6km (3 3/4 miles) south of Ürgüp

At first glance, the character of Mustafapasa (called Sinassos in the past) is defined by its center square, a blink-and-miss-it space for a tea house, a taxi or two, and the lovely Greek Anatolian mansion now serving as the Sinassos Hotel. Stop, look and listen, however, and Mustafapasa's charm will flower before you. The village is a sepia-toned old snapshot, illustrating a time when Greeks and Turks lived effortlessly side by side. Just beyond the square are the late 16th-century Asagi Mosque, with two minarets: one dating to Selçuk times and one a more modern addition, and the Sakir Pasa Medrese, built in the 1800s to serve the village's Turkish sons. Take some time to enjoy the stately Greek houses, all of which are now protected. A few are in use as restaurants or hotels. You may also want to bring your hiking boots, because the surrounding hills -- and particularly the Gomede Valley -- are riddled with hidden churches and chapels.