In his classic novel, Moby-Dick, Herman Melville wrote, "Nantucket! Take out your map and look at it. See what a real corner of the world it occupies; how it stands there, away off shore . . ." More than 100 years later, this tiny island 30 miles off the coast of Cape Cod still defines itself, in part, by its isolation. At only 3 1/2 by 14 miles in size, Nantucket is smaller and more insular than Martha's Vineyard. But charm-wise, Nantucket stands alone -- all the creature comforts of the 21st century wrapped in an elegant 19th-century package.

The island has long appealed to wealthy visitors, and the ultrarich are more visible than ever. Locals shake their heads over the changing demographics. "If they can't get a reservation at a restaurant, they buy the restaurant," one islander said. Nevertheless, this is still a terrific spot for a family vacation or a romantic retreat. After all, window-shopping at the island's exclusive boutiques and soaking up the sunshine on the pristine beaches are both free of charge.

The Nantucket we see today is the result of a dramatic boom and bust that took place in the 1800s. The whaling capital of the world, the Nantucket of Melville's time was a bustling international port whose wealth and sophistication belied its size. But the discovery of crude oil spelled doom for the whale-oil industry. Nantucket sank into a severe economic depression until the tourism industry revived it at the end of the 19th century. Stringent regulations have preserved the 19th-century character of Nantucket Town, and today 36% of the island (and counting) is maintained as conservation land.

Nantucket Island's one town, also called Nantucket, hugs the yacht-filled harbor. This sophisticated burg bursts with bountiful stores, quaint inns, cobblestone streets, interesting historic sites, and pristine beaches. Scores of shops and galleries occupy wharf shacks on the harbor. The rest of the island is mainly residential, but for a couple of notable villages. Siasconset (nicknamed 'Sconset), on the east side of the island, is a tranquil community with picturesque, rose-covered cottages and a handful of businesses, including a pricey French restaurant. Sunset aficionados head to Madaket, on the west coast of the island, for the evening spectacular.

The lay of the land on Nantucket is rolling moors, heaths, cranberry bogs, and miles of exquisite public beaches. The vistas are honeymoon-romantic: an operating windmill, three lighthouses, and a skyline dotted with church steeples. Although July and August are still the most popular times to visit the island, Nantucket's tourist season has been lengthened considerably by several popular festivals: the Daffodil Festival in April, Nantucket Harvest Weekend in October, and the month-long Nantucket Noel, the granddaddy of all holiday celebrations in the region. Off season a vacation can be more tranquil, and certainly less expensive. The "Grey Lady's" infamous fog is liable to swallow you whole, but you may well learn to relish the moody, atmospheric weather.

Getting There

By Ferry

Two companies compete for ferry passengers from Hyannis to Nantucket: the Steamship Authority and Hy-Line Cruises, with terminals on opposite sides of Hyannis Harbor. The Steamship Authority is the slightly less expensive option.

From the South Street Dock in Hyannis, the Steamship Authority (tel. 508/477-8600) operates year-round ferry service for cars, passengers, and bicycles to Steamboat Wharf in Nantucket. The Steamship Authority’s fast ferry to Nantucket, MV Iyanough, is for passengers only (no cars). It takes 1 hour and runs four to five times a day. Reservations are highly recommended.

The Steamship Authority’s conventional ferries carry cars as well as passengers and bikes, though car rates are significantly more expensive, and drivers and passengers must also buy individual ferry tickets on top of the charge for vehicles. No advance reservations are required for passengers traveling without cars, but car reservations must be made months in advance.

There's a fee for Steamship Authority parking as well. Don't worry about making parking reservations. The Authority has several lots, with a free shuttle from the farthest locations.

Operating from the Ocean Street Dock in Hyannis, Hy-Line Cruises (tel. 508/228-3949) sail to Straight Wharf on Nantucket. Hy-Line’s high-speed passenger catamaran, the Grey Lady, makes five to six hourly trips per day year-round. Pets are allowed on the ferry, except in the first-class section.

There's a fee for parking and Hy-Line passengers can reserve a space in advance, but it’s not essential: Hy-Line has several lots (a free shuttle serves the off-site lot), and though spaces can fill up in the summer, other companies offer parking nearby for similar rates.

