It’s well worth making the excursion just south of the canal to this white-washed, terracotta-tiled restaurant. It’s part of the local wine producers’ Palais des Vins which promotes and sells the wines of Languedoc-Roussillon. Chef Lionel Giraud produces carefully sourced and beautifully presented dishes using top seasonal ingredients. The freshest fish from the coasts of France goes into dishes like lobster cooked on pine cones with ravioli and an Armganac sauce; free range chicken might come cooked in clay with fresh verbena, and there’s always Wagyu beef matured for 60 days. Wines are, as you would expect, exemplary and the sommelier is particularly knowledgeable on local varieties, so tell him your budget and go from there. This is not a cheap option, but it will be a meal to remember.