At this cost-conscious brasserie, the food is simple but flavorful and artfully prepared. Chef Jean-Luc Mengin’s specialties are likely to include dandelion salad with fried bacon and creamy meurotte vinaigrette, veal kidneys following Grandma’s recipe served with homemade späetzle noodles, and matelote of freshwater zander with shallots cooked with local gris de Toule wine. The chef’s wife, Danièle, is one of the few accredited female wine stewards in France. Art Nouveau antiques, many of them crafted in Nancy, fill the dining room. The proprietors also run the wine bar and cellar next door, Vins et Tartines (www.vins-et-tartines.com).