Climbing the copper steps in this historic building to enter Òran Mór, you can tell you are in for a special evening. The vibe is surprisingly down to earth. No white tablecloths or crystal here, and the small handsome bar and attentive service put you at ease. The first course might be marinated grilled baby octopus, or perhaps a Nantucket lobster po’boy atop grilled focaccia. As for the main course, you might find beer-braised pork short ribs with a parsnip puree or a miso-marinated cod with sweet-potato lasagna. Desserts are a sublime specialty: Save room for vanilla cream-filled brioche doughnuts with brown butter and roasted pear puree.