Until 2006 this artsy café that's atop the still-functioning Mayakovsky Theater was an exclusive club for actors and their friends, but now it's open to the general public as well. It's a favorite with journalists, musicians, and expats as well as actors, in part because the food is cheap and excellent: try the perfectly seasoned tomato seafood soup, which isn't a bad option for lunch. The decor is styled to look like an old Moscow apartment, with patterned wallpaper, old wooden tables and chairs, and a piano. Friday and Saturday nights at Café Mayak are legendary for their freewheeling or downright rowdy parties, when the expensive as well as cheap wine flows and guests of all different ages start to dance all over the café. Keep in mind that the air here gets a little thick, since most of the clientele are smokers.