Active Pursuits in Mount Desert Island and Acadia National Park
Hiking is the quintessential Acadia experience, and it should be experienced by everyone at least once. The park has 120 miles of hiking trails in all, plus 57 miles of carriage roads, which are great for easier walking. Some traverse the sides or faces of low “mountains” (known as hills anywhere else), and almost all summits have superb views of the Atlantic. Many of these pathways were crafted by stonemasons or others with aesthetic intent, so the routes aren’t always the most direct—but they’re often incredibly scenic, taking advantage of natural fractures in the rocks, picturesque ledges, and sudden, sweeping vistas.
The Hulls Cove Visitor Center has a brief chart summarizing area hikes; combined with the park map, this is all you need to find one of the well-maintained, well-marked trails, and start exploring. Cobble together different loop hikes to make your trips more varied, and be sure to coordinate your hiking with the weather; if it’s damp or foggy, you’ll stay drier and warmer strolling the carriage roads. If it’s clear and dry, head for the highest peaks (Cadillac, The Bubbles) with the best views.
One of the best trails is the Dorr Mountain Ladder Trail, which departs from Route 3 near the Tarn, just south of the Sieur de Monts entrance to the Loop Road. This trail begins with a series of massive stone steps ascending along the base of a vast slab of granite and then passes through crevasses (not for the wide of girth) and up ladders affixed to the granite. The views east and south are superb.
An easy lowland hike is around Jordan Pond, with the northward leg along the pond’s east shore on a hiking trail and the return via carriage road. It’s mostly level, with the total loop measuring just more than 3 miles. At the north end of Jordan Pond, consider heading up the prominent, oddly symmetrical mounds called The Bubbles. These detours shouldn’t take much more than 20 minutes each; look for signs off the Jordan Pond Shore Trail.
On the western side of the island, an ascent of Acadia Mountain and return takes about 1.5 hours, but hikers should schedule in some time for lingering while they enjoy the view of Somes Sound and the smaller islands off Mount Desert’s southern shores. This 2.5-mile loop hike begins off Route 102 at a trailhead 3 miles south of Somesville. Head eastward through rolling mixed forest, then begin an ascent over ledgy terrain. Be sure to visit both the east and west peaks (the east peak has the better views), and look for hidden clearings in the summit forest that open up to unexpected vistas.
CANOEING
Mount Desert’s ponds offer scenic if limited canoeing; most have public boat access. Canoe rentals are available at the north end of Long Pond (the largest pond on the island, at 3 miles long) in Somesville from National Park Canoe & Kayak Rental (tel. 207/244-5854). The cost is about $40 for 3 hours, $35 if you go out for sunset, or $61 for the whole day.
GOLF
The Northeast Harbor Golf Club (tel. 207/276-5335) is an attractive choice for golfers. Greens fees range from $50 to $200 per person for 18 holes, depending on season and time of day; to find the course, drive all the way through the small downtown, then turn right on Manchester Drive, which takes you to the course. Alternately, a few miles north of town as you come south on Route 3/198, exit right onto Sargent Drive and continue 1/2 miles to the course. Note: Tee times for non-members are limited during the high summer season.
CARRIAGE RIDES
Several types of carriage rides are offered by the park concessionaire Wildwood Stables ( tel. 877/276-3622), about a half-mile south of the Jordan Pond House. The tours depart daily in season and take in sweeping ocean views from nearby Day Mountain or explores the network of Rockefeller bridges. There’s a special carriage designed for passengers with disabilities, and you can even charter your own carriage for a private group. Reservations are recommended; figure to pay $48 per adult, or $38 per child, for an hour-long tour, and $84 and $66, respectively, for a two-hour tour.
ROCK CLIMBING
Many of the ocean-side rock faces attract experienced rock climbers, as much for the beauty of the climbing areas as the challenge of the climbs and the high-grade quality of the rock. For novices or experienced climbers, Acadia Mountain Guides (tel. 207/288-8186) offers rock-climbing lessons and guide services, ranging from a half-day introduction to rock climbing to intensive workshops on self-rescue and instruction on how to lead climbs. The Bar Harbor branch (the other’s in Orono) is located at 228 Main Street.
SKIING
Cross-country skiers have a glorious mix of terrain to choose from, especially within Acadia National Park, where skiing is allowed for free on park grounds throughout the winter. Volunteers groom more than 30 miles of Acadia’s carriage roads—which were designed for maximum scenic potential, but also to be gradual enough not to tax horses pulling huge carriages, making them ideal for Nordic skiing. I’d go so far as to say it’s among the best cross-country ski destinations in the country. Visit the Facebook page or Twitter feed of Friends of Acadia for grooming updates in winter. For more about cross-country ski areas in Maine, visit the Nordic skiing website of the trade association Ski Maine.
