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Rechristened Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus as part of Mumbai's nationalist-inspired anti-Raj campaign, this baroque, cathedral-like train station -- still known to everyone as "VT" -- must rank as Mumbai's most marvelous Raj-era monument. India's very first steam engine left this station when it was completed in 1887; today at least a thousand trains leave every day, carrying some 2 1/2 million commuters in and out of the city. Targeted in 2008 as part of a wider attack on the city by a group of terrorists, the station has been undergoing some renovation, and attempts to beef up security mean that there are now armed guards around all the entrances. Don't let that put you off, though -- and don't be alarmed by the sheer number of commuters should you happen to turn up during peak hours. With its vaulted roofs, arches, Gothic spires, flying buttresses, gables crowned by neoclassical sculptures, stone carvings, and exquisite friezes, the terminus is an architectural gem, worth entering to see the massive ribbed Central Dome (topped by a statue of the torch-wielding "Progress") that caps an octagonal tower featuring beautiful stained-glass windows with colorful images of trains and floral patterns. But come, too, for the spectacle of the disparate people, from sari-clad beauties to half-naked fakirs, who make up Mumbai. Get here just before lunch to watch the famous dabba-wallas stream out into the city: A vast network of dabba-wallas transfer some 200,000 cooked lunches, prepared by housewives for their office-bound husbands, and kept warm in identical dabbas (metal lunch containers), through a unique sorting and multiple-relay distribution system; later in the afternoon these empty dabbas are returned to their home of origin. The success of this system (no one gets the wrong lunch) is proof of how well India works, despite its reputation for obstructive bureaucracy. In fact, following a study of this network, U.S. business magazine Forbes gave it a Six Sigma (99.99% accuracy) performance rating, which means that just one error occurs in six million transactions.