From Harwich Port, Cape Cod: To avoid the summer crowds in Hyannis, you can board a passenger-only ferry to Nantucket run by Freedom Cruise Line (tel. 508/432-8999). Boats leave from Saquatucket Harbor in Harwich Port (702 Route 28, across from Brax Landing). The line makes two or three trips a day in season and one trip per day in the shoulder season. The trip takes 1 hour and 15 minutes. Parking is free for day-trippers. Advance reservations are highly recommended.

Tip: All of the above ferries are equipped with Wi-Fi.

Bringing a car to Nantucket: Given Nantucket’s size and the excellence of its public transportation options, there really is no need to bring a car with you to the island. A round-trip fare on the Steamship Authority car ferry is very expensive, even during the off-season.

If you must bring a car to the island, you need to make reservations months in advance to secure a spot on the conventional ferry. Because of the limited options, have alternative departure dates in mind when you call.

Note: The Steamship Authority charges different rates for different car lengths. You will need to specify the make and model of your car when you make your reservation. Car rates do not include drivers or passengers; you must get separate tickets for each person going to the island.

Arrive at least 1 hour before the ferry departs. Otherwise, your space might be released to standbys. If you arrive without a reservation and plan to wait in the standby line, there is no guarantee you will get to the island that day.

By Air

You can also fly into Nantucket Memorial Airport (tel. 508/325-5300), which is about 3 miles south of Nantucket Road, on Old South Road. The flight to Nantucket takes about 30 to 40 minutes from Boston, 20 minutes from Hyannis, and a little more than an hour from New York City. There is frequent shuttle bus service from Nantucket's airport terminal to town for a small fee.

Cape Air and Nantucket Airlines fly year-round from Hyannis, Boston, Martha’s Vineyard, and New Bedford.

American Airlines, Delta Air Lines, United Airlines, and JetBlue run flights from New York City.

See It All in One Day

In the summer, Hy-Line operates a 1-day round-trip Around the Sound cruise from Hyannis, with stops in Nantucket and Oak Bluffs, Martha’s Vineyard. It’s a full-day expedition, departing at 9:30am and returning around 7:30pm, allowing several hours of exploring at each island. Visit Hy-Line's website or call 800/492-8082 for more information.

Getting Around

Nantucket is easily navigated on bike, moped, or foot, and also by shuttle bus or taxi. If you're staying outside of Nantucket Town, however, or if you simply prefer to explore by car, you might want to bring your own car or rent one when you arrive. Adventure-minded travelers may even want to rent a jeep or other four-wheel-drive vehicle, which you can take out on the sand -- a unique island experience -- on certain sections of the coast (a permit is required). Keep in mind that if you do opt to travel by car, in-town traffic can reach gridlock in the peak season, and parking can be a nightmare.

By Bike & Moped

When I head to Nantucket for a few days, biking is my preferred mode of transportation. The island itself is relatively flat, and paved bike paths abound -- they'll get you from Nantucket Town to Siasconset, Surfside, and Madaket. There are also many unpaved back roads to explore, which make mountain bikes a wise choice when pedaling around Nantucket.

A word of warning to bikers: One-way street signs and all other traffic rules apply to you, too! This law is enforced in Nantucket Town, and don't be surprised if a tanned but stern island policeman requests that you get off your bike and walk. Helmets are required for children 15 and under. Bikers should also remember not to ride on the sidewalks in town, which are busy with pedestrians strolling and exiting shops.

Mopeds and scooters are also prevalent, but watch out for sand on the roads. Be aware that local rules and regulations are strictly enforced. Mopeds are not allowed on sidewalks or bike paths. You'll need a driver's license to rent a moped, and state law requires that you wear a helmet. The following shops rent bikes and scooters (all are within walking distance of the ferries): Nantucket Bike Shop, at Steamboat and Straight wharves (tel. 508/228-1999; www.nantucketbikeshop.com), which rents bikes and scooters; and Young's Bicycle Shop, 6 Broad St., at Steamboat Wharf (tel. 508/228-1151; www.youngsbicycleshop.com), which rents bikes and also does repairs. Bike rentals average $20 to $30 for a full day. Most places renting scooters or mopeds require a valid driver's license and the operator to be 18 or older.

By Shuttle Bus

Inexpensive shuttle buses, with bike racks and accessibility for those with disabilities, make frequent loops through Nantucket Town and beaches, and to outlying spots. For routes and stops, contact the Nantucket Regional Transit Authority (tel. 508/228-7025; http://nrtawave.com), or pick up a map and schedule at the visitor center on Federal Street or the chamber of commerce office on Main Street. The shuttle permits you to bring your clean, dry dog along, too. There's room for two bikes on a first-come, first-served basis. The cost is $2 to $3, and exact change is required.

Shuttle routes and fares are pretty simple. Downtown shuttle stops are located on the corner of Salem and Washington streets (for South, Miacomet, and Airport loops); on Broad Street, in front of the Foulger Museum (for Madaket Loop and Beach Express); and on Washington Street, at the corner of Main Street (for 'Sconset loops). Most shuttles run approximately every 30 minutes for most of the season; from July until Labor Day, the Mid-Island Loop runs every 15 minutes, and the Miacomet Loop every 20 minutes.

  • Airport Loop services Nantucket Airport to the center of town at Washington Street; every 30 minutes, on the hour and half-hour, from 10am to 6pm; the fare is $3.
  • South Loop services the Surfside Beach, Hooper Farm Road, and Pleasant Street areas; every 15 minutes, from 7am to 11:30pm; the fare is $2.
  • Miacomet Loop services the Fairgrounds Road, Bartlett Road, and Hummock Pond areas; every 30 minutes, from 7am to 11:30pm (more frequently during the busiest months of summer); the fare is $2.
  • Madaket Route services Madaket (from Broad St. downtown) via Cliff Road and New Lane; every 30 minutes, from 7am to 11:30pm; the fare is $3 each way.
  • 'Sconset Route 1 services 'Sconset via Polpis Road; every 80 minutes, from 10am to 6pm; the fare is $3 each way.
  • 'Sconset Route 2 services 'Sconset via Old South/Nobadeer Farm and Milestone roads; every 60 minutes, from 7am to 11pm; the fare is $3 each way.
  • Beach Express services Surfside and Jetties beaches (the in-town stop is on Broad St.); every 40 minutes for Jetties Beach, and every 30 minutes for Surfside Beach, from 10am to 5:30pm; the fare is $3 each way to Surfside, $2 each way to Jetties.

By Car & Jeep

I recommend a car if you'll be here for more than a week or if you're staying outside Nantucket Town. However, there are no in-town parking lots; parking, although free, is limited to Nantucket's handful of narrow streets, which can be a problem in the busy summer months. Also, gas is much more expensive on Nantucket than it is on the mainland.

Four-wheel-drive vehicles are your best bet, as many beaches and nature areas are off sandy paths; be sure to reserve at least a month in advance, if you're coming in summer. If you plan on doing any four-wheeling in the sand, you need to get an Over-Sand Permit from the Nantucket Police Department. To drive in the Coskata-Coatue nature area, you need a separate permit from the Trustees of Reservations, at the gatehouse (tel. 508/228-0006). Dogs are not allowed, even in a car.

The following on-island rental agencies offer cars, Jeeps, and other four-wheel-drive vehicles: Hertz, at the airport (tel. 800/654-3131 or 508/228-9421; www.hertz.com); Nantucket Windmill Auto Rental, at the airport (tel. 800/228-1227 or 508/228-1227; www.nantucketautorental.com); and Young's 4*4 & Car Rental, 6 Broad St., at Steamboat Wharf (tel. 508/228-1151; www.youngsbicycleshop.com). A standard car costs about $129 to $139 per day in season; a four-wheel-drive rental is about $199 to $229 per day (including an Over-Sand Permit).

By Taxi

You'll find taxis (many are vans that can accommodate large groups or those traveling with bikes) waiting at the airport and at all ferry ports.  Rates are flat fees, based on one person riding before 1am, with surcharges for additional passengers, bikes, and dogs. The most centrally located taxi stand is at the bottom of Main Street, in front of the Club Car restaurant. A taxi from the airport to Nantucket Town will cost about $15, plus $1 for each additional person. Reliable cab companies on the island include Canty's Cab (tel. 508/228-2888); Chief's Cab (tel. 508/284-8497), which is run by the island's former fire chief; Lisa's Taxi (tel. 508/228-2223); and Val's Cab Service (tel. 508/228-9410). Uber and Lyft also operate in Nantucket.

Visitor Information

For information, contact the Nantucket Island Chamber of Commerce, at Zero Main St., second floor(tel. 508/228-1700; www.nantucketchamber.org).. It's open Mondays through Fridays from 8am to 4pm.

In case of a medical emergency, the Nantucket Cottage Hospital, 57 Prospect St. (tel. 508/825-8100; www.nantuckethospital.org), is open 24 hours.

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