At Varvary (Russian for "barbarians"), the celebrity chef Anatoly Komm gives the traditionally quite hearty Russian cuisine a very artistic and creative spin, playing with textures and ingredients in what he calls "gastronomic theater." That staple of the Russian diet, beet, cabbage, and potato borscht, is turned into a blended sauce to pour over a ball of sour cream with herbs, and served with the veal sweetbreads. If you are in the mood to splurge, try the nine-course tasting menu with wine pairing for  RUB12,000. All the ingredients are locally sourced and seasonal, so the menu is constantly changing. Tastings, held in evenings, require a reservation. The interior, designed by Philippe Starck, gets its drama from dark crystal chandeliers and a black, red, and white color scheme.