the cooling nights. Spring, a few weeks in April, is slushy and succinct in Moscow.

If a winter wonderland is your fantasy, Russia in December won't disappoint you. The northern sun shines softly low on the horizon, and snow masks garbage-strewn courtyards and muffles the sound of traffic. Cross-country skiing fans can wind through forests within Moscow city limits. Skaters have frozen ponds galore for ice season fun. The downside, other than a suitcase weighted with sweaters, is that many country palaces and other outdoor sites close for the winter.

Businesses and government agencies slow down considerably because of vacations the first 2 weeks of January, the first 2 weeks of May, and much of August. These are calmer times to visit Russia but can prove a nightmare if you have visa problems or other administrative needs. When a public holiday falls on a weekend, the nearest weekday is given off in compensation.

Getting There

By Plane

Russia's chief international carrier remains Aeroflot, the former Soviet behemoth. Delta is the only major U.S. airline that flies into Russia, though all major European carriers serve Moscow. You can often find good deals through British Airways, Air France, and KLM. For a cheaper option, try the Eastern European airlines, such as Poland's LOT or Hungary's Malév, or Asian carriers such as Air India that use Moscow as a fueling stop.

For internal flights in Russia, such as between Moscow and St. Petersburg, the luggage weight limit is 20 kilograms (44 lb.); sometimes carry-ons are weighed as well. Above that weight, you'll have to pay a fee, usually at a separate cash desk apart from the check-in counter.

The main port of entry for international flights is Sheremetevo-2 Airport (tel. 495/956-4666 or 495/578-9101; www.sheremetyevo-airport.ru), a dingy gray terminal 30km (19 miles) north of downtown that was built for the 1980 Olympics. The passport control lines are formidable, as the border officers inspect every passport and visa. Luggage carts are free, though they sometimes run short in number, so grab one as soon as you see the baggage carousel. Porters hawk their services for exorbitant rates. A currency exchange booth and ATM are available after you've cleared Customs; rates are better in town. An information desk with English-speaking personnel is in the main arrivals hall, along a row of car-rental desks and airline ticket offices. Package tours generally include transport to and from Russia's airports.

If you're on your own, your best bet is the Aeroexpress train to Savyolovsky Train Station, which runs once an hour and takes 40 minutes compared to the 1-to-2-hour car ride (tel. 800/700-3377; www.aeroexpress.ru). It costs 250 rubles for adults. Tickets are available in the airport after you emerge from Customs.

Be prepared for the odorous herd of taxi drivers in the arrivals hall. If you prefer taxis, better to reserve in advance. Moscow Taxi (www.moscow-taxi.com) and Taxi Blues (tel. 495/925-5115; www.taxi-blues.ru) offer good English-speaking services. Women travelers, try Pink Taxi (tel. 495/662-0003; www.womantaxi.ru) with exclusively women drivers and passengers. If you arrive without a ride, push your way to the official taxi desk near the exit. Official cabs are either yellow or have TAXI written in big letters in English and Russian. Rates are determined by a zone map, and a ride to the city center runs about 1,500 rubles. The freelance cabbies will try to convince you that $100 (or even 100 euros) is your cheapest option.

There is no train service to downtown, but buses leave from the airport parking lot and stop at Rechnoi Vokzal metro station (bus no. 851) or Planernaya metro station (bus no. 517). The fare, about 20 rubles, must be paid in rubles to the driver. Allow yourself at least an hour to reach downtown in a taxi, and at least 90 minutes by bus or metro.

A few European airlines now arrive at the bright, renovated Domodedovo Airport (tel. 495/933-6666 or 495/720-6666; www.domodedovo.ru), 50km (31 miles) south of the center. Domodedovo has all the same services as Sheremetevo but in a friendlier setting, and has two major advantages: It runs a train direct to Paveletsky station, just south of the city center, and it has a clear, fair, and computerized taxi service greeting passengers as they exit. The taxis aren't cheap but make sense if you are in a small group. Taxis from Domodedovo to the center take about an hour (it could be more than 2 hr. in heavy traffic) and cost around 2,300 rubles. The train ride to Paveletsky is 40 minutes and costs 200 rubles (view the schedule at www.aeroexpress.ru). Two metro lines meet at Paveletsky station, where taxis are also available. Private buses run from Domodedovo to the nearest metro station, Domodedovskaya, every 15 minutes for just 80 rubles. Look for the buses labeled Scania. It takes about 30 minutes depending on traffic.

Flights from St. Petersburg usually arrive at Sheremetevo-1 (tel. 495/232-6565), adjacent to Sheremetevo-2 but smaller. Taxis from there cost slightly less than from the international terminal. Other domestic Russian flights come into Vnukovo (tel. 495/436-2813), 30km (19 miles) southwest of the city. Taxis to the center of the city cost about 1,500 rubles. Vnukovo also runs a train directly to Kievsky Station close to the city center that costs 100 rubles. The train runs every hour between 7am and 9pm; the trip takes about 40 minutes.

By Train

The St. Petersburg-Moscow train route is the country's best-maintained and most romantic. An overnight ride on a sleeper brings you into Leningradsky Station and costs 1,200 to 3,500 rubles, depending on the train's class and hour. The pricier rides come complete with slippers, in-cabin television, and a late-night meal. Two fast day trains, the Express and the Aurora, make the trip in about 5 hours, with a seat running 2,300 to 4,500 rubles. Leningradsky, like all of Moscow's train stations, is conveniently located on the Circle Line of the metro. Western European trains generally arrive in Belorussky Station, barely north of the city center and within walking distance of the hotels on busy Tverskaya Street. A second-class ticket in a sleeping car from Warsaw takes 24 hours and costs about $70; from farther west the time and cost rise accordingly. Most European trains travel through Ukraine or Belarus, both of which require a transit visa. Contact the Ukrainian or Belarusian embassy in your country for details, or pick a route through the Baltic states or Scandinavia. The train from Beijing takes 5 days and costs about $250. Note: Rail passes that serve the rest of Europe do not serve Russia.

By Car

For those rare arrivals by car, take the vehicle straight to your hotel and inquire about secure parking. Unfortunately, no current maps in English indicate one-way streets or other such crucial details for drivers. The Travellers Yellow Pages map in English, otherwise quite good, is available at www.infoservices.com and at major Moscow hotels. Do not underestimate Moscow traffic, which has mushroomed in the past decade and can leave visitors trapped in a labyrinth of jammed one-way streets, especially from 8 to 10am and 5 to 8pm. Watch out, too, for the traffic police, who, always eager for pocket money, can stop you just to make sure your documentation is in order. Garages are rare despite rising demand. Muscovites park on sidewalks and in doorways if they can't find free spaces, but because theft is common this is not advised. There are also an increasing number of guarded parking areas, usually just a strip of parking places commandeered by a private company with a fare collector hanging out on the corner. Rates are usually fixed regardless of how long you stay parked. Renting a car with a driver is a more reliable and often cheaper option than driving yourself.

By Bus

Several European tour companies offer bus trips to Moscow, usually departing from Germany. However, the journey is long (2 days from Berlin) and along poorly maintained highways, and the waits at the borders are significant. For any trip traveling through or originating in Ukraine or Belarus, you must get a transit visa from those countries. Buses arrive at Tsentralny Avtovokzal (Central Bus Terminal) at 2 Uralskaya Ulitsa (tel. 495/468-0400). The Shcholkovskaya metro station is adjacent. Taxis from the terminal take about 30 minutes to reach the center at a rate of about 450 rubles.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Soviet statutes barring homosexual acts were at last lifted in 1993, and Russia's gays and lesbians have been celebrating ever since. Still, Russia's conservative society remains suspicious of same-sex couples, and openly gay public figures remain rare, outside the performing arts. Russian women, regardless of sexual preference, often hold hands and embrace in public, but public intimacy between gay men can provoke taunts or worse. Gay-friendly venues, including clubs, restaurants, business groups, and public pickup spots, are numerous in Moscow.

The website www.gay.ru is a solid starting place for gay and lesbian visitors to Russia, with accommodations suggestions and extensive club listings. The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses and tour operators.

Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. Above and Beyond Tours (tel. 800/397-2681; www.abovebeyondtours.com) are gay Australia tour specialists. San Francisco-based Now, Voyager (tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com) offers worldwide trips and cruises, and Olivia (tel. 800/631-6277; www.olivia.com) offers lesbian cruises and resort vacations.

Gay.com Travel (tel. 800/929-2268 or 415/644-8044; www.gay.com/travel/outandabout/ or www.outandabout.com) is an excellent online successor to the popular Out & About print magazine. It provides regularly updated information about gay-owned, gay-oriented, and gay-friendly lodging, dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shopping establishments in every important destination worldwide. British travelers should click on the "Travel" link at www.uk.gay.com for advice and gay-friendly trip ideas.

The Canadian website GayTraveler (www.gaytraveler.ca) offers ideas and advice for gay travel all over the world.

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Spartacus International Gay Guide, 35th Edition (Bruno Gmünder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide); and the Damron guides (www.damron.com), with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians.

Escorted & Package Tours

Russia's tourism industry is only beginning to tap the travel possibilities across the world's largest country. No roads exist across much of the territory, and hotels and services in small towns are often little better than gulags. All this makes an escorted tour -- with a group leader, including airfare, hotels, meals, admission costs, and local transportation -- quite appealing. The chief benefit is that the tour company negotiates the hassle of getting a visa; it's also handy to have tour guides navigate museums and street signs labeled in Russian only. The main drawback of an escorted tour is its high cost.

Special-interest tours remain rare in Moscow, though some adventure and ecological tours take you to the wilds of the Russian Far East or the Trans-Siberian railway.

For general-interest tours to Russia's premier cities, Escorted Russian Tours (tel. 800/942-3301; www.escortedrussiantours.com) provides a range of offerings focusing on Moscow and St. Petersburg, as do the U.K.-based Russian Gateway (tel. 07050-803-160; www.russiangateway.co.uk) and the Russian-based www.tourstorussia.com.

One popular excursion is a cruise from St. Petersburg to Moscow. It takes your boat about 10 days to wind through rivers and canals, with stops at the island monastery at Valaam, the fairy tale-like wooden village of Kizhi, lakes Ladoga and Onega, and the Volga river towns of Yaroslavl and Kostroma. Russian Tours (www.rus-tours.com) and Russiana (www.russiana.co.uk) are two places to start.

For more information on Escorted General-Interest Tours, including questions to ask before booking your trip, see www.frommers.com/planning.

Package Tours

Package tours are simply a way to buy the airfare, accommodations, and other elements of your trip (such as car rentals, airport transfers, and sometimes even activities) at the same time and often at discounted prices -- kind of like one-stop shopping. Packages are sold in bulk to tour operators -- who resell them to the public at a cost that usually undercuts standard rates.

Two tour companies to try are Eastern Tours, run by Russian émigrés and focusing on reasonably priced tours to Moscow, St. Petersburg, and Kiev (tel. 800/339-6967; www.traveltorussia.com); and Cosmos Tours, which includes several Russian packages (tel. 800/276-1241; www.cosmos.com). Be sure to read reviews of their tours by former clients on www.frommers.com or other independent websites.

Many of the mainstream packagers haven't caught on to Russia yet, so the choices are more limited. Russia-based packages are cheaper but riskier than those based in your home country; be sure to get as much insurance and guaranties as you can. Places to check include Tour Vacations To Go (tel. 800/680-2858; www.tourvacationstogo.com) and Budget Travel (www.budgettravel.com). Russia-based agencies include Russia Info-Center (tel. 495/939-1605; www.russia-ic.com) and www.homestays.ru, which offers high-end hotels as well as homestays.

Before you invest in a package tour, get some answers. Ask about the accommodations choices and prices for each. Then look up the hotels' reviews in a Frommer's guide and check their rates online for your specific dates of travel. You'll also want to find out what type of room you get. If you need a certain type of room, ask for it; don't take whatever is thrown your way. Request a nonsmoking room, a quiet room, a room with a view, or whatever you fancy.

Finally, look for hidden expenses. Ask whether airport departure fees and taxes, for example, are included in the total cost.

Academic Trips & Language Classes

"Russia cannot be understood with the mind/Or by an ordinary yardstick/She has a special status/All you can do is believe in Russia." So goes an oft-quoted verse by 19th-century Romantic poet Fyodor Tyutchev that has stood as a challenge to foreign scholars of Russia and Russian ever since. What better way to prove him wrong and expand your understanding than to take a language tour in Russia? It is certain to be intense and productive, as English speakers and familiar lettering are scarcer here than in Western Europe. Tours linked to reputable Russian universities are the least risky and most streamlined. Study Russian (tel. 495/939-0980; www.studyrussian.com) offers language lessons in Moscow for all skill levels and can tailor them to your business specialty. Courses in Russian history or literature are also available. Visas and accommodations are arranged for you. The Center for Russian Language (tel. 495/939-1463; www.ruslanguage.ru) arranges courses and accommodations at a dormitory; conditions are basic but comfortable and immersion is guaranteed